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I,m about to replace the Pittman arm and all the tie rod ends on my 67 F100. I need to know how to tell what power gear box I have?? The Power-Ford or the Bendix? Where do I look for numbers on it? I gave it a quick look and didnt see any. I have the Pittman arm Power-ford # as C9TZ-3500C and the Bendix Pittman # C7TZ-3590F. Any one know if this is correct?
Check the top of the pitman arm shaft, the plate you can see from the top. If it says Ford, it's a Ford, if it says Bendix, it's a Bendix. At least that's my understanding of it.
The Bendix power box will have 4 bolts to hold the square aluminum cover on, Ford box will have 2 bolts and a steel cover. No matter what box you have you need the pitman arm to that box. The Bendix is a known leaker, hard to get rebuilt, costly and twitchy at speed besides runs hotter than a Ford box. Steering column is shorter on Ford box by 2 plus inches, firewall bracket and left motor perch are different. If your adding power get a Ford box system from a donor.
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Well, my just blew itself APART this morning!!!! Just put a pump on three days ago, now the seals in box went south. Went to leave for lunch today and it's whin'n and pukin'. GREAT!! Check'n my local guy and it looks to be $350 for a reman box!!! OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (it's a Bendix box)
Why didn't I buy a truck with MANUAL steering?? Just figured, fix one part....and the other takes a dump.
Sorry to hear that freightrain. It looks like I have a Bendix as well. It has 4 bolts on the top cover. The shaft seal looks like mine is leaking so I guess its off to NAPA time. I hope I dont have to pull it to install it. Good luck on yours
Are you talking input shaft or sector shaft seal leak? Good luck finding a input shaft seal, I have 2 complete seal kits from Ford less the input seals and this seal kit is no longer available thru Ford. If available $153 each that is why I have a power Bendix box (69K miles) sitting on the shelf with pitman arm.
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I'm putting a box in mine. No just changing seals. My luck the shafts are worn and it would eat itself up again real soon.
I guess 150K miles is not too bad?? The one thing I wondered about this truck....how long will that old box last?? Guess I got 2.5 yrs out of it? I pick it up tomorrow ($316).
Freightrain, at 69K the input seal started to weep so I installed a complete seal kit from Ford. It leaked 8 months later and the box is like new inside. With .0003" clearance with 3 bushings, yes 3/10,000" not 3/1000" you can turn the sector shaft with fingers,after I line bored the custom bushings to final of .0015" for oil clearance. It's (Bendix box) a hope it dosen't leak this time box which isn't how I work in aviation so I switched over to a Ford box, column, mount and motor mount. I also got a spare Ford box, can't wait to see what's inside them. The Bendix is a simple box with a bad input seal design. Check with Mederian Auto Parts in southern Cali, their specality is steering box rebuilding, very high standards and quality. Been told core alone is $150 to $200 for a Bendix box now.
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Ya, got done putting new one on yesterday, except forgot to get new rag joint!! So, get that this morning and I'll be back in business. Once I got that 400 lb leak'n PITA POS out of truck I notice it was a reman unit already!! Geez, wonder how long it really lasted. I've put 45K on truck so far, so it lasted that long. Hope this one last that long(hopefully longer).
Got to take core back this week. Not sure what it's worth, since buddy did not charge me(nice huh?).
Next time...I'll be switching to MANUAL steering!!!! Never had power steering on any trucks/cars I've had....now I know why!
On Bendix boxes many reman exchange charge $150 core, that ups the critter value higher if your adding power or a older truck conversion. Many people don't want the extra trouble of locating and changing column, motor perch pitman and box just to get a Ford power over Bendix. Remans just hope it lasts a year, as posted above my Bendix is on a shelf with perch and pitman because of the input seal leak.
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I got all the arms and tie rod ends replaced under neath and set the toe in at 1/8 with a tape measure and it drives great now. I'm going to take it in tomorrow for a professional alignment and I found out my bendix box is not leaking so now I have to worry about what is because I couldnt find anything leaking while I was under it. Thanks again guys
Alignment shops will take your money, a waste in my book. Cut and stick two razor blades, one in each tire into the tread at the rear, measure with help of a friend then roll forward 1/2 turn. Measure again and set the toe in 1/32" if on radial tires. Been doing it over a million miles without any wear problems due to misalignments the last 32 years. This is with radius arm, I beam bushings, king pins, shocks and tierods in good condition. JMO over the years.
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Thanks Beamer, I took it to my brother in law who is the best mechanic I have ever seen and he didnt have time to do it but he did find a miss I have not been able to find and he gives me his work as I give him mine which is a/c work. (His wife thinks thats important here in Texas) I guess the old my wife and his wife being sisters dosnt hurt or maybe its the he has to see me every holiday thing or the I was his best man and he was mine thing here
I'm not clear on how to do the alignment you mentioned. Would you clarify please?
Thank you.
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Alignment shops will take your money, a waste in my book. Cut and stick two razor blades, one in each tire into the tread at the rear, measure with help of a friend then roll forward 1/2 turn. Measure again and set the toe in 1/32" if on radial tires. Been doing it over a million miles without any wear problems due to misalignments the last 32 years. This is with radius arm, I beam bushings, king pins, shocks and tierods in good condition. JMO over the years.
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