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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Oil Leak...

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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #1  
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Jrs32
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Exclamation Oil Leak...

Hey. I have an Automatic 1993 Ford Ranger Splash with a 3.0L V6. I have an oil leak. It is bad enough to where I have to add a quart every 1-2 days. I'm pretty sure it is the rear main seal. The only other thing it could be is the oil pan gasket. So, my question is EXACTLY what is envolved in changing the rear main seal. Is it a one piece for this truck? Or is it 2? I think I have it but not sure. Here is what I think is needed:

Drain the oil.
Remove the transmission-motor support struts. (I'm not sure if its necessary to remove the transmission)
Then remove the starter and the inpection cover on the front of the transmission housing.
Next, remove the oil pan and oil pump.
Then remove the rear main bearing cap.
Now this is where I get stuck. Is this a 2 piece seal?

Please Help.. any help at all would be greatly appreciated

Thanks!
-Justin
 

Last edited by Jrs32; Sep 5, 2005 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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nightme_02
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Haynes and/or Chilton Manual
 
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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Jrs32
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Originally Posted by nightme_02
Haynes and/or Chilton Manual
I'd really rather not pay for a manual to fix this. It would be awesome if somebody could just help me on here. Thank ou anyway though. I'll use that as a last resort.

-Justin
 
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 05:49 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Jrs32
I'd really rather not pay for a manual to fix this. It would be awesome if somebody could just help me on here. Thank ou anyway though. I'll use that as a last resort.

-Justin
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Stick around someone will be by shortly to answer your question.
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 07:17 AM
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3.0L Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal - Oil Pan

Welcome to FTE! Here's what the Ford Manual has to say:

1993 Ranger 3.0L - Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal

Removal

1. Remove transmission.

NOTE: Clean exterior surface of seal and cylinder block prior to removal of seal.

2. Remove flywheel.

3. Using a sharp awl, punch one hole into the seal metal surface between the lip and block. Screw in the threaded end of Jet Plug Remover T77L-9533-B. Use the jet plug remover to remove seal. Use caution to avoid scratching or damaging oil seal surface.

Installation

1. Apply clean engine oil to outer lips and inner seal edge.

2. Position seal on Rear Main Seal Installer T88L-6701-A. Position tool and seal to rear of engine. Alternate bolt tightening to seat the seal properly. (Three bolts are supplied with Rear Main Seal Installer T88L-6701-A. Engine flywheel bolts may be used if necessary.)

3. Install flywheel.

4. Install transmission.


Regarding the oil Pan Gasket, your gonna need to raise the engine a few inches:

1993 Ranger 3.0L - Oil Pan

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove oil level dipstick.

3. Remove fan shroud (leave over fan).

4. Remove motor mount nuts from frame. Refer to «Section 02-03».

5. Mark and remove distributor assembly from engine.
6. Raise vehicle.

7. Remove low-oil level sensor, remove retainer clip at sensor. Remove electrical connector from sensor.

8. Drain crankcase.

9. Remove starter motor.

10. Remove transmission inspection cover.

11. Remove right-hand axle beam.

CAUTION: The brake caliper must be removed and wired out of the way.

12. Remove oil pan bolts.

13. Using a suitable lifting device, raise the engine approximately two inches.

14. Remove oil pan from the engine.

NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between the transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing to avoid damaging the oil pump pickup tube.

15. Remove oil pan gasket and discard.

Installation

NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt threads before installation.

1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block and oil pan.

2. Apply a 4.0-6.0mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Sealer D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (ESB-M4G92-A) or equivalent to the junction of the rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and junction of the front cover assembly and cylinder block.

3. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-AA (ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A) or equivalent.

4. Position oil pan to cylinder block.

5. Install oil pan attaching bolts and tighten to 12 N-m (9 ft-lb).

6. Install low-oil level sensor connector to sensor and install retainer clip.

7. Lower engine assembly back to original position.

8. Install right-hand axle beam.

9. Install transmission inspection cover.

10. Install starter motor. Refer to «Section 03-06».

11. Lower vehicle.

12. Install fan shroud.

13. Install motor mount nuts.

14. Install distributor assembly in engine.

15. Replace oil level dipstick.

16. Connect battery ground cable.

17. Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.

18. Start engine and check for engine oil leaks.

*Ford has a new "kit" for the 3.0L oil pan gasket, even comes with new oil pan bolts: Recommended 3.0L Vulcan Oil Pan Gasket (PDF)

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #6  
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Actually Yes, that helps a GREAT deal! Thank you very much! I guess here in a couple of days ill give it a try! I'm going to go ahead and change the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. So this should be fun! :-P

Thanks!
-Justin
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:36 AM
  #7  
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seangoodwin
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Blown front cover seal?

Morning everyone. I noticed some oil dripping on the ground from the FRONT of the engine so I cleaned off the engine and crawled underneath. It looks like the Front Cover Seal is actually hanging out and looks like it's ready to fall out. I'm *guessing* its the Front Cover Seal after researching this site. It's right behind the camshaft gear. Looks like it's about 4-5 inches in diameter, maybe an inch wide, with little ridges and a lip on it. I've looked everywhere for a picture of the darn thing but can't find one.

1. Does this sound like the Front Cover Seal?
2. How bad would it be if this pops all the way out?
3. Is it tough to replace? How many hours if all goes well (ha!)?

Thanks!
2000 Ranger 3.0 FF, Auto, 2WD, 115kmi.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 10:20 AM
  #8  
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From: suburban atlanta
The camshaft gear is *inside* the timing cover. The front seal is installed behind the crankshaft pulley, into the front of the timing cover. It *can* be replaced without removing the timing cover, but not easily. It should be about 2.5" in diameter, and about .25" thick (ballpark numbers).
You are supposed to put silicone on the crankshaft keyway if you pull the crankshaft pulley, to prevent oil coming out the hub of the pulley.
You can remove and replace the timing cover without removing the pan & gasket. If you are careful.
tom
 
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