Rough Idling
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
From: Wichita
You need suppresion wires to prevent interference.
"Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition, fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is driven on the street — and damage to some original equipment and modern aftermarket electronic ignition and engine management systems can occur. Solid metal conductor wires cannot be suppressed to overcome EMI or RFI without the addition of current-reducing resistors at both ends of wires."
Read about wires here at Magnecor
"Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition, fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is driven on the street — and damage to some original equipment and modern aftermarket electronic ignition and engine management systems can occur. Solid metal conductor wires cannot be suppressed to overcome EMI or RFI without the addition of current-reducing resistors at both ends of wires."
Read about wires here at Magnecor
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Miami
FYI, just bought Motorcraft OEM plug wires from dealer for $70, compared to about $30 for the Discount Auto set, which is what I bought 4 years/50K miles ago . So hopefully they will last at least 2X as long. Right?
Not yet installed as I am waiting for my code scanner to arrive.
Not yet installed as I am waiting for my code scanner to arrive.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Not only will they last longer, they actually work. The 3.0 and 4.0 motors are very picky about the quality of the plugs and wires. The must be OEM quality. I use NAPA premium wires, which are designed to be identical to OEM, and they work great. Bosch on the other hand does not work so well. They miss and just don't hold up. Autolite is the same as Motorcraft. Those are the only wires you should use. And absolutely never use the "performance" wires.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by ChucksVan
Wide open throttle ... floor it!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Miami
OK - codes pulled. All that came up was 536 Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit not activated during KOER and 538 Insufficient RPM change during KOER Dynamic Response Test/. I did floor it and saw RPM shoot to 6000 RPM for a split second before releasing. Now what?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Miami
Rough idling - failure!
Today did the following:
Changed the spark plug wires - Motorcraft OEM
Replaced the PCV valve
Thoroughly cleaned the IAC
Did the whole decarbon process w/ Seafoam, 20 miles at >3000 RPM & WOT 4/5 times.
No improvement. Stll rough idling and shuddering up to about 1800 RPM
Codes didn't pull - see previous post.
Long day with no results.
Changed the spark plug wires - Motorcraft OEM
Replaced the PCV valve
Thoroughly cleaned the IAC
Did the whole decarbon process w/ Seafoam, 20 miles at >3000 RPM & WOT 4/5 times.
No improvement. Stll rough idling and shuddering up to about 1800 RPM
Codes didn't pull - see previous post.
Long day with no results.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Check all your vacuum lines for cracks, disconected tubes, ect.
Also when was the last time the modulator was changed? You could be sucking in some tranny fluid.
Also when was the last time the modulator was changed? You could be sucking in some tranny fluid.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
The 2 codes above simply mean that you did not do those things at the right time during the test. It should give you a beep indicateing that it is ready for you to do those things.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Miami
Very many thanks to all for your great input. Ran the codes again today, and all that came up was 157 - Mass Air Flow sensor fault, low voltage. So followed one of the MAF theads:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=126093
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
and followed instructions carefully. Bottom line is that the Party Bus seems to be running better. Average MPG prior to this was a dismal 11.2, so let's see what happens.
Thanks again!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=126093
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o> and followed instructions carefully. Bottom line is that the Party Bus seems to be running better. Average MPG prior to this was a dismal 11.2, so let's see what happens.
Thanks again!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Firewalker918
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
2
Mar 29, 2005 09:57 PM
