hello ford folks

I own a 3 l 92. i recently was under the hood wiggling wires. After i was done my van seemed to have more pick up. We went on a short highwya run to the rockies and now my van seems to lack power again. When wiggling wires I found one wire was almost crimped I strtaightened it out. I am thinking that this wire may be broke or something. i am replacing the wires this week. I also was under hood today and found that one of my plugs could be turned by hand. I am thinking this is not normal.

Also my oil pan gasket seems to have whifted in the front out from under the pan. living in Alberta the oil in the sand is great but not in the drive way the Mrs really don't like it.

any ideas how this might have happened? Any help would be great as I am a cabinet maker and not a mechanic.

Please give me some ideas.

Is putting the seafoam in hazordous to ones neighbours . I was looking in the air intake today and well its got carbon build up all over and whats the procedure for putting it in.

Long sorry.


Dan in calgary alberta.

 

Sounds like the plugs and wires need replaced. A little hard to do, but the rewards are worth it. Plus replace the rotor and cap while you are at it.

As for the pan gasket, you are going to need to replace, faily simple on the 3.0.

Usually the 3.0 does not get carbon buildup, but you can go ahead and seafoam it. Just disconect the vacuum hose for the power brakes and suck a can in. After it stalls, let sit for about 10 mins and then drive the hell out of it for about a half hour.

As for the pollution, your neighbors will love you for it.

 

The 3.0 pan gasket replacment is not easy at least not on my 96 don't know if the earlier years made it easier. To remove the pan to replace the gasket you have two options

1. Remove the tranny. (I went this route since it said so in my Ford service manual and I didn't think of route #2 ).

or

2. Remove the intake and loosen the motor mount nuts and jack the engine up by the oil pan and block the engine in the upright position to give you the clearance to clear the crossmember and remove the pan. However when using this route you will also need to remove your heater core hoses due to the fact that you will stretch them if you jack up the engine this high without removing them.

Be sure to use RTV sealant on the gasket and go for the plastic frame rubber gasket and not the cheaper flexible rubber gasket (the factory choice) since its hard to work with and IMO its not as good of a gasket.

 

pan bolts loosened from V6 vibration. quick fix without removal of pan that works abt 50% of time is to loosen the pan bolts further, coat old rubber gasket with Permatex "Ultra Blue" or "Right Stuff" RTV with high adhesion factor, put good coat on on section slipped out, put a couple drops of Permatex "Blue medium strenth thread holder on each bolt threads, shove and hold gasket in alignment, tighten from center bolts out to ends, torque to 105 inch pounds or 8.5 ft pounds max, this is an aluminum pan, overtorque and pan is permanently damaged, undertorque and gasket will slip back out and leak, no ratchet guessing on this one.

check the pvc valve and replace if past 30k or questionable operation, may be another cause of blown oil pan gasket

i was lazy when i serviced my transfer case, tightened steel drain plug with nylon washer seal into aluminum case with wrench and guessed at tightness, didn't want to overtighten into aluminum case threads, found a seep on drain plug and case this weekend, case almost empty after 2k miles, torqued with torque wrench to specs, seep leak gone.
lucky i saw the seep while checking exhaust, $500 out the window and a pain to find new one and replace

take the Aero out in the farmers fields plains outside of town and do the Seafoam Molson soak into hot engine for at least an hour or 4 Molson beers, then run her hard after warmup, wide open throttle upshifts 5-10 times and 60 mph + cruises for 20 miles, by the time you get home oil fog will be gone, just a cloud over the wheat stubble fields.
good for the valves, valve guides, pistons, combustion chambers, ring packs.
note: Labatt's can be substituted with same effects.

designated driver recommended for Molson soak