M5OD strange trouble
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 25
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M5OD strange trouble
I have most of the bugs worked out of my 1990 F-150 supercab 5.0 but there is a strange, intermittent problem with the M5OD transmission. Sometimes when I shift into neutral and immediately let the clutch out, it acts like it is still in gear. The engine stalls and there is a popping noise like the trans is popping out of gear. Also, today I had the truck in reverse and tried to back up and it was acting like I had the parking brake securely set and the wheels blocked. It wouldn't budge but the engine was straining and when I got out of the truck, I could smell the clutch. Got back in and drove it forward a few feet and tried again and it worked perfectly. What's going on here?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 559
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From: South Carolina
Sounds like it might be a problem with the shift forks. A damaged roll pin or bent fork might leave the transmission in gear, or stuck between two gears. This could cause a grind as the gear is still partially in, or a bind if two gears are selected at one time. It is easy to examine and service the forks. Remove the carpet, and the trans tunnel cover plate. This exposes the top of the transmission. Put the trans in first gear, and remove the bolts for the top plate. Remove the shift tower/top plate and examine the shift forks. They shoud be solidly pinned to the shift rails, and not chewed up or bent. While the top is off, press the clutch and try manipulating the shift hubs to check for binding there. I believe the forks, pins, and entire tower are available as replacements, though you may need to get them aftermarket.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 559
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From: South Carolina
No - that's the best part of the deal. If you remove the carpet there is a large plate that covers the top of the transmission tunnel. It's bolted in place, and sealed with mastic - you have to yank on it once or twice once all the bolts are out. This will expose the entire top of the transmission so you can take the shift tower off.
You'll have to remove the shifter to do this. There is a rod and nut fastener that can be confusing. After removing the shift boot screws, pull the boot up. You'll see a threaded rod and a nut on the base of the shifter. Remove the nut from the threaded rod, and thread it onto the OPPOSITE side of the rod. Tighten it until it removes the rod. It's like magic.
Before you remove the shifter tower, be sure to put the trans in first gear. It makes it easier to R&R the tower when everything is in 1st.
You'll have to remove the shifter to do this. There is a rod and nut fastener that can be confusing. After removing the shift boot screws, pull the boot up. You'll see a threaded rod and a nut on the base of the shifter. Remove the nut from the threaded rod, and thread it onto the OPPOSITE side of the rod. Tighten it until it removes the rod. It's like magic.
Before you remove the shifter tower, be sure to put the trans in first gear. It makes it easier to R&R the tower when everything is in 1st.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3
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Success! My thanks, Cheggie, for taking the time to look at this thread. Followed your instructions to a T. Once I had the top of the tranny off, it was plain as day that the 1st to 2nd shift fork was completed gone. Everything else checked out okay, and after a drain and refill, I put it all back together, and it's working like it's new. Just a small note to end on: the transmission shop where I live (there's only one in town) told me that the transmission would have to come out to replace shift forks....about $700 to $1,000--obviously a complete lie. My total cost with Cheggie's help: just over a hundred for new shift fork and transmission fluid. Thanks again.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1
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thank you!!!
thanks cheggie I have the same problem in my 95 f150 4x4 i6 . ive been pulling whats left of my hair out trying to figure out if i could fix the 1st and 2nd gear fork without pulling the tranny out. saved me alot of hairache, he,he.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Grove City, PA USA
Be aware that when the shift fork wears all the abrasive metal particles are now running around in the transmission. I bought a 93 and found that the forks were worn almost 1/2 way through. Ended up replacing all the bearings in the transmission. If you flush it out several times you may be ok.
Thought you might want to know.
Thought you might want to know.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 559
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From: South Carolina
Not sure - I just heard that this was the "right" way to do it. I've done it both ways, neutral and first, and it seems to work easier in first. Because you're separating two parts that have to be in sync, you have to make sure you have everything lined up for reassembly.
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