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Well folks, the clutch fork is installed. Upon removal of the transmission I noticed right away that I didn't have to do this job. The old clutch fork is made out of the same guage steel that the new one is, but is slightly different. I don't see how it would have made a difference in the long run. Both appear to be structurally equal in strength. I don't regret doing it because I lubed all the contact areas with a light touch of brake caliper slide grease and now the pedal effort is greatly reduced. Much better feel on the pedal. I also was pleased to find a solid mass flywheel, a completly dry flywheel seal, and a dry turbo pedastal as well.
On the clutch disc the friction material is barely worn, thick as new. I didn't even take the clutch apart. Mostly because when I got the transmission out, I realized that I didn't have a clutch alignment too large enough to get it reset. So I left it alone. I relubed the pilot bearing, it was in perfect shape. I was struck with how large the hub springs are on the disc. Those springs have to be wound with 1/4" wire. And there's another spring down the middle of each one too. There's three spring packs in the hub for a total of six springs. Able to take some serious shock loads.
This picture is for fun. It's obvious which transmission goes into the truck. The other one is a junker that came out of an old VW Dasher. I don't even bother with the tranny jack when I put them in! LOL.
Another view for size comparison purposes.
Man that sucks is doing it on the ground. On a lift I leave the drive shafts connected and slide it back whole, four hrs no rush. Too bad you not around here I'd let you use a rack.
My fork is identicle. I saved the new one for an emergency. Piece of mind mean alot. Don't want any problems pulling that fiver.
Ummmm, you didn't say so, but I assume you didn't go through all the trouble of getting that far into it and not install a new release (or throw-out) bearing, even if the old one was pristine (which they never are unless greasable).
Ummmm, you didn't say so, but I assume you didn't go through all the trouble of getting that far into it and not install a new release (or throw-out) bearing, even if the old one was pristine (which they never are unless greasable).
I KNOW you did!
Pop
It was in like new condition, but it was replaced anyway.
Man that sucks is doing it on the ground. On a lift I leave the drive shafts connected and slide it back whole, four hrs no rush. Too bad you not around here I'd let you use a rack.
My fork is identicle. I saved the new one for an emergency. Piece of mind mean alot. Don't want any problems pulling that fiver.
You leave the shafts connected???? Do you drop the carrier bearing so there is enough give? I never even considered leaving them on.
It does suck working without a lift, but my shop is too small to consider installing them and the concrete floor is too cracked for me to trust that they would hold. The building was made in the 1920's I think. Very old. The only reason that I have stayed there is the rent is VERY reasonable and it's public knowledge of where I can be reached if thier VW needs repair. I can get my truck in and nothing more. Or three VW's and just enough room to work on them.
Upon removal of the transmission I noticed right away that I didn't have to do this job.
See on the new fork how the external bracing extends to the right an extra 2" or so. That's the added material that keeps the fork from bending at the big end of the elongated "D" hole.
Quik I've got one piece shafts. I disconnect them from the diffs and leave them on the t-case. Strap it to the trans jack and slide it back.
cookie88 I couldn't see enough difference between the two when I changed my clutch. On the stock fork the elongated hole is rolled but not on the new one. I just kept it for a spare.
Quik I've got one piece shafts. I disconnect them from the diffs and leave them on the t-case. Strap it to the trans jack and slide it back.
cookie88 I couldn't see enough difference between the two when I changed my clutch. On the stock fork the elongated hole is rolled but not on the new one. I just kept it for a spare.
Oh, ok. I knew that something had to be disconnected. I couldn't see much difference either. I was expecting something made of a much thinner grade of steel. Oh well, at least I can rest easy now, I'll not have to pull the trans for many years to come. Even though it's a very easy job. You should try a 97 Passat auto. The entire drive train has to come down.
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