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Doin' my 4" exhaust install tomorrow. Anybody got any idea if installing the muffler in the "quiet direction" (gills facing into the exhaust) significantly raises EGTs?
I'm gonna put a mild chip (40hp or so for towing) in the truck. I don't really want a loud exhaust, but I also don't want to thwart the purpose of the 4", less restriction and lower EGTs.
i just installed my 4'' last night, 300% easier then i had thought!
i put my muffler on so that the louvers are facing away from the exhaust. it lets the exhaust flow better (you got a exhaust to lower EGT's, didnt you?) the directions said that louvers facing exhaust flow would dampen the sound, make it quieter, but it would be approximately 1/2 dB louder inside cab. the way i had it, it would let the sound escape (thats why i bought the system, sound) and it was supposed to make it 1/2 dB QUIETER in cab. really nice in my opinion, nice sound outside, noticeably faster turbo spool up (spools rapidly under light throttle) and it is quieter so my mom wont complain and moan about the "loud stinky diesel" smell. in my opinon, put the muffler like i did, it doesnt make it louder until you really get into it, who wouldnt love that sound anyway! at cruising speed, it is much quieter then stock, but you notice it is a deeper tone.
Thanks Strokin_it. Good to know it's not too loud and I didn't have any idea that quieter outside = louder inside. I've only got the exahust and the sonnax left to do. Then the chip.
yeah, what system did you get? on my MBRP instructions, it gave the two options, then they described what each would do. i dont think the reversed way would hurt too much flow, but with how i have it now, i dont see how it can "muffle" the tone. but its good now, i love it!
yes, i HEARD that ansa is the same type of pipe with just different badging or whatever. dont argue with me, just for sakes sake. i cut the stock system off in three sections, right after the muffler, right before the transmission cross member (had to cut on an angle, the standard saw-zall blade is 1/2'' too short, so i had to use a long one) be careful not to poke through the floorboard with the sawzall, if you choose to use that method. i cut the nipple off of the rear-ward most exhaust hanger (aft tire), because it made it alot easier to push off. the others were able to be pushed apart no problema.
once you get the labor-intensive turbo-downpipe clamp off (odd position kneeling on engine ) you have to most likely pry the clamp off at the three slits, (youll see what i mean) and then the pipe will magically fall to the floor. then put the new downpipe up, i used a bungee cord between the two frame rails to hold it up just in front of the frame rails, as i insisted on doing this project myself. then i climbed back up and held the down pipe on the turbo, get the clamp on there so it will not let the pipe fall. DONT tighten it. then slide the mid pipe on that, then the extension pipe, depending on cab model. i have a crew cab long bed so i didnt need to cut anything. install the muffler, while putting on pipe clamps as you go. remember not to tighten anything. you have to fish the tail pipe up inward LEFT of the right shock (Between the two, well at least mine did). once you get everything adjusted, tighten, beginning at the turbo and commence your way back. i took my dad out last night for a 10:30 PM-neighborhood-wakeup-sound-test, and when i started up the truck this morning, i was admiring my pretty tip when i touched it and it wobbled down almost to the ground. so i went back and re-torqued everything. make sure to do this so your exhaust stays where you want it! good luck! if you have problems, PM me, this stuff is fresh in my head
I installed the muffler, on my MBRP exhaust, with the gills facing to the rear. They were in a staggered pattern to swirl the exhaust as it leaves for a better scavenging effect. I like the sound of the big exhaust, especially when you "lay into it". Has the "choppy" turbo flutter at an idle with a slightly deeper tone.
I ended up mounting the muffler with the gills facing backward (least amount of resistance) and it sounds good. Definitely a little throatier, but not obnoxious at all.
I ran into a couple of problems:
1) My ANSA Silverline was missing a clamp that was supposed to have a hanger welded on it. Instead they gave me an extra normal clamp.
2) The first pipe downstream of the downpipe is touching one of the bolts on the tranny crossmember. I don't like that at all and I'm hoping the hanger clamp they shorted me will solve that problem.
Overall fit and finish of the ANSA Silverline seemed good. Downpipe seemed to fit up fine. The 5" tip tends to stick out a little far for my liking (even though I've got it fully seated) so I may cut the pipe a little shorter.
Recip saw made the whole job a lot easier. Thanks for the tips guys!!!
cool, there is a hanger that connects the downpipe to the mid pipe (pipe that goes across the tranny x-member) that should have an odd looking hanger welded to the clamp. it pulls the exhaust pipe up and towards the right frame rail. did you go and retorque everything again?
Yeah, everything's torqued down. One of the midpipes had a hanger and I used that, but there's still two rubber hangers that aren't used.
The instructions shows one of clamps with a single hanger on it (in addition to the T-hanger one).
I think they just made a mistake when the packed it. I'll call ANSA tomorrow.
It's not going anywhere, but I just want it tied in as much as possible. I think the additional clamp/hanger should cure the contact with the bolt.