You’re welcome.
Maybe this will help.

 

You said that the Head Lights worked, and if they still do and you have no power at the stop fuse then the stop fuse has a bad socket or you test light is not grounded good.

 

subford, I appreciate the diagrams, they are a big help. Just for your info, the headlights are fed directly by the battery. Up at the top center of your diagram, there is a branch circuit that says "To Fuse Link H White to Light Switch". This is the circuit that feeds the headlights on a black/orange wire, so the headlight test would not be a good one.

But, if you look down at the fuse box, there is a fuse that says "To Light Switch". This fuse feeds the tan/white wire that does go to the headlight switch, but only feeds the running lights, and the dash lights.

 

Franklin2
Yes, you are right and to think I just finished drawing it too. But he did say that the running lights worked and also the turn signals. So there is power to Ignition Switch for the turn signals. I am betting that his test light was not grounded or as you say it could be a bad Fuse Block. I will try to be more precise next time.

 

ok, test light was grounding correctly, im sure of this. If im reading this correct fuse block 1- 8- 10- 12- 16 should NOT work until key is in acc mode or ON position? shouldnt the hazards word even if the key is off? but as earlier i have not got or gotten to the dome lights. its been the least of my worries! But key switch on or off there is no power to fuse block 1. I did not test any others, other than #5 i believe, witch is the turn signals and running lights,,, I am possitive there is no power to fuse #1, i also have no power to dome light or when door is open no buzzer, leave the key in t he ignition and open the door no warning buzzer, sorry I took the night off to spend time with my 2 year old foster son. i will dig in deeper tomarrow and let you know. I do appreciate the help. i d hate to let my new rig burn up in flames..

 

Not correct. Numbers 1, 8, 10, 12 ,16 are fed battery power all the time.




That line going across the top of the diagram above is battery power. If you follow it over, you will get to splice s102. That is where the ignition switch gets it's power. The line goes on around and starts feeding the fuses. All these shown are hot all the time.

If the diagram showed it, there would be some wires coming out of the ignition switch to feed different things. One of them would go to the fuse box and feed the key on fuses. Diagrams are easier to read though, if you break them up into little pieces.

The reason for wanting to know what else is working, is to logically trouble shoot the location of the problem. From the diagram above, we can assume the battery, and all the connections including the fusible link are good all the way over to s102. We can assume this because your key on stuff works, like the truck runs and the wipers work, etc.

If all those fuses are dead in the box, then you might have a problem in the yellow wire going from s102 to the fuse box. And you also might still have a problem in the fuse box itself. If some of those circuits work, then the problem is definitely in the fuse box.

 

Please tell us again what is working now.
Do the headlights lights when you pull out the ****?
Can you start the engine?
Will the horn toot?
You have not unhooked anything since you started the thread have you?
Have you had any sparks or smoke since you started talking with us?

 

I 2nd that request. We can get confused with long threads with lots of discussion. And I am sure you can too since you are doing all the work on the truck. It never hurts to drop back and start over if you get lost and find yourself down a troubleshooting dead end.

 

i agree with you both, at least at your end im sure you answer many more threads than just mine. To answer most of the question- i am now driving it to work. with the price of gas and my van only getting 6 miles to the gallon, oh yeah. It runs good, the things that dont work are the dome lights the speed control and the (rear defrost but i think those wires have been cut), thats the least of my worries. I did jump from fuse #5 to #1 and the break lights now work as well as all other lights, with the exception of the dome light, I have not yet checked the bulbs or any other thing with that one. Oh and the hazads do not work. The rear window motor seems like it runs on battery power the way it lugs down ,you need to help the window up to get it to close all the way.to my knowledge its in good working order for a rig that has sat for 1.5 years. NO sparks, flames, exlposions :0) . Now if your warmed up and ready for a challenge i could tell about the van, its a quadravan. just joking. i think that covers it

 

If you jumper 1 to 5 you are now powering everything though the Ignition Switch, the Ignition Switch may not last very long with the added current though it. I think something cut or ate though the big yellow wire from S102 to the fuse block or it has bad connection to the fuse block.

 

He might be alright, since he only added the brake lights.

But if you wanted a temporary safe solution, you could jump the brake/hazard light light fuse that is dead, to something like the horn fuse, or the cigarette lighter fuse. If you pulled one of those alternate fuses, and found the hot side terminal, put the jumper on the opposite side of the fuse. That way your brake light circuit would be protected by the fuse that you just "scabbed" onto. If you hooked them into the cigarette lighter fuse, and something happened to the brake circuit, the cigarette lighter fuse would blow.

I know this sounds like it would be a little bit "cobbled" together, but it would work and get you through.