split rims
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 714
Likes: 78
From: Salem
Yes, the rims I purchased are for up to F350 trucks. No help with the larger trucks. If anyone is interested, I purchased my rims at Ed's Tire Factory in southern Oregon. Ed's is a local/regional chain of privately owned tire shops.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
I think that's right. Rims that do not have DOT cert somewhere on them seem to be sold for "offroad" use only.
I know from the split rim fiasco that I had at the local tire dealer that they categorically WILL NOT put tires on illegal or unsafe (in their opinion) wheels. Costco for example will not even put oversize tires on cars & trucks unless they were available from the OEM.
Everybody is worried about liability these days I guess....
Regards,
./Rick
I know from the split rim fiasco that I had at the local tire dealer that they categorically WILL NOT put tires on illegal or unsafe (in their opinion) wheels. Costco for example will not even put oversize tires on cars & trucks unless they were available from the OEM.
Everybody is worried about liability these days I guess....
Regards,
./Rick
Originally Posted by bobj49f2
I am assuming DOT rims mean they meet some kind of DOT certification. Do they actually have a stamp on them? Is there a place to look to find the stamp?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
I don't think it is the liability issue. It is the issue of tires blowing up on them while inflating and a workman's comp issue. Most places are not set up to do a split rim ( in a cage). I've seen split rims blow up in those cages and it isn't pretty inside the cage.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
The person at Les Schwab http://www.lesschwab.com/ , told me that some years back that they broke some widowmakers down for a customer. They told him that they were unable to put them back together for him because their insurance company wouldn't allow them to put them back together. They gave him the wheels back and he took them home and had one of the people on his farm assemble them and put them on the truck. The guy was killed when one of the wheels came apart when airing it up on the truck. The family sued Les Schwab Co for negligence and they settled out of court. Les Schwab now does not allow condemned (unsafe) wheels out of their shop. Sounds like they don't want to be liable for someone getting injured or killed. I was convinced. Maybe I could've insisted that they give me back my rusted 2 piece split rims. I didn't want them back anyway. They recycled them for me. The rebuilt rims weren't that much money actually. About $225 each including the powder coating, shipping, etc.
The bad thing about the splits is that they can come apart while you're driving down the road. That would not ba a good thing.
The bad thing about the splits is that they can come apart while you're driving down the road. That would not ba a good thing.
Originally Posted by bigredtruckmi
I don't think it is the liability issue. It is the issue of tires blowing up on them while inflating and a workman's comp issue. Most places are not set up to do a split rim ( in a cage). I've seen split rims blow up in those cages and it isn't pretty inside the cage.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
Even if you can find someone to work on the split rims, I recommend getting rid of them.
I was referred to a local truck tire shop that works on everything. The owner walked with a pronounced limp; he told me that he missed 18 months work when when of those split rims seriously injured his leg many years ago. He also pointed out a smile-shaped mark on the 20 foot ceiling overhead, where one had left it's mark. His shop works on a lot of truck tires, including the lock-ring wheels made by Bud and others. He said that those wheels are safe and stable once they are fully inflated (in a cage). The split wheels, mine were made by Firestone, can come apart in use, non-use, deflation, etc.
I think that the military liked them because they could be taken apart and put together with muscle and hand tools.
Though wheel accidents are uncommon, I did not want to play that lottery, so I got some modern wheels and tires.
I was referred to a local truck tire shop that works on everything. The owner walked with a pronounced limp; he told me that he missed 18 months work when when of those split rims seriously injured his leg many years ago. He also pointed out a smile-shaped mark on the 20 foot ceiling overhead, where one had left it's mark. His shop works on a lot of truck tires, including the lock-ring wheels made by Bud and others. He said that those wheels are safe and stable once they are fully inflated (in a cage). The split wheels, mine were made by Firestone, can come apart in use, non-use, deflation, etc.
I think that the military liked them because they could be taken apart and put together with muscle and hand tools.
Though wheel accidents are uncommon, I did not want to play that lottery, so I got some modern wheels and tires.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Thanks to all for your advice and suggestions. I've run out of warm weather and will have to wait until spring to deal with new tires and/or wheels. More details on the options for replacement 16 inch wheels, dually for the rear, that have the OEM look, would be appreciated.
My F350 is a PA farm truck - and I would guess, based on the "frozen" state of the lug nuts, that the wheels haven't been removed for 15+ years. A naive question: The Ford Parts book lists right hand and left hand lugs. If this is the case I would assume then that the right/passenger side lugs are removed counter clockwise and the left/driver’s side lugs come off clockwise. Is this correct? Thanks, Tony
My F350 is a PA farm truck - and I would guess, based on the "frozen" state of the lug nuts, that the wheels haven't been removed for 15+ years. A naive question: The Ford Parts book lists right hand and left hand lugs. If this is the case I would assume then that the right/passenger side lugs are removed counter clockwise and the left/driver’s side lugs come off clockwise. Is this correct? Thanks, Tony
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
Correct; the lefthand threads (CCW to tighten) are on the driver's side. I've seen some left hand thread studs that are marked on the end facing you with an "L" (underneath that rust).
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,984
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
Correct. They are marked L and R and are still used on modern trucks. I've purchased replacements at the local IH dealership and at a local trailer equipment dealership. They use the exact same design as was used on my '52. Even the dually stud adapters and outer nuts are the same. Stu
Last edited by truckdog62563; Oct 27, 2005 at 08:12 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Thanks.
I've been treating the fronts with PB Blaster and heat for a month or so and there's still no movement. I'd prefer not to twist the studs off so I'm going to give them another week or so until the high torque efforts.
I've been treating the fronts with PB Blaster and heat for a month or so and there's still no movement. I'd prefer not to twist the studs off so I'm going to give them another week or so until the high torque efforts.
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,984
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
What worked best for me, after soaking and heating for a long time like you have, was the use of an inexpensive (under $10) special Budd type wrench that allows you to use your biggest hammer to break them loose. It's got the 1 1/2 hole to go around the nut and has a three inch tongue on it. The tip of the tongue is beefy to take the hammer's impact. As I sit here looking at it, it's made by Ken Tool and has a number TX9 and 30609. I bought it at the Farm and Home store. And hitting it hard lets you work off your anger. From my experience, I sure wouldn't worry about breakage. Unless it's your knuckles. Stu
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
Still not answered is are they Wide 6 or 8 lug?
For duallys Ford had 17.5 tubeless 6 lug on mid 70's F350's; I went back a few days late for a set on a 73; it was already crushed. I believe that 16 and 17" were both stock on the 56?? My 54 F350 still has the 17" original widow makers, no problems getting them broken down at a large truck shop.
I get the lugs broken loose with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 4' pipe helper. I use a 1" bar on my friends 50's eras F600-900 fleet.
For duallys Ford had 17.5 tubeless 6 lug on mid 70's F350's; I went back a few days late for a set on a 73; it was already crushed. I believe that 16 and 17" were both stock on the 56?? My 54 F350 still has the 17" original widow makers, no problems getting them broken down at a large truck shop.
I get the lugs broken loose with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 4' pipe helper. I use a 1" bar on my friends 50's eras F600-900 fleet.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,867
Likes: 3,100
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I had trouble getting the stud nuts off of my F-4. The first one I applied heat to I applied a lot of heat to and it twisted as I tried to take it off. That one I heated the entire stud. The next one, and every other after that, I heated just the base of the stud and it came off without a problem. I went back to the first one, the twisted one, and did the same, that one came right off too. I assume the stud was "welded" to the rim by the rust and once I expanded the stud with the heat it broke the bond. Like I said, I did all of the studs in this manner and they came off very nicely.
