I want to try this project to keep the oil scrren and just to see how much crud is in the botom of the pan. The manual assumes the "mechanic" knows a lot when I read about the procedure.

It looks like I have about 3 to 4 inches of clearance over the tie rods and supports. Does the pan drop right down once the bolts are removed

I remove the starter first correct?

Any advise would be appreciated


my engines the 239 flathead V8 in a 53

Todd

 

Hello Todd, Yes I would drop the starter for sure. While it's out pull the band off the back and look at the condition of the brushes. Depending on how much you want to get into the project. You could check the main and rod bearing clearance with Plasti-gage. If you find the pan has a lot of crud in it I would pull the intake also and clean out the valve galley. I pulled apart a Flathead 6 a few weeks ago for spare parts, and when I pulled the pan it was loaded. Also under the valve covers it was also loaded with crud. The worst buildup I have ever seen in my 50 years of working on engines. But be aware, if you loosen any crud and don't get it cleaned out well enough it could plug the oil passages and cause a real problem. Had that happen to me on a SBC it caused a lifter to plug and flatened a cam lobe. What I'm suggesting is if you start be prepaired to do whatever is necessary to get it cleaned upreal good inside. Yes I agree most auto repair manuals only give you enough information to get yourself into trouble.

Good Luck
Rod

 

Obviously, disconnect the battery cables, remove starter for access to pan bolts. Unbolt the front mount bolts and lift motor, put blocks under mount and remove jack.Get as much clearance as you can without damaging anything. Unbolt pan and drop it. Watch out for the fan blade hitting anything. Use common srnse and be safety minded at all times!

Barry


50 F-1

 

On most V-8s you'll need at least ~ 4" of clearance under the pan to get it out. I'd be real hesitant to recommend you start cleaning out sludge unless you're doing a complete rebuild and have the block boiled and brushed for the reasons 51FF stated. Cleaning out the pan itself isn't a problem it's the sludge in the block getting disturbed that can do more damage than if you leave it alone as long as it has good oil pressure.

 

thanks for the comments all.

I know what your saying about the potential problems due to loosening up sludge.

I'm also concernred about the oil screen though. If the oil filter screen plugs up due to the pan NOT being dropped., I'm in the same kind of potentail trouble as dropping the pan to clean.

My old timer neighbor gave my the advice of keeping the screen clean. He says he's seen flaties get oil starved due to the screen clogging from cleaning neglect.

I'm more confused what to due now than before!!

 

I'm sure he's right, the older oils sludged up really bad and plugged pickup screens were an issue. I've not played with flatheads, they were before my time, so I don't know what a flatty guy would recommend. Is the pump screen removable from the pump? Last summer my brother came down here to pick up an 80's Ford pickup truck. The valve covers were leaking oil rather badly so he wanted to replace the gaskets before driving it to NY. When he pulled the covers he found that the oil return galleys were filled with sludge that was holding the oil in the valve covers causing the leakage.
He knew the dangers, but decided he needed to open the passages, so he used a shop vac to suck up the sludge as he scraped it free, and changed the oil and filter twice afterwards to try and get out anything that fell into the pan. Sure enough about 4 hrs into the trip the oil pressure suddenly fell to 0 (good thing the truck has a gauge rather than a light) He coasted the truck into a plaza parking lot where he and my other brother who was following just in case he had a problem spent the night with flashlights and basic tools pulling down the oilpan and replacing the oil pump with one they bought the next morning when the closest parts store opened. The pickup screen was plugged with fresh sludge.

 

I have been thinking about this also. I am going to start by running normal oil for a few thousand miles. Changing the oil every 1000 miles or so. Then move to a high detergent standard type oil for a few changes. Then see how it looks.

 

Actually the existing sludge gets to the consistancy of old pudding and just stays put unless disturbed so it's less likely you'll end up with a plugged pickup anytime soon unless you disturb the sludge.

 

Todd, what I did on my 51 226 was I removed the large cover on the bottom of my oil pan and checked the screen. The screen was clean so I took a can of air and blew the oil off of it. I then took a mechanics mirror and put it up in the screen. Using a drop light and the mirror I was able to see the pan interior wasen't loaded with crud. Being kind of a pedal to the medal kind of guy I dumped a can of motor flush in her and run it a few minutes and changed oil. I then put two quarts of Mobil1 in her and finished filling it with regular oil. The Synethic oil is an excellent cleaner, I sense have changed oil several times, And its still running ok.
This is just what I did, I'm not suggesting you do it. That would be your own decision.

Rod

 

I've seen engine so sludged up that the moving parts, like the rockers, were buried in the sludge. I'd try to clean the pan out if that were my engine. Once that's clean, I'd run a quart of Rislone through the engine to get the lifter valley cleaned.

I've heard that those old flatheads were pretty tough engines.

 

You might want to pull the intake manifold first (if you've never had it off), if there is sludge there, it will be worse in the pan.

Do you have the truck-type pan with the large circular plate? If so, that eliminates most of the need to pull the whole pan, if all you want to see is the amount of sludge. It's there to allow you to clean the screeen.

 

Unfortunately my pan doesn't have the plate-it's all or nothing as far as the pan

I'll try the intake first-good advice!

what's Rislone? never heard of it.

 

On my '52, I didn't need to touch anything on the motor except pull the starter, and jack the truck up by the frame, to get enough clearance between the pan and the front axle/tie rod. The pan just dropped out after that (but depends what exhaust you have -- it may need to be dropped). I also have the "car" pan with no plate.

 

Click this link to go to the Rislone web site.

Paul