Choke Not Coming Off
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Choke Not Coming Off
I'm a new member here and have appreciated the wealth of excellent knowledge and help available.
I have a 76 F150, 390, C6, and recently acquired, slightly used Holley Truck Avenger 670. I used to have a 750 double pumper = too big . My electric choke is not coming off. It works great on startup, then opens slightly (RPM's drop from 1600 to 1400), but I have to get out and manually push the linkage down to get the RPM's to drop to 800. Then if I rev it again, the RPM's shoot back up and stay there.
I have the choke hooked to the ignition switch from under the dash(hot in RUN), but have also tried hooking it directly to the + of the starter solenoid. It won't work in either place.
Did I burn it up? I haven't taken it apart, but wouldn't know what to look for if I did (I'm a manual choke fan).
Thank you so much in advance for your help; you guys are great.
I have a 76 F150, 390, C6, and recently acquired, slightly used Holley Truck Avenger 670. I used to have a 750 double pumper = too big . My electric choke is not coming off. It works great on startup, then opens slightly (RPM's drop from 1600 to 1400), but I have to get out and manually push the linkage down to get the RPM's to drop to 800. Then if I rev it again, the RPM's shoot back up and stay there.
I have the choke hooked to the ignition switch from under the dash(hot in RUN), but have also tried hooking it directly to the + of the starter solenoid. It won't work in either place.
Did I burn it up? I haven't taken it apart, but wouldn't know what to look for if I did (I'm a manual choke fan).
Thank you so much in advance for your help; you guys are great.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
If you have a decent quality digital multi-meter, check the ohms across the choke coil. If it shows it as open, or some rediculous amount of resistance, then it's shot. I don't have a spec in front of me right now, but a good one should be in the range of 10-50ohms.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Northeast LA
This is the exact thing that happend to me when i rebuilt my slightly used 4160. It was the Fast idle cam. there was supposed to be a little weight on the end of it to make it come down when the the fast idle screw was off of it. But when i gave it the gas it would kick the choke up and it wouldn't come back down until i pushed it down because the weight was not on there, that and the choke housing needed to be cleaned some . the choke housing was the one piece i did not soak in the the carb cleaner bucket. anyway new fast idle cam 9$ and some spray carb cleaner and it falls just like it is supposed to! (the fast idle cam and the rpms) i hope this helps some just check it out.
jason
77 f100
jason
77 f100
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Thanks!
I cleaned the choke and linkage and hooked it to a different wire. It seems to work better now - at least it stays at curb idle now. I'll keep checking and make sure everything works. Thanks guys!!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Fredericton NB, Canada
Your choke should run off your alternator. I too had enough fooling around with my electric choke, so I spend $10 and converted it to manual.
-Matt
-Matt
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> but have also tried hooking it directly to the + of the starter solenoid.
> It won't work in either place.
I guess this thread is new enough to post info I found out fooling with mine.
I put a Holley 4160c on my truck and hooked the choke up like you did. I thought I had a choke problem and went to check the voltage, 9.# volts. I would have thought that it would be 12 volts, I guess the voltage is reduced to 9 volts for a coil set up. You might try a different starter relay.
> It won't work in either place.
I guess this thread is new enough to post info I found out fooling with mine.
I put a Holley 4160c on my truck and hooked the choke up like you did. I thought I had a choke problem and went to check the voltage, 9.# volts. I would have thought that it would be 12 volts, I guess the voltage is reduced to 9 volts for a coil set up. You might try a different starter relay.
