I did not look to see exactly what the 2.3 design was. Sorry.... I have seen symptoms like this before, and it all fell on some ignition glitch that affected timing, regardless of ignition design. I could point you to some data sources of you run out of options. Take Care...

 

That's OK. I've never seen a design like the 2.3 until I got this truck for my son. There is no way to adjust the timing and it has 8 spark plugs for a 4 cylinder. It really throws them off at the parts store when you tell them you have a 4 cylinder and they bring you 4 plugs and you say "no I need 8. I think it's kinfd of wierd but I think it gives more power from a 4 than just havei 4 plugs.

 

I appreciate the posts.
I am kind of thinking its the timing sensor.
I had asked about timing the truck knowing full well that there is no way to set timing like with a dist.
You know, I would love for it to be the timing belt!
Then I could get on with it, you know.
I have changed the timing belt before, and I have the guard bent just enough to slip it on really easy.
I got a feeling it's the Crankshaft Timing sensor. I've done that one before, it's a job, but not that bad.
At any rate the truck is at shop right now, getting diagnostics, so I will let everybody know.
Thanks for the advice...everybody!

 

I put a code reader on the boy's truck and it read the Variable Speed Sensor(VSS). I was told this is on the transmission. I'm wondering if it reads the engine speed, but they didn't have any place to put it so that where they did. I had another code reader attached to it. This code reader supposedly was a $3,000 reader and it said the O2 sensor. We replaced it and the problem is still there. The guy that told me the O2 sensor said it takes a few days to clear itself. I talked to my father-in-law, a mechanic for over 30 years and he said whenever he replaced one, you would notice the difference right away. I was thinking the timimng sensor under the timing belt cover. He said usually if they go bad, the engine won't even start. I'm starting to think my $30 reader might be right. It kind of makes sense. When the engine hits a certain RPM, it bogs down. It never cuts out, just bogs down. It doesn't matter if the truck is sitting still under no load or riding along at 70. When it hits that RPM, it does it. I'm going to put my reader on it again tonight and see what it reads.

 

Been there done that. Love the dumb look on their face. I know this is off topic, and good luck to you. I have two rangers, a 91 and just picked up a 89. Both with the same engine. What I hate is trying to change the plugs on the drivers side. You have to tear your hands up and remove half the intake system.

This may or may not be an issue for you, but on the trip down when I inheriated the 89 from my brother, it was doing much the same thing. As I was in the middle of no where, I removed the air filter, and 90% of the problem disapeared.

 

The VSS is where the speedometer cable connects to the trans.
I replaced it....no change.
The shop that I took the truck to IS STILL TRYING to find the problem.
A while back, the Timing belt broke.
The guy at the shop is checking timing. He is thinking it may be a "tooth off"
Will inform.
Thanks for the Help!

 

You know what?
I tried that too but it didn't work.
BUT>>>
It does sound to me, when It is starting to do that, like it is "GASPING for air"
The mechanic I took it to said that the new MAF sensor was sending low voltage.
Brand new from AutoZone.

 

The $3,000 code reader said ours was running rich. We checked the timing and it was dead on. I'll try the air cleaner trick and see what happens. I was thinking about the cat converter as well, but I've seen those go and when they do, you can't get much above 30 mph. The VSS on the trans, is yours automatic or standard? Ours is standard. This has been for about 2 weeks now.

 

They should cover it with a Guarantee. Tell them it checked out bad, and exchange it and see what happens. From all you have done to cure it, anything is worth a try.

 

It's fixed!!!! Went to the pick and pull junk yard on Sunday and gott coil packs. WE also got a new air cleaner box as the one on ours was broken. On the air cleaner box is the mass air flow sensor. Took it home and put on the new coil pack and there was no change. We put the new air box cover on with the MAF sensor and it ran perfect. Took the coil pack off and saved it for another day. Fixed the problem for $20 from the junk yard. All of the code readers were WRONG! If you think this is your problem, try a used one as the new ones are in the $200 range. Fro $20, I figured we couldn't go wrong.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed and thats a get price too!!!!

 

This makes me wonder. The top of my MAF sensor is cracked. My 2.3 runs pretty decent, but it is very moody. Some days it has power; some days it doesnt. Maybe I should try this. Was it just a coil pack or just the new airbox and MAF sensor or both?

 

It was not the coil pack at all. I got them at the salvage yard thinking it might be. The tabs on the air cleaner cover were broken as well as the plastic cover to the little circuit box on the MAF. (I had it covered with a piece of duct tape.) My son said he wanted to get the air cleaner cover so I got the whole ball of wax. I put the coil pack on and found no change in performance so I took it back off and said let's try this and see what happens. I put the different air cleaner cover on and plugged in the different MAF ans voila (That's French, it means "There it is", or something like that) we had, as Tim the Tool man Taylor says "more power." It turns out it was the MAF only.

One of the symptoms was that when you first started the truck, it would run for a coulpe of seconds and die. You 'd start it again and it might die. Usually by the 3rd time, it would stay running. Then if you push it to the floor, she would rev up until you got the pedal about half way to the floor. The she would start spitting and sputtering and choking, but she wouldn't die. She was back firing etc... She would do this sitting still in the driveway or driving along at 60-70 mph. As long as you didn't push the pedal past the halfway point you were fine. The different MAF did the trick. I say different because it was used, not new. I hate to guess at things and spend lots of money just to find out it's something different. Electronics, aren't they wonderful? I'd rather work on my '55. Not much to think about on that one.

 

I am with you on this one. I just spent nearly $700 replacing all the diffent sensors and controls for a E40D that was shifting hard. As it was my first experience with a computer controled trans, I was in the dark. In the end, it was nothing more then a simple Throttle Position Sensor. I have to admit my quest for information on the problem lead me to these forums, and I gained a lot of knowledge here that did lead to tracking down the problem.

Same as you, I like to work on my older 78 truck much more then the newer ones. A simple twist of the wench and good kick can fix nearly anything.

 

For all of you who tried to help me figure out the problem THANKS.
I took it to a well recomended guy, in a nice shop.
The truck is a second truck, promised to my 15 year old when he is ready.
I told the mechanic everything that I had done, and he and I thought it might be a timing belt issue.
Not long after the engine was rebuilt the timing belt broke.
When I replaced the belt, I had to re adjust the timing, you know, bring the #1 piston up and turn the camshaft to get the valves in sink with the pistons.
So I must have been a tooth off.
It is still the typical 2.3 ranger IE. really under powered.
Anyway, for those wondering, that is what was causing the problem.