92 Ranger 2.3 Acceleration problem
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92 Ranger 2.3 Acceleration problem
I have a problem that I just can't track down.
I have a 92 Ranger 2.3.
When I go up a grade, or even when I accelerating to get on the freeway the truck will go for a while then act like it's not getting gas, or like the timing has changed.
It misses badly and loses power.
When I let off of the gas, it slowly clears, but does it again when accelerating.
It runs fine around town and idles perfectly.
I started trying to repair it by replacing the fuel filter, then the pump, then the regulator, then blew out the lines and replaced all 4 injectors.
I replaced both coil packs.
I ran codes and replaced the TPS, the Maf, the fuel pump relay, and the Vehicle speed sensor, I now get a code 111
I replaced plugs, wires, and ERG.
I cleaned out the throttle body, and checked the vac lines, I checked the throttle body for vac leaks.
I ran compression tests to see if I had a bad cylander and all 4 are reading at about 60 psi.
After every repair the same problem exists.
Can anyone give me some advice on what to do next?
( other then take it to somebody to fix it, or "Dump it")
CallerDale@aol.com
I have a 92 Ranger 2.3.
When I go up a grade, or even when I accelerating to get on the freeway the truck will go for a while then act like it's not getting gas, or like the timing has changed.
It misses badly and loses power.
When I let off of the gas, it slowly clears, but does it again when accelerating.
It runs fine around town and idles perfectly.
I started trying to repair it by replacing the fuel filter, then the pump, then the regulator, then blew out the lines and replaced all 4 injectors.
I replaced both coil packs.
I ran codes and replaced the TPS, the Maf, the fuel pump relay, and the Vehicle speed sensor, I now get a code 111
I replaced plugs, wires, and ERG.
I cleaned out the throttle body, and checked the vac lines, I checked the throttle body for vac leaks.
I ran compression tests to see if I had a bad cylander and all 4 are reading at about 60 psi.
After every repair the same problem exists.
Can anyone give me some advice on what to do next?
( other then take it to somebody to fix it, or "Dump it")
CallerDale@aol.com
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I will try it.
What vac do I hook to...any? Like the fuel regulator?
Unless the gauge that I am using is marked somewhere +100 it's 60.(it's one of those hold in type, NOT threaded into the spark plug hole)
Now that in itself was a concern considering the book says it should be no less then 100, but all the cyl. were at 60.
Thanks for the reply!
What vac do I hook to...any? Like the fuel regulator?
Unless the gauge that I am using is marked somewhere +100 it's 60.(it's one of those hold in type, NOT threaded into the spark plug hole)
Now that in itself was a concern considering the book says it should be no less then 100, but all the cyl. were at 60.
Thanks for the reply!
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From: Alvin, Texas.
There is no code 111 on your truck. Pre-93 Ranger should only have 2 digit codes. On the 3 digit models, even if yours is actually one of those, 111 = PASS. All that means is the computer is working as normal.
What got you to replace all those parts anyway? Rainy day money burn a hole in the pocket?
As for the plugs, what did they indicate when you looked at them? The Haynes has a great demo inside the back cover of what the plug will look like for a given condition...
What got you to replace all those parts anyway? Rainy day money burn a hole in the pocket?
As for the plugs, what did they indicate when you looked at them? The Haynes has a great demo inside the back cover of what the plug will look like for a given condition...
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Well, my code reader gives me 3 numbers.
As far as the plugs go, I have been working on cars for a long time.
I could have re used the plugs, they were in good shape, but plugs are cheep, the symptom indicated maybe a bad plug...why not?
You are right about the money though.Lets just say that it's been a project to say the least!
Those parts were because of 3 number codes I get, and by the way if you look in the Haynes book, you will see that the EEC-IV system does indeed use 3 numbers.
Thanks for the posting though...I do feel like a dumb bell for "throwing" all those parts at it.
As far as the plugs go, I have been working on cars for a long time.
I could have re used the plugs, they were in good shape, but plugs are cheep, the symptom indicated maybe a bad plug...why not?
You are right about the money though.Lets just say that it's been a project to say the least!
Those parts were because of 3 number codes I get, and by the way if you look in the Haynes book, you will see that the EEC-IV system does indeed use 3 numbers.
Thanks for the posting though...I do feel like a dumb bell for "throwing" all those parts at it.
Last edited by CallerDale; Aug 22, 2005 at 09:24 AM. Reason: spelling
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Dale it sounds like you guage is reading 60 * 100 = 600 kpa
that converts to 600 * .145(conversion factor) = 87 PSI.
A little low, but is should not cause the miss.
Dave
that converts to 600 * .145(conversion factor) = 87 PSI.
A little low, but is should not cause the miss.
Dave
Last edited by Dave257; Aug 22, 2005 at 09:46 AM.
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From: SoCal
According to my Haynes 17 to 22 inches at idle is a good reading. Since you have 17 that agrees with Daves 87 PSI for compression.
And the 19 at high RPM sez the cat does'nt have a permanent clog. But maybe the guts inside are loose & temporarily clogging up the works.
Not sure how you would test for that though.
Have you given the cat a good whack to see if it rattles?
And the 19 at high RPM sez the cat does'nt have a permanent clog. But maybe the guts inside are loose & temporarily clogging up the works.
Not sure how you would test for that though.
Have you given the cat a good whack to see if it rattles?
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Anyone think it could be the computer?
I got codes off the thing just yesterday.
The timing cover is gone so I don't know exactly where the timing is set. But should that matter, timing is controled by the Crankshaft timing sensor, there is no way of adjusting is there?
The vac test yesterday indicated that the timing was borderline advanced. The 17 lb is located right at the border of advanced timing on that gauge.
What do you think?
Even then how do you adjust, turn the camshaft?
It starts on a dime and runs great around town.
doesn't use oil.
I got codes off the thing just yesterday.
The timing cover is gone so I don't know exactly where the timing is set. But should that matter, timing is controled by the Crankshaft timing sensor, there is no way of adjusting is there?
The vac test yesterday indicated that the timing was borderline advanced. The 17 lb is located right at the border of advanced timing on that gauge.
What do you think?
Even then how do you adjust, turn the camshaft?
It starts on a dime and runs great around town.
doesn't use oil.
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The reason I ask is, if the timing is set too high, then when the sensors tell the computer that the truck is going up hill, then the computer advances or retards the timing.
Then it could possably make it run like that couldn't it?
Then it could possably make it run like that couldn't it?
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Timming will not cause an engine miss, a backfire ok, and poor performance if it is retarded. The computer sets timing by engine speed not road conditions.I keep coming back to plugs and wires... you may want to take it to a shop and have them scope it, they can spot a bad plug/wire quick and it may be les expensie then just changing them. If you do have them check it make sure they will tell you which one is bad so you don't have to replace all of them.. I can't sign off on the bad cpu either.
Dave
Dave
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If the compression jumps that much after shooting oil into the cylinders, you have a compression problem. My SVO was acting like you describe and ended up having a warped head. I just finished reassembling the motor last week after working on the car since April. Now if I could just get the body back so I could get it running again...
Spark timing is indeed controlled by the computer. N/A 2.3L engines don't have any way of sensing detonation (factory turbo motors have a knock sensor) and therefore won't retard timing under load unless the spark tables are calibrated to pull a couple of degrees of timing under heavy load with the ECT and ACT sensors reading above a certain temperature.
My 2.3L engines always read around 17-19" vaccum at idle.
Spark timing is indeed controlled by the computer. N/A 2.3L engines don't have any way of sensing detonation (factory turbo motors have a knock sensor) and therefore won't retard timing under load unless the spark tables are calibrated to pull a couple of degrees of timing under heavy load with the ECT and ACT sensors reading above a certain temperature.
My 2.3L engines always read around 17-19" vaccum at idle.