U joint replacement price
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Long island NY
U joint replacement price
What type of prices should I be expecting to pay for U joints on an 86 F250 4wd, Dana 44 front axle. I definitely need a front passenger, so Im figureing both u joints up front, and the ones on my rear drive shaft. The garage that did my inspection told me 500 for the front ones, and that seems very high, what type of prices should i look at if i have a transmisson place do it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
There's a ton of labor involved in getting to the front u-joints. $500 is about right. You have to pull off everything down to the bare knuckle.
The driveshaft u-joints are much cheaper. Press out, press in. Shouldn't cost you much there at all. Figure about $50 to $75 each.
The driveshaft u-joints are much cheaper. Press out, press in. Shouldn't cost you much there at all. Figure about $50 to $75 each.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Duncan,OK
ALDATA shows 1.8 hours for the front joints.
1.5 for single cardan joints and 2.4 for doubles on the rear. Price depends on the labor rates and part costs in your area. Here the cost would run from 181.50-231.00 labor, plus parts, plus 2%.
Pat
1.5 for single cardan joints and 2.4 for doubles on the rear. Price depends on the labor rates and part costs in your area. Here the cost would run from 181.50-231.00 labor, plus parts, plus 2%.
Pat
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From: Sierra Vista AZ
I don't want to hijack the thread but I keep breaking front u-joints. A month ago I broke the drivers side and this weekend I broke the passenger side.
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Duncan,OK
Originally Posted by Commo
I don't want to hijack the thread but I keep breaking front u-joints. A month ago I broke the drivers side and this weekend I broke the passenger side.
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
They'er a good bunch when it comes to breakin things.
Pat
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Ryan,
Based on older posts, you seem to have fair mechanicing skills. You could pull down your front end and do the work yourself for fairly cheap. You could probably knock it all out in a Saturday with no prior experience if you wanted to. The only specialty tools involved are the spindle nut socket and a decent vise. Plus it would be great experience. Just my $0.02
Based on older posts, you seem to have fair mechanicing skills. You could pull down your front end and do the work yourself for fairly cheap. You could probably knock it all out in a Saturday with no prior experience if you wanted to. The only specialty tools involved are the spindle nut socket and a decent vise. Plus it would be great experience. Just my $0.02
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Elder User
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From: Long island NY
Hmm. I was told that U joints were more difficult and useualy need press's and torches.. well I'll get my estimates and if they are still out there I'll probably do em myself..
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A press might help, but for the size of the joints, a vise will be ok. I've done it knee-deep in mud with a hammer and pair of needle-nose pliers. A little ingenuity beats the crap out of a ton of equipment anyday in my mind. If you decide to do it yourself, pm or call me, I'll help all I can.
Ernie
863.242.6672
Ernie
863.242.6672
Post Fiend
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by Commo
I don't want to hijack the thread but I keep breaking front u-joints. A month ago I broke the drivers side and this weekend I broke the passenger side.
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
What is a good type/material that is a step up from OEM?
Thanks
I put them in my front axle, lifetime warranty and they're rebuildable with bushings instead of needle bearings.FWIW a lot of manuals will warn against using a press on u-joints and some even warn against a vice as these CAN have a tendancy to egg out the holes for the u-joint caps. I've used the vice in the past but personally I prefer a big hammer and some sockets to pound them in.
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From: Sierra Vista AZ
Originally Posted by ivanribic
If you really want to get nuts do a search for CTM u-joints. You'll never need to buy another pair which is convenient because you'll never be able to afford another pair either. I put them in my front axle, lifetime warranty and they're rebuildable with bushings instead of needle bearings.
FWIW a lot of manuals will warn against using a press on u-joints and some even warn against a vice as these CAN have a tendancy to egg out the holes for the u-joint caps. I've used the vice in the past but personally I prefer a big hammer and some sockets to pound them in.
I put them in my front axle, lifetime warranty and they're rebuildable with bushings instead of needle bearings.FWIW a lot of manuals will warn against using a press on u-joints and some even warn against a vice as these CAN have a tendancy to egg out the holes for the u-joint caps. I've used the vice in the past but personally I prefer a big hammer and some sockets to pound them in.
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Elder User
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From: Long island NY
at one of my local shops i was quoted 3hours of labor and 2 u joints, 85 hr plus parts. around 300 bucks over and out, and these people know my boss, so maybe we can work something out.. but i'm still going to get another roughe estimate.
Post Fiend
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by andym
Holy CRAP.
$209 for a u-joint? For that price, they better install themselves.
BTW, that's only for the D44 joint. The D60 joint is $283.
No, that's not a typo.
$209 for a u-joint? For that price, they better install themselves.
BTW, that's only for the D44 joint. The D60 joint is $283.
No, that's not a typo.
But those things are BEEFY and I have yet to ever hear about anyone breaking a D60 CTM joint. I've seen 2 broken D44's but these guys are running decent horse and 44" tires which shouldn't be on a D44 in the first place. From the looks of the pictures I saw the outer stub broke and caused a bind that finished off the u-joint. But they're replaced for free.Here's my old u-joint next to the CTM. Look at how much more meat is on there, plus CTM's don't have an internal grease passage, they're solid. You grease each cap separately.
Ryan, $300 doesn't sound unreasonable if that's parts and labor. Honestly, if you have a little patience and a few toold you could do it yourself and save $200+ but it can take a fair amount of persuasion to get the old joints out and new ones in.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
you have three U-joints in your front axle alone, two more for the front driveshaft, and two for the rear...
You would save a TON of money if you took all the shafts out and take them to the shop. Most of the labor costs is just getting the shafts out of the truck.
You would save a TON of money if you took all the shafts out and take them to the shop. Most of the labor costs is just getting the shafts out of the truck.
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