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I took a rock in the windshield the other day and within a hour it was about 8" long and not repairable.
I have had two installers come out and both have told me that they don't do the old Fords with the stainless trim around them. One installer told me they don't make the rubber for the windshields with the stainless only bare rubber. I can buy a windshield and I think that Dennis Carpenter has the right rubber.
The question is how hard is it to install this windshield and what tricks are involved?
I am very hands on and 99% sure I can get it right just looking for help so I don't damage the stainless mine is in perfect shape.
This will be last resort I am talking to a couple more installers before giving up and doing it myself.
I recently bought rubber with the groove for the stainless. First use a sharp utility knife and cut the old rubber and broken winshield out It requires the old cord string method to install and extra hands because of the curved edge of the windshield .Two extra friends and Go-Jo hand cleaner for lube I got mine in. Put rubber around the glass and helpers hold pressure from outside keeping glass aligned in opening and cord man inside cab working rope side to side evenly No glass shop in my area would do the install Hope this is some help
JD, Carpenter makes the rubber for both trim & no trim. You have to put the rubber on the glass, then insert the trim, before you install it.
The installers used a 3/16" sash cord looped around the gasket from the bottom when they installed my windshield. The gasket is a dry fit, no sealant. Set it in the hole and start installing it bottom up, pulling the cord out (and the inside rubber in) until you get around the the top. This is a two man job.
jd
After removing W/S/Wiper Arms & Blades, slip a piece of heater hose over pivots left sticking up. Lay a "moving pad", thick blanket, or pad on cowl & hood for protection.
The gasket has to be cut away or else you run the risk of distorting the stainless trim pieces trying to remove them with the gasket in tact and the windshield in place.
When ya cut your old windshield out do it from inside by running blade flat against inner surface of the glass. Cut against the SS bright trim mounting flange inside the rubber. have somebody push the broken windshield outward and have somebody or 2 sombodys if you can, catch it.
Trim reinstalls after new windshield has been installed in place in the opening.
Use soapy water for a lubricant it is gentler on the gasket that anything else, it's also gentler on finish etc. I use Ivory soap it won't stain anything, like detergent will. I also soak sash/ venetion blind cord in soapy water & I slosh up my gaskets pretty good too.
I agree both Gaskets are still available, and I have used DCs'. Matter of fact I always use a new gasket. Many of the windshields I have done were still good and I had to repair metal or the gaskets leaked or stuff like that. I didn't want to hurt the glass so I cut the gasket away to save the glass or save the mouldings etc.
Lastly you may want to look for a different installer, the one you spoke with does not appear to be very knowledgable. Sounds as if he wants to do "cut & past" easy ones because he doesn't know very much about older, gasketed mount windshields.
jd
Safelite installed my glass with no problems......they had the glass and installed it. I only had to supply the gasket. Whole process was about $300 bucks with the glass and installation. May wanna give them a call. Besides it only took them 10 minutes to do. Just a option
Not to cause any problems; but I'm confuse on installing? (Custom Cab Trim pieces) Both FBp & Jowilker are super Knowledgeable Ford Techinican's; but FBp states trim place in rubber after installing into frame of cab and Jo state's prior to installing.
I do like the removal techinque from FBp about protecting your hood & cowl area and especially the wiper bezel arms.
I'm fixing to install new front glass in my truck as well as the ("original")back glass. My buddy owns a glass installing company and he gets his glass from a source in Nashville Tennesse called Independant Glass Company; I can get the 1-800 # later if needed. Also my glass installer's state you insert the chrome trim into the rubber prior to installing into the truck. An yes its a dry rubber insert with no sealer to be used.
Hope this help's not hurt....
just to add to my last post; Jd; check our blueovaltruck parts sponsor they stock both shaded & clear glass for $204.95. don't know there location & Shipping cost...
WOW
Thanks for the great information. I am also just a bit confused as to install the trim before or after you install it into the truck. Thanks CC. Also Safelite was the place that told me that the glass was obsolete. I have two local guys that sell the glass but will ony install without trim. So it looks like I will install it myself using the methods from this post.
You guys haven't let me down yet.
LOF is a major auto glass manufacturer, they have new tinted glass for these trucks. I just had one installed 2 years ago, the only problem with the new glas is that it is not as chip resistent as the original Carlite or FoMoCo glass.
My 40 year old glass was replaced because of 40 years of sandblasting, not because it was chipped. My new LOF glass already has 4 chips in it.
The trim has to go in the rubber before installing in the truck, also if you use duct tape across the broken windshield it will help hold it together, wear gloves and eye protection.
While FBP is the grand PooPah round here, and I do agree with the extra paint protection, I didn't make the choice on the trim install. I bought new glass for one truck, and had one moved to my other truck at the same time. The glass company chose the methodology, I just watched. If Pete says it will work, I believe him. I have learned from you guys that there are more than one way to skin a cat. I have not seen or tried to install trim after installation.
You guys are on the right track with the trim. It has to be in the gasket before putting the windshield in the cab, otherwise there is not enough flex of the gasket to allow it to be installed. I used hair conditioner as the gasket lubricant. It does not dry out nearly as fast as soap. I have saturated gaskets in dish soap and they still dry out before the installation is complete. The conditioner is cheap ( and your wife will not miss a few ounces ) and it will not damage your paint or the rubber and the residue comes off easily with water. I learned this from a guy who has been in the auto glass business for over 30 years. Hope this helps. Steve