front hood hinges sucess!
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by bobbytnm
WHAT!?!?!?! they still haven't started your shop?? and I thought I was having a tough summer. Any chance of getting it finished before winter hits?
Good luck with it
Bobby
Good luck with it
Bobby
I took pix of the hinges today, will upload to my gallery in a few minutes.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
AX -
Very unique design. Very well executed. I like very much how you maintained the radiator valance basically intact. I also like the slotted hole method to align it and that the pivot center is the peak of the lead edge. Way cool.
It isn't apparent to me how you got the gap between the valance (hinge pin mounting surface) and the slotted hood plate. There's no adjustment there that I can see. Needs to be right on or the contour of the hood/fender won't line up. What did I miss? You must have done some very precise measuring somehow.
You've also come up with a design the the guys with glass fenders can use!
Great job!
Very unique design. Very well executed. I like very much how you maintained the radiator valance basically intact. I also like the slotted hole method to align it and that the pivot center is the peak of the lead edge. Way cool.
It isn't apparent to me how you got the gap between the valance (hinge pin mounting surface) and the slotted hood plate. There's no adjustment there that I can see. Needs to be right on or the contour of the hood/fender won't line up. What did I miss? You must have done some very precise measuring somehow.
You've also come up with a design the the guys with glass fenders can use!
Great job!
Last edited by Randy Jack; Aug 18, 2005 at 09:48 AM.
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From: Durham NC
I made a lot of templates and made the mounting plate and pin mount as separate pieces for adjustment. The fender and hood peaks line up perfectly. I used a long length of 3/8" rod cut to just fit between the fenders and slid the knuckle tubes onto it to get the compound angle and position just right and tacked it together on the truck. The piece between the tube and the plate that bolts to the latch panel is 1/2" square tubing with a small gusset plate underneath. I have to finish the latch plate before I bolt it all together, but I'll post more pix when I do. The pieces look rough in the pix because the gloss black paint was reflecting the trees and dappled sunlight overhead.
I plan to use a small remote release trunk latch inset into a pocket at the cowl.
I plan to use a small remote release trunk latch inset into a pocket at the cowl.
Last edited by AXracer; Aug 18, 2005 at 11:39 AM.
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From: Durham NC
Yes, have to work outside in the backyard (the only level spot in the entire yard). It's a good thing my wife is as enthusiastic about this as I am. She has the Mig welder sitting in her kitchen next to the back door so I don't have to carry it far to move it outside every time I want to use it. Run a heavy duty cord into a 20 A kitchen outlet for power. This time of year I also have to be ready to pick everything up on short notice since we get scattered summer heat thunderstorms almost daily.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
AX,
Very impressive!! nice work!! do you have a punch or did you send the plates out for the slotted holes......never mind, I guess if you don't have the shop built yet then you probably don't have room for a punch either.
When and if I aquire a 53-56 I know what to do for hood hinges. What a clean and compact design.
Bobby
Very impressive!! nice work!! do you have a punch or did you send the plates out for the slotted holes......never mind, I guess if you don't have the shop built yet then you probably don't have room for a punch either.
When and if I aquire a 53-56 I know what to do for hood hinges. What a clean and compact design.
Bobby
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From: Durham NC
Slotted holes were done by drilling two holes, grinding out between by hand with a carbide bit in a die grinder. All the parts were built of 1/8" plate and angle. Angle/curved bends were made by by clamping the pieces between two short lengths of heavy I beam on the ground, heating with an OA torch and hitting them with a heavy slap hammer while kneeling on the upper I beam. All cuts were made with cutoff wheels in a 4" angle grinder. grinding and sandpaper flap disks on the angle grinder was used to shape and smooth the pieces, Die grinder used to dress inside angle welds. Painted with rattle cans. Don't even have a vise set up to use.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Now THAT is determination!! Again, very nice work, espescially with the conditions you are working in. Just goes to show you that with a little ingenuity you can persevere.
Bobby
Bobby
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From: Durham NC
Thanks! Fortunately I'm good at problem solving, and the metal work is not a great deal different from what I do every day designing/making jewelry, just on a much larger scale. I'd love to see what I could do with a fully equipped shop, I think I could give the big guys a run for their money.
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