purchasing a long block
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 6
From: Abilene Kansas
purchasing a long block
my friend has a 94 jeep with an i6 4.0 and i will be purchasing a long block, any good places that someone has purchased from and liked... cause i hear of some bad ones
Matt
Matt
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
If you see anything about an extra hundred bucks in the ordering info to get a premium engine, pay STRICT attention! Especially from an auto parts store.
I have done that exactly once, and I can tell you what that means...
If you DON'T shell that extra cash, the long block will be a reconditioned one sure - but will also have HELICOIL repairs of threads, and second rate components.
I got a 302 like that, and even the motor mount bolt holes had been stripped out and repaired. One of the heads had the wrong helicoil size installed, and it had to be re-threaded for the intake manifold to seal.
If the old block is still good, shop for a machine shop or rebuilder in your area rather than farming the whole thing out to a crate engine refurbisher. OR shell the extra cash to avoid the trash!
I tell you this from experience. The only way I would buy another engine that arrives on a pallet is if it came from P.A.W. or straight from FORD Performance.
A good rebuild shop, where you get your own engine back, is likely to cost less in the long run and the warrantee and support is a lot better.
The flip side to this is that if you have slammed a rod out the side of the block, getting a crate engine can put you ahead. The old block is turned in as a core, and if you pay extra for best quality you are back in business.
In the situation I would have the old one with me when I went to seal the deal. That way I'd know if the core charge was going to be pro-rated or anything.
My two cents...
I have done that exactly once, and I can tell you what that means...
If you DON'T shell that extra cash, the long block will be a reconditioned one sure - but will also have HELICOIL repairs of threads, and second rate components.
I got a 302 like that, and even the motor mount bolt holes had been stripped out and repaired. One of the heads had the wrong helicoil size installed, and it had to be re-threaded for the intake manifold to seal.
If the old block is still good, shop for a machine shop or rebuilder in your area rather than farming the whole thing out to a crate engine refurbisher. OR shell the extra cash to avoid the trash!
I tell you this from experience. The only way I would buy another engine that arrives on a pallet is if it came from P.A.W. or straight from FORD Performance.
A good rebuild shop, where you get your own engine back, is likely to cost less in the long run and the warrantee and support is a lot better.
The flip side to this is that if you have slammed a rod out the side of the block, getting a crate engine can put you ahead. The old block is turned in as a core, and if you pay extra for best quality you are back in business.
In the situation I would have the old one with me when I went to seal the deal. That way I'd know if the core charge was going to be pro-rated or anything.
My two cents...
Last edited by Greywolf; Aug 11, 2005 at 02:10 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Cornelius, Oregon
I agree 100% with the wolf. If your block is at all usable, pull it and have it rebuilt by a local (reputable) shop. As far as ordering a long block, the only experience I have with that is ordering a short block through PAW. Great service and the engine is a strong performer even 5 or so years later.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
andy9743
Excursion - King of SUVs
15
Feb 27, 2017 09:19 AM
78Ranger400
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
Jul 25, 2011 01:24 PM
jeff moon
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
1
Jan 31, 2003 04:00 PM
