Test Drive
Other things, if it's an automatic, make sure it shifts smoothly all the way up to highway speeds. Get it nice and warm, and listen to it at idle. Gun the motor in neutral. Once it's warm, bad bearings will start to knock at idle if there's anything wrong.
I've not heard of exhaust manifolds breaking, but I have heard plenty about exhaust manifold BOLTS (or more accurately, studs) breaking - check that all the nuts are there for the manifolds.
Check the engine oil, make sure it's not black or deep brown, if it is, even the dealer isn't taking care of it right.
Check the front suspension, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock without moving, any creaks, etc, make a note of it, and get the dealer to fix or lube it and make sure it goes away.
Kick the front tires at the top, hard. Any noticable bangs from that means wheel bearings or ball joints are worn. Kick the tires at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, any bangs means tie-rods are worn, or something even in the steering (depending on how hard you kick them).
I've had many people look at me funny when looking at used cars for friends/family. As in "who kicks tires anymore?" - it's a suspension test for me

Other than that, tranny fluid color (and smell test), check the brakes - empty, it should be easy to get the ABS to come on on dry asphalt when stopping hard. If it just glides to a stop (and if it does have ABS) when you slam on the brakes, something's wrong. If it doesn't have ABS, it should be easy to lock up one or both front wheels.
Go from drive-to-reverse-to-drive a few times, check for clunks. Some slop in a 4x4 transfer case is normal, but if there's any thuds, have them check it and fix it.
And, try to get 30-90 days warranty so you can drive it for a while and work out the kinks.
GOOD LUCK!
art k.



