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Test Drive

Old Aug 10, 2005 | 08:48 PM
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Wimmer
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Test Drive

I am going to test drive the 2000 f-350 cc lwb 4x4, thats a mouth full, tommorow. What should I look for, listen for, or do to check it out. I plan on looking all around the bottom for some idea of previous use. I am also going to get the VIN to do a carfax check. What else? My experience is in Powerstrokes. I am pretty sure the v-10 should not sound like my diesel. This truck has 166000 miles so I am a little concerned. Thanks for the input on that post.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 08:54 PM
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From: manalapan nj
check that the exhaust manifolds are all there. have a habit of rusting and breaking causing exhaust leaks. also check break lines for rust.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 01:08 AM
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The V10s are a very quiet and smooth motor when idling. In the plant I work in there is an 99 F450 V10 that the plant security uses. The thing only has about 110 000 miles on it but countless idling time. It is left idling all the time in winter months and I have always marvelled at how quiet it is. Good luck with your test drive . Wrench.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 11:32 AM
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When you go there, make sure they do NOT start it before you get there! Make sure it's cold (not started since the day before), and listen carefully as it starts up - any knocks, ticks, etc, run... Or, make them put a Ford reman motor in it and cough up an extra $2K or so for the peace of mind.

Other things, if it's an automatic, make sure it shifts smoothly all the way up to highway speeds. Get it nice and warm, and listen to it at idle. Gun the motor in neutral. Once it's warm, bad bearings will start to knock at idle if there's anything wrong.

I've not heard of exhaust manifolds breaking, but I have heard plenty about exhaust manifold BOLTS (or more accurately, studs) breaking - check that all the nuts are there for the manifolds.

Check the engine oil, make sure it's not black or deep brown, if it is, even the dealer isn't taking care of it right.

Check the front suspension, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock without moving, any creaks, etc, make a note of it, and get the dealer to fix or lube it and make sure it goes away.

Kick the front tires at the top, hard. Any noticable bangs from that means wheel bearings or ball joints are worn. Kick the tires at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, any bangs means tie-rods are worn, or something even in the steering (depending on how hard you kick them).

I've had many people look at me funny when looking at used cars for friends/family. As in "who kicks tires anymore?" - it's a suspension test for me

Other than that, tranny fluid color (and smell test), check the brakes - empty, it should be easy to get the ABS to come on on dry asphalt when stopping hard. If it just glides to a stop (and if it does have ABS) when you slam on the brakes, something's wrong. If it doesn't have ABS, it should be easy to lock up one or both front wheels.

Go from drive-to-reverse-to-drive a few times, check for clunks. Some slop in a 4x4 transfer case is normal, but if there's any thuds, have them check it and fix it.

And, try to get 30-90 days warranty so you can drive it for a while and work out the kinks.

GOOD LUCK!

art k.
 
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