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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
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From: Easton,Ks
If you have the hoses reversed there is no way to get the air out of the heater. As the coolant rains down from the top the air will rise up through the core not letting a good transfer of heat take place. There is no way to get the air out without putting the truck on its end vertically.
This is called an AIR-LOCK, but I am not saying that this is what his problem is.
This is called an AIR-LOCK, but I am not saying that this is what his problem is.
Last edited by subford; Aug 27, 2005 at 11:31 AM.
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Testing Complete - The Big Switch
Okay Fellas the test is complete. I switched the hoses and handyman43358 is correct with the hoses flipped the heat output is different. So we can all relax now there is a right and wrong way to put on the heater hoses. By the way this is not the "fix" for this piece of ...t.
But I have some data for you to chew on.
Heater hoses hooked up correctly Floor = 120*, Defrost = 110* AC on and temp set at Hot=95*
Heater hoses hooked up backwards Floor = 110*, Defrost = 100* AC on and temp set at Hot = 90*
Does the difference in the defrost to the floor make any sense to anyone else? Can someone with sweat running from the eyebrows measure their temp output and post.
While doing this test I also pulled the glovebox and verified again that the blend door is fully opening and closing.
So Does anyone have a teardown procedure to yank the dash apart? Is there any other area the heater could be drawing external air without goiing through the heater core???
But I have some data for you to chew on.
Heater hoses hooked up correctly Floor = 120*, Defrost = 110* AC on and temp set at Hot=95*
Heater hoses hooked up backwards Floor = 110*, Defrost = 100* AC on and temp set at Hot = 90*
Does the difference in the defrost to the floor make any sense to anyone else? Can someone with sweat running from the eyebrows measure their temp output and post.
While doing this test I also pulled the glovebox and verified again that the blend door is fully opening and closing.
So Does anyone have a teardown procedure to yank the dash apart? Is there any other area the heater could be drawing external air without goiing through the heater core???
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Oh I forgot to mention I checked the AC output while I was there and it is coming out of the vents at a brisk -3F according to an infared gun. Not sure if this is outside of the guns range so I am not real confident on the value, but I can asure you it was cold. 80* ambient temp.
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You might just have to open the plenum (ductwork that contains all the airflow controlling doors), and find out if the blend door is really intact. Perhaps it is broken internally and you can't tell just by watching the externally mounted actuator lever movement.
It sounds like the heater core is getting hot, so if the blend door is broken, it would allow heat to mix with your A/C cooled air. How is the performance of the A/C when set to full col? Since you are in MN, maybe A/C problems are less noticeable? Try running full A/C and check the vent temps. Then disable the heater core by pinching off the hoses or connecting them together (so there is no flow through the heater core). If the vent temps are significantly colder with no heater core flow, the blend door is at fault (either broken somehow, not fully sealing, or not fully closing).
If the plenum is at fault due to a broken blend door, you may have to pull the whole plenum assembly out of the truck, inspect it carefully and get a good used one to install. A big job probably.
Let there be heat!
It sounds like the heater core is getting hot, so if the blend door is broken, it would allow heat to mix with your A/C cooled air. How is the performance of the A/C when set to full col? Since you are in MN, maybe A/C problems are less noticeable? Try running full A/C and check the vent temps. Then disable the heater core by pinching off the hoses or connecting them together (so there is no flow through the heater core). If the vent temps are significantly colder with no heater core flow, the blend door is at fault (either broken somehow, not fully sealing, or not fully closing).
If the plenum is at fault due to a broken blend door, you may have to pull the whole plenum assembly out of the truck, inspect it carefully and get a good used one to install. A big job probably.
Let there be heat!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 259
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From: SOUTHERN NEW JERSEY
check your clutch fan!!!! if it is "stuck" it will cause a no or low heat problem in the winter!
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still cool
Originally Posted by neversosure
check your clutch fan!!!! if it is "stuck" it will cause a no or low heat problem in the winter!
the heater core lines are 150F on the outside measured with a infared temp gun.
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I had a weak heat problem with an 85 mustang once. After tearing the duct sysytem apart, I found a mouse nest plugging up the works. Just a thought, especially if the truck has ever sat for a while. I know you said you have good air flow and the A/C works, but could air be getting around the core instead of through it?
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A few years ago, we had a car come to us from the chitverlot stealership with a heater issue, long story short, some of the plastic packaging had clogged the heater core, but they still had good heat on both sides of the core. My suggestion would be to pull one side and make sure you have good flow through the core. If so, you should be able to manually(easier said than done) move your air doors to direct flow over the core.
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Your heater input to the core is 150.
Your heater output at the floor is 120 - you lost 30 degrees
Your heater output at the defrost is 110 - you lost 40 degrees
Your heater output with the A/C on ( you don't say which vent you measured at ) and the blend door set on heat is 95 - you lost 55 degrees.
I think if the blend door is really is completely closing you won't have a heat loss with the A/C on.
Why is the input temperature only 150? shouldn't it be closer to the thermostat temperature - more like 185 degrees ?
My vote is a blend door thats not closing all the way.
John
Your heater output at the floor is 120 - you lost 30 degrees
Your heater output at the defrost is 110 - you lost 40 degrees
Your heater output with the A/C on ( you don't say which vent you measured at ) and the blend door set on heat is 95 - you lost 55 degrees.
I think if the blend door is really is completely closing you won't have a heat loss with the A/C on.
Why is the input temperature only 150? shouldn't it be closer to the thermostat temperature - more like 185 degrees ?
My vote is a blend door thats not closing all the way.
John
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Originally Posted by randomchance
Your heater input to the core is 150.
Your heater output at the floor is 120 - you lost 30 degrees
Your heater output at the defrost is 110 - you lost 40 degrees
Your heater output with the A/C on ( you don't say which vent you measured at ) and the blend door set on heat is 95 - you lost 55 degrees.
I think if the blend door is really is completely closing you won't have a heat loss with the A/C on.
Why is the input temperature only 150? shouldn't it be closer to the thermostat temperature - more like 185 degrees ?
My vote is a blend door thats not closing all the way.
John
Your heater output at the floor is 120 - you lost 30 degrees
Your heater output at the defrost is 110 - you lost 40 degrees
Your heater output with the A/C on ( you don't say which vent you measured at ) and the blend door set on heat is 95 - you lost 55 degrees.
I think if the blend door is really is completely closing you won't have a heat loss with the A/C on.
Why is the input temperature only 150? shouldn't it be closer to the thermostat temperature - more like 185 degrees ?
My vote is a blend door thats not closing all the way.
John
