Hi guys,

So I've done a little research on Y blocks, so now I'm dangerous. I'm debating if I should go with a different, larger Y block than my 239. I don't plan on racing or anything, but I'm not too stuck on keeping the original block in the truck. (I would keep in the designated spot under the workbench though).

My current 239 block is going to need an overhaul, so why not step up to a larger Y block? I assume that all Y block castings are the same and another will drop right in. Am I missing anything? Is it hard to find a larger Y block?

Also, as part of my truck package, I inherited 2 brand spanking new sets of "ramshorn" exhaust manifolds. These appear to be bigger than the stock manifolds. Are these typically viewed as nice compromise to headers?

 

What's to gain by going to a bigger Y Block? IMO, keep the 239, that is what I did. Had mine overhauled and am happy with it.
Fred

 

I have a complete 272 and 3-speed for sale. However, shipping might be a killer from Kansas to Mass. Email me if interested.

 

The real question is where are you on the whole keep it stock vs modify it argument. I am a person who believes in not using anything that couldn't have been stock. Some believe in keeping absolute stock down to reseraching the VIN. While we all know there are people who are total modify and modernize people. I have heard that the first good y-blocks were the 272/292's. I might be temped to change to the Y's with better reputations, but it is really up to you.

Broomfieldbum

 

I want to at least keep a Y block in the truck. I just need to do some research and see what the pros/cons are for going w/ a larger ci engine.

 

Jack,

As you may have surmised, there is no right or wrong here. Kudos to you for keeping the Y-block. Some pros & cons:

The 239 is or can be something of an odd duck. It was made at two facilities, at least at first, which differ from each other. One version, as you may have read, has an odd cam journal size, which makes it very difficult to find cams for it. This version has an odd distributor gear, different head design, all of which make it harder (though certainly not impossible) to rebuild properly. The other version is, more or less, similar to later Y-blocks.

The 239 is a good little engine, within its limits. It was used in plenty of trucks during '54-'55. However, our expectations of highway speed & performance are a little different now. Also, with higher axle gearing for mileage or longevity, it's at a handicap compared to a larger engine. It really depends on what you are looking to achieve.

All 239s have a tang/slot oil pump drive. These pumps are harder to find than the later "hex" drive found on other Y-blocks (similar to other Ford pump drives). This isn't too much of an issue unless...

...your goal is to gain more performance. The '54-'56 Y-blocks use the "Loadomatic" distributor, which is a carryover design from the flathead. It uses vacuum only, no centrifugal advance. It is functional (somewhat), but any performance application should use a '57 or later distributor, or the Mallory & MSD offerings (or other older aftermarket designs). All of the above have a hex drive. So, to use one, you have to use the later oil pump.

Some other factors: 239 parts tend to be more expensive than 272/292 parts (the ones that are different, anyway). This might not be an issue for you as Y's aren't "bellybutton" engines and are going to cost more than a 302 or SBC to rebuild anyway, all other things being equal. The 292 is the most common to find, generally the cheapest, & parts such as pistons are usually cheaper. If rebuilding a 272, it's generally more cost effective to overbore it to the 292 bore diameter. The 312 has some specific issues in itself, like block cracking, so you need to be very careful when purchasing one.

Some specific answers: any Ford Y-block will drop in with the correct mounts. As above, the 292 is the most common. The ram's horn manifolds are prized by F-100 owners as they flow somewhat better than the car duals (IMO) which won't fit trucks anyway, definitely better than the truck singles w/crossover, & are attractive.

All this my opinion, of course. Hope it helps.

 

Homespun91,

Thanks for the reply -- that was EXACTLY what I was looking for!

IS finding a stock bore 292 practically impossible now? How much can these blocks be over-bored, like 60 thousandths over?

--Jack

 

Jack,

Probably not impossible. Like anything else with Y's, you just have to look. They're more common than you would think. I know of two 292HD truck engines, stock bore, near my house. Unfortunately, one has a rod sticking out of the side of the block, a small problem. Everything else looks salvageable though.

.060 should be possible on nearly any Y, barring abnormal core shift. Many will easily go .125 over or more, & still have a good safety margin. As usual, I'd recommend sonic testing. The later 292HD truck blocks are reputed to have thinner cylinders, but I have not personally tested any. A couple of very respected, experienced Y builders have said this, though, so I suspect it's true. Even those should go .060. The HDs have some good things as well so I wouldn't skip one just because of the thinner jackets. The 312s need to be checked as well for wall thickness. The Y-s are of the first-gen OHV V-8s, & similar to most others of that era, like Cadillacs, early Olds, etc., have a LOT of metal in them. Thin-wall castings they ain't.

One thing to also consider while shopping is that the 292HDs have shorter rods (which are somewhat stronger, but I wouldn't go out of my way to locate a set). The common 292 cast pistons all have a shorter compression height, for the earlier truck & all pass car 292s with the std. rods. If you use these pistons with the short rods, you can end up with the piston as much as .170, give or take, below the deck. Not only does it absolutely kill the compression, but you will have no quench whatsoever (normally a strong point of the Y-block chamber design) & it possibly will be prone to detonation even with the reduction in compression. At any rate it will kill the power, compared to the correct combination. Just another happy thing to keep in mind. You can easily find a set of long rods to use. The HDs have forged cranks as a rule- not a necessity, but good for those 8000 rpm blasts or the N2O kit. Seriously, I wouldn't go out of my way to find a forged crank for the average (or even above average) street Y engine, but if you run across one you can always sell it & get some $$$.

By the way, I'm green with envy over the two sets of manifolds. And I already have a set.

 

I'm rebuilding my original 239 CF (2nd. generation). It's .030 over with duals and flowmasters...gonna sound so sweeeeet !!!

Using a later dizzy with hex drive and later model oil pump. Looking to add pertronix to dizzy. Sanderson Headers, will tune with stock Holly
(Ford script) 2-bbl. carb and look to add 2nd carb and Vintage Speed y-adaptor on intake.
I personally dont care about high end performance, just like the sound and looks of the old Y 239 and three speed (moved to floor).
You could run these old trucks with a big rubber band and they would still be a blast!

Ed

 

Thanks for the info, .170 below the deck doesn't sound real good so I'll keep aware of that fact during my search. I guess you could deck the block, but that sounds like too much and I presume would could other problems w/ the intake manifold. Easier just to avoid it.

Ed, my shifter was relocated to the floor also. I haven't decided if I'll move that back to the column or just leave it there.

Hopefully I'll be trailering the truck to my house later this month (its my uncle's gift to me). It's going to be a long haul from NJ to MA, about a six hour trek. I'll post some pictures once I get it. I'm anxious to get some feedback from the group. It has some rust under the headlights, but overall the metal is in very good condition. It does need paint pretty bad. Its bascially gonna be a frame off job though.

 

Nope, can't deck it that much. But, you just use the passenger car long rods, which are easy to find. Odds are that you'll find a standard 292 anyway so it won't be an issue. Just thought I'd mention it before you started looking.

Sounds like a great starting point!

 

I am running a 239 in my F-600 with a much later 14 tooth hex dist/oil pump + (pertronix) and a COTE-9510-C carb from a 292. I put a carb kit in it yesterday and it runs quite good! I love the way a Y-block starts on the first turn!

It's also coupled up with a T-98.

It's a little underpowered in my F-600 even though it originally came with a 223 I-6!

I don't plan to keep it in there and it will eventually come out and both will get replaced with something "completely different". This engine will be a good rebuild candidate and probalby will be just right for an F-100/250.

 

Jack71,

I have some pics of my shifter relocation in my gallery if you want to look.

also, The best road trip (adventure) I've taken in years is the original test drive of my 54....bought it off ebay after a long talk with the son of original owner....Flew to Newport News Va. and drove it back (7 hrs. ) to its new home in S.C.
What a cool trip it was and boy did all the truckers love to honk at me in the truck!
I still smile when I think back on it.

 

Well, after a long discussion w/ my uncle I think I'm going to leave this truck as close to stock as possible. I found out it has 70k miles on it -- my uncle was the 2nd owner. It also has a "brush guard" option or something like that from the factory. I have no..idea..what..this..is ??? The engine is original too.

Would it be a terrible thing if the painter through in a handful of metalic flakes into the paint bucket?

 

Jack, you paint it whatever color makes you and your uncle and whomever else is interested happy. Some of the folks don't like the shineys on these old truck, some do. There is no right or wrong answer - only what you like.

As far as the brush guard, I got a 56 version with my F-250. It looks just like the one shown in the dealer brochure as an option. Check out the illustration labeled page 32 at this link http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...aterial_1.html.

It's kind of beat up and bent, but I was going to sand blast it, straighten it out, and see if I could find a good home for it. If you want it, it's yours for the shipping cost. Here's a pic - I'll understand if you pass, I tend to fix up stuff that most of the other folks throw away.