Thanks for the link George. I'll pass on the guard -- only because I have one on the truck already. Now I know what it is! I appreciate that you clean up the old parts, I like to do that too. Although it sounds like you have mastered the art!

I tell you I am soooo juiced about this lil truck. I just really want to plan this project through before I start. Its so easy to take everything apart and just get stuck there. I may patch it up and get some drive time w/ it first.

 

Rick, how hard was it for you to change out the loadomatic? I have been told that the oil pump, shaft, and cam would have to be replaced?

Why couldn't I just rob the gear off of the bottom of my dizzy and install it on a 57+ dizzy?

 

Just the dist,dist shaft and oil pump. I bought the parts from NAPA. Their dist also has a "O" ring at the base, one less oil leak. On my 54 merc car with a 256 cu in installing the oil pump was the fun part (eng was/is in the car so very little room).

I almost forgot you will need to remove the cam gear from both dist's and install the old gear on the new dist. It's not as hard as it sounds just take your time.

Chuck

 

I found all of the parts you said on the NAPA website. That's all there is to it? How does the shaft, cam, and oil pump match up? The oil pump is on the outside of the drivers side block - right?

Then you installed the Petronics module inside and you were done?

 

Hi,

Everything lines up. I had a problem with a stuck dist but after a little talking to it gave up and came out. The hardest part for me was installing the oil pump (it is outside on the drivers side) in the tight quarters and trying to clean up 50 yrs of dirt also reaching the dist wasn't a comfortable thing.

I am still using points.

 

Homespun indicates the block cannot be decked.

I Went to a Street Rodder Magazine who featured a series in 1999 on building a Y- They suggest most Y- Block need to be decked because there is typical warpage of the block deck, nor are they typically anywhere close to 90 degrees to the crank or each other. They suggest it as a routine part of any build, and they deck the block for their mild Perf. build.

The 54 239 is sadled with some of the differences in cam oil pump and shaft differences mentioned. The block to head water passages are also different, If you've got a 55, it's all interchangable, and suitable for a Perf. build utilizing your Ramshorns. It was an old 60's trick to drop s 292 crank and pistons in the 55 239. I'm currently dropping a 312 crank in a 292 with std 312 pistons.

Don't forget the Y-block forum here at FTE where there's a bunch of experience. I've cut and pasted a bunch of information on this subject I can E-you if your interested.

Keep on Truckin, david

 

David,

I did not say or imply that the Y "can't be decked". This is what was actually written.


Jack71: "Thanks for the info, .170 below the deck doesn't sound real good so I'll keep aware of that fact during my search. I guess you could deck the block, but that sounds like too much and I presume would could other problems w/ the intake manifold. Easier just to avoid it."

Myself: "Nope, can't deck it that much. But, you just use the passenger car long rods, which are easy to find. Odds are that you'll find a standard 292 anyway so it won't be an issue. Just thought I'd mention it before you started looking."

The important words are "that much". You cannot deck most engines by .170 (over 1/8"!) without running into insurmountable problems. There are a few specific examples where it is possible.

Most block castings, after they have some running time "out of the factory", have decks that are (any or all):

A) Not 90 degrees to each other (or whatever dimension is proper)

B) Not parallel to the crank centerline

C) Not parallel to each other

D) Not "flat"

In any or all of these cases, remachining is indicated, if the dimension is outside of factory tolerances. In my experience, which certainly isn't universal, but somewhere around 100+ engines, including two Y-blocks, the vast majority of used blocks are out of tolerance in one or more of those four categories. I would never make the blanket statement that Y-blocks (or any other engine family) cannot be decked.

I have read the Street Rodder series of articles; as a matter of fact, I was the individual who sent the photocopies to you last year. I have no disagreement with their statement about decking the Y-block.

If you re-read this thread, you'll note that I was referring to what happens when the late "short" HD truck rods are accidentally used with the common, aftermarket passenger car cast replacement pistons in a 292-based engine. The piston top will be far below the surface of the block, which leads to many problems. It wouldn't be prudent or economical to try to deck the block that much, particularly so when you can solve the problem by using alternate rods which are easy to find.

Regards, Homespun91

 

I stand corrected, that's the risk of being on forum @ 1:00 AM. Thx. for the articles again, they're invaluable. I've read them from stem to stern.

Keep on Truckin, David

 

Howdy Glen,


My 239 had the "14 tooth" cam so it was an easy swap. I had to replace the drive shaft and oil pump also but my oil pressure seemed a little weak so I thought it was a good thing to do. As it turns out the oil pump is not at fault. I think the engine is just a little worn out.

THe Pertronix set up is outstanding. I'll never go back to points!

I also rebuilt the carb with a $20 kit and it all runs fine now.

I suppose I'll put the load-O-matic and oil pump/shaft on EBAY to get rid of it. There's nothing wrong with it at all except that the dist needs a new vac advance actuator. I suppose someone will want it!


Eventually I'll replace the whole engine and trans with something COMPLETELY different! That will come much later...



Regards,

Rick

 

At the risk of going on an on about this, is the pin that holds the gear in place a tapered pin or straight? That would make a difference on which way to drive it out! I guess I can find a new pin somewhere! Or did you reuse the old one? If you did, did you use any kind of "locktite" substance?

 

The pin is straight