Tire fit?
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Tire fit?
1995 f-150 4x4
Recently while shopping for tires and lift kits I was pricing a 2" suspension lift but was told by the shop thatmy truck with the quad shock front end has taller springs which is equivalent to a 2 inch lift.
Several online tire fitment guides show that a 33x12.50 tire will fit my truck w/ a 2 inch lift. SO will 33's fit my truck as is? I currently run 31x10.50 BFG AT's on the factory 15x7.5 rims.
Recently while shopping for tires and lift kits I was pricing a 2" suspension lift but was told by the shop thatmy truck with the quad shock front end has taller springs which is equivalent to a 2 inch lift.
Several online tire fitment guides show that a 33x12.50 tire will fit my truck w/ a 2 inch lift. SO will 33's fit my truck as is? I currently run 31x10.50 BFG AT's on the factory 15x7.5 rims.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
The 33s would fit with the 2" lift. They would be a smidge bit tight by my standards, but enough room that they would clear. They'd probably rub on the radius arm at full turn but thats what happens to all of us, almost unavoidable. It's nto that big of a deal, most just change the setting on the steering lock so it won't actually turn that far.
A truck with quad shocks is just as tall as a truck w/o them. It's just that...optional 2nd shock.
A truck with quad shocks is just as tall as a truck w/o them. It's just that...optional 2nd shock.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
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I had a Rancho 4" lift installed with new lenghtened radius arms on my '93(Done in '95).
The 33 x 12.50 tires fit well with this lift and have plenty of "air" around them ( I don't like the look of tires crammed into wheel openings).
The tire do rub on the radius arms ONLY when backing up and the steering is at full lock.
I don't think I'd be too happy with these tires if I had anything less than 4" of lift.
This might not happen if the stock radius arms had been retained.
The 33 x 12.50 tires fit well with this lift and have plenty of "air" around them ( I don't like the look of tires crammed into wheel openings).
The tire do rub on the radius arms ONLY when backing up and the steering is at full lock.
I don't think I'd be too happy with these tires if I had anything less than 4" of lift.
This might not happen if the stock radius arms had been retained.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Originally Posted by McLeod
The tire do rub on the radius arms ONLY when backing up and the steering is at full lock.
I don't think I'd be too happy with these tires if I had anything less than 4" of lift.
I don't think I'd be too happy with these tires if I had anything less than 4" of lift.
It's gotten a lot worse then it used to be. I lost about an inch in my front suspension when I swapped out the 302/M5OD trans for the 393/ZF trans. Which is also making me rub my fender a lot more often.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
One more note 33x12.50 tires(per my experience).
The disc brake fluid lines rub the tires occasionally. I have to keep eye on them. I ended up spliting a heavy fuel line in half and zip tieing to the brake lines to help protect them.
One more down side is that the wheels have so much offset that the "pivot point" of the turning radius is located inboard of the wheels resulting in the wheels "arcing" on the pavement when steering. Ideally the pivot point should be located near the point where the rubber meets the road. No big deal for hiway driving, but lower speed manuevering results in excessive force being placed on steering components and the frame area around the steering box.
I had to have the steering box / frame area rebuilt twice in 50K miles of driving. The last time they opened up frame area and really beefed it up. No probs after that.
Have Fun!
The disc brake fluid lines rub the tires occasionally. I have to keep eye on them. I ended up spliting a heavy fuel line in half and zip tieing to the brake lines to help protect them.
One more down side is that the wheels have so much offset that the "pivot point" of the turning radius is located inboard of the wheels resulting in the wheels "arcing" on the pavement when steering. Ideally the pivot point should be located near the point where the rubber meets the road. No big deal for hiway driving, but lower speed manuevering results in excessive force being placed on steering components and the frame area around the steering box.
I had to have the steering box / frame area rebuilt twice in 50K miles of driving. The last time they opened up frame area and really beefed it up. No probs after that.
Have Fun!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
I have skyjacker extended brake lines and flipped my calipers so that it would put a twist in the brake line. I do not have them wire tied, didn't want them rubbing on anything, so they just sit in air and when you turn the wheels side to side they don't rub.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
Originally Posted by MustangGT221
I have skyjacker extended brake lines and flipped my calipers so that it would put a twist in the brake line. I do not have them wire tied, didn't want them rubbing on anything, so they just sit in air and when you turn the wheels side to side they don't rub.
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