sputtering after sparkplug change
#1
sputtering after sparkplug change
hello all. wondering if you can help me out. i have a 2000 excursion 4x4 with the v10 and i changed plugs in it recently. first of all i took out the original motorcraft ones and put in cheapy champion plugs. it ran fine the whole time they were in there. then i decided to see if i would get a difference by switching to bosch platinum plus 2's. so i went to it and got the first six done. three on each side. i ran out of time and patience on the last four so i left them. well about 2 days later it started to sputter under a light load like starting from a light. then it gradually got worse. i thought, is it possible that it is sputtering because of the different kinds of plugs in there? so i changed the rest and it still sputtered. so i went and bought 2 more plugs and pulled them all again to see if i could change the culprit one. i found one of the plugs slightly different than the rest so i installed the new one in there. it made it run better but then about 2 weeks later, same thing. now it doesn't sputter, because i think that one cylinder is just dead!! not as much power as it had before. anyone have any ideas about these plugs? maybe v10's cant handle these? i paid about $9 bucks a piece for these damn things so.....maybe i will just go with the motorcraft ones again. or maybe its coil going and it cant spark far enough across the gaps???
thanks
clarence
thanks
clarence
#2
I would check the gaps FIRST. If you just put them in, they may be off a little. Also, chech the wires for any corrosion, there may have been some on there and when you changed them they may not be making good contact. Other than that, you may want to replace the wires as well. Old wires can break and just the bending from replacing the plugs may have done that. If you have a volmeter, check the continuoty of your wires and what kind of load they are passing.
I doubt it's the coil, that would cause everything to run like crap, not just one cylinder.
I doubt it's the coil, that would cause everything to run like crap, not just one cylinder.
#3
Everyone seems to come to the same conclusion: The Bosch's DO NOT WORK in Ford's modulars for some reason.
The BEST plug is the original Motorcraft, according to people on here.
I haven't done mine yet (long overdue based on age, not mileage) and plan on using Motorcrafts.
I've used the Autolite's in my 4.6L's, but not sure what that means, or if I'd want to use Autolites in my V10, but there it is.
art k.
The BEST plug is the original Motorcraft, according to people on here.
I haven't done mine yet (long overdue based on age, not mileage) and plan on using Motorcrafts.
I've used the Autolite's in my 4.6L's, but not sure what that means, or if I'd want to use Autolites in my V10, but there it is.
art k.
#4
Originally Posted by BFR250SD
I would check the gaps FIRST. If you just put them in, they may be off a little. Also, chech the wires for any corrosion, there may have been some on there and when you changed them they may not be making good contact. Other than that, you may want to replace the wires as well. Old wires can break and just the bending from replacing the plugs may have done that. If you have a volmeter, check the continuoty of your wires and what kind of load they are passing.
I doubt it's the coil, that would cause everything to run like crap, not just one cylinder.
I doubt it's the coil, that would cause everything to run like crap, not just one cylinder.
Just trying to keep the misinformation to a low roar...
#5
Originally Posted by krewat
Everyone seems to come to the same conclusion: The Bosch's DO NOT WORK in Ford's modulars for some reason.
The BEST plug is the original Motorcraft, according to people on here.
I haven't done mine yet (long overdue based on age, not mileage) and plan on using Motorcrafts.
I've used the Autolite's in my 4.6L's, but not sure what that means, or if I'd want to use Autolites in my V10, but there it is.
art k.
The BEST plug is the original Motorcraft, according to people on here.
I haven't done mine yet (long overdue based on age, not mileage) and plan on using Motorcrafts.
I've used the Autolite's in my 4.6L's, but not sure what that means, or if I'd want to use Autolites in my V10, but there it is.
art k.
There are 10 coils on the V10, one right on top of each spark plug (COP - Coil on Plug). NO spark plug WIRES.
Just trying to keep the misinformation to a low roar...
Just trying to keep the misinformation to a low roar...
00excdiesel,
You may have damaged a coil or its wiring or connector in some way. I suppose you have no Check Engine light yet?
#6
#7
I'm confused. I know my V-10 owner's manual says for normal maintenance to change the plugs at 100,000 miles. But what are the prospects of the plugs corroding to the point that removal is difficult, even if the plug continues to work just fine? Seems to me that 50,000 would be a better bet... the cost of the plugs certainly isn't an issue.
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by BareBones
I'm confused. I know my V-10 owner's manual says for normal maintenance to change the plugs at 100,000 miles. But what are the prospects of the plugs corroding to the point that removal is difficult, even if the plug continues to work just fine? Seems to me that 50,000 would be a better bet... the cost of the plugs certainly isn't an issue.
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
However, all of my vehicles are very low mileage - the '96 t-bird 4.6L: 55K miles when I sold it to my sister. '97 Cougar, 21K miles, bought with 6K miles on it as a "demo". Yes, only 15K miles on it so far '01 F250 V10, only 20K miles so far, for the three years I've had it.
Basically, if you pull the plugs, put them back with anti-sieze, and dielectric grease. That should solve most of the "corrosion" problems.
art k.
#9
Originally Posted by BareBones
I'm confused. I know my V-10 owner's manual says for normal maintenance to change the plugs at 100,000 miles. But what are the prospects of the plugs corroding to the point that removal is difficult, even if the plug continues to work just fine? Seems to me that 50,000 would be a better bet... the cost of the plugs certainly isn't an issue.
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
Has any one experienced corroded plugs, or is this just a bygone issue?
#10
i am in the middle of changing them back to motorcraft now. i talked to the dealer and he said that jap plugs like that just dont mix with this engine. no big deal. i paid 9 per plug for the bosch and 5 for the motorcraft so my suggestion would be to get the ones they recommend . ill let you know what it acts like when i am done.
oh by the way i test drove a 2005 6.0 last night. the dealer brought it to me to test it out. retail price 72,000 cdn but with the rebate for employee pricing it was going to be 62,000 cdn plus taxes. i am taking in mine on friday to get it appraised at the dealer then we will go from there. tehe tehe!!!!
clarence
oh by the way i test drove a 2005 6.0 last night. the dealer brought it to me to test it out. retail price 72,000 cdn but with the rebate for employee pricing it was going to be 62,000 cdn plus taxes. i am taking in mine on friday to get it appraised at the dealer then we will go from there. tehe tehe!!!!
clarence
#11
Originally Posted by 00excdiesel
i am in the middle of changing them back to motorcraft now. i talked to the dealer and he said that jap plugs like that just dont mix with this engine. no big deal. i paid 9 per plug for the bosch and 5 for the motorcraft so my suggestion would be to get the ones they recommend . ill let you know what it acts like when i am done.
oh by the way i test drove a 2005 6.0 last night. the dealer brought it to me to test it out. retail price 72,000 cdn but with the rebate for employee pricing it was going to be 62,000 cdn plus taxes. i am taking in mine on friday to get it appraised at the dealer then we will go from there. tehe tehe!!!!
clarence
oh by the way i test drove a 2005 6.0 last night. the dealer brought it to me to test it out. retail price 72,000 cdn but with the rebate for employee pricing it was going to be 62,000 cdn plus taxes. i am taking in mine on friday to get it appraised at the dealer then we will go from there. tehe tehe!!!!
clarence
FYI, the 'cheap' (even though they were $9) plugs don't hold up for some reason in Ford motors. I dunno why, I dunno how, I just know they don't. I'd bet you have some hairline cracks on the insulators, take a close look just FWIW. $62K cdn ? YOWZERS, that's still BIG money even with the conversion.
#13
Originally Posted by 00excdiesel
oh by the way i test drove a 2005 6.0 last night. the dealer brought it to me to test it out. retail price 72,000 cdn but with the rebate for employee pricing it was going to be 62,000 cdn plus taxes. i am taking in mine on friday to get it appraised at the dealer then we will go from there. tehe tehe!!!!
clarence
clarence
OBTW...that is a lot of "coin" for a truck...not just in cdn...but anywhere...WOW!
#14
before i owned this truck i owned a 2003 6.0 sd exc cab short box 1 ton with single rear wheels. i went through the typical teething problems with the computer reflashes that you hear everyone talking about. the reason i traded is because i now have 2 kids and a 90 lbs. dog who is a suck and does not like the cold. he is a wuss. i dont see what is wrong with -42 celcius where i live at a 110 kph!!!! for the imperial guys thats roughly 70mph and -44 degrees f.!
#15