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I just rebuilt my 460 and my truck is back on the road. I have a small oil leak, just a few drops. I believe that it is the rear main seal. I’m wondering what I did wrong. Was I supposed to use sealer where the upper & lower halves meet? One friend thought that I should have rotated the seal so that the split in the seal was not exactly in line with the split between the bearing cap and the block. I’m not sure I’m going to pull the motor to fix this small leak, but if I do I want to do it right this time. Any advice on proper installation of the rear main seal is appreciated.
I always offset the split of the seal about 1/4' from the split of the main cap. Also I always use an anarobic sealer between the cap, and the block (permatex calls it gasket maker in little tubes about like threadlocker, and you can get it from NAPA)
you can leave the motor in the truck =, but you have to pull the tranny, and transfercase (if you have a 4x4), it's up to you to pick the lesser of the two evils, and with a two piece seal it is best to stagger the split so that it is different than the split in the main cap
I can pull the tranny & transfer case easy. I made a device to attach to the tranny mount to my floor jack. That part is easy, but is there going to be room to get the oil pan off without pulling the motor? Also how do I get the upper seal out without pulling the crank.
You dont have to pull the motor or the tranny if you can get the pan off. Just pull the rear main cap half the seal is in the rear main cap and half is in the block.
Leadmic
Could also be just the pan gasket. The rubber piece in the rear of the pan is a leak source, particularly if gasket sealer was not applied at each end. I really goop up that area while trying not to get very much inside the pan. I also apply silicon sealer to the surface of the rubber before install. If you left enough rear main seal sticking out of the main cap, maybe 1/16th or so you probably will be OK because it will crush together and seal. If you cut both ends flush with the surface of the cap and block it can leak because it can't crush into position. Hope it is a real easy fix-by the way I have seen new rebuilds leak oil in various spots for a while and then suddenly stop leaking. Alex
I think it might be the pan gasget. I used a 1 piece rubber gasget so I did not use sealer. I'm going to look closer tonight. I bought some flouresent dye to be sure where the oil is comming from.
has anyone tried danf150's method, could you just drop the oil pan remove the rear main cap, and then tap the other half of the seal around and out with a small chisel?? just a thought
OK! Because it is so tight in there its hard to see whats leaking, even with dye. You might double check pan bolt tightness. You can tighten them too tight causing the rubber gasket to kind of squirt out around the bolts allowing leaks. In general if you remove the torque conv bolt access plate and reach up inside the adapter plate and get oil its the main seal but if oil is running down the front of the adapter plate and onto the access plate, its the pan gasket. Not always true, but a starting point. Good Luck
I think I fixed it. I was just about to pour the dye into the engine and I saw some oil coming out from the back of the valve cover. My valve cover bolts loosened up and with a gloss black engine it's not so easy to see the leak, and it was only a few drops, but I tightened it back down & just got back from a 15 mile test drive and it's clean!! Those tin valve covers are tough tighten the bolts too tight and they deform, too loose and they back out.
Now I just have to reuild my transfer case as that is also leaking and making noises.
Well, I lucked out on this one! Thanks! So happy it's not the rear main. I guess it's like the first year medical student thinking it's a tumor when it's just a headache.
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