Does anyone know of an alignment tool that can be used at the house. Bending the end of the i-beam for chamber adjustment is my problem.

Robert P.

 

You don't need to bend the I-beam. I've heard of that before, it's a hack. An alignment shop tried to tell me that's the only way I could align my other truck after lifting it. BS.

You can buy camber adjustment nuts in larger degree angles than stock. The stock is 1 degree pos/neg...you can get 2 or 3 degree ones.

 

What year truck?

 

I beams were on 80-96 2wds.

 

that style has the ball joints, so they can be adjusted, but what about the oder twin I beam fronts on the 2wd's? They only had kingpins...

 

Never dealt with the kingpin version, how were those adjusted for camber?

 

that was the ones that had to have the I beam bent... just wanted to be sure you knew more about it than I did... the early version was a variation of the old straight axles, and they were essentially nonalignable, other than by bending the axle itself. The 80-up had the ball joints that come with a camber kit after the original is replaced.

 

In my next garage, I'm going to build a system for it- a flip up d-ring anchored in the floor under one of the lifts. put the truck on the lift, put a stand under one side of the I-beam, anchor one end, connect a chainfall to the other, and haul away. Not very precise way to do it, but there really aren't any alternatives. I'm still waiting for somebody to come out with a cam bolt for the bushing end.

 

Theres your million-dollar idea Ford_Six...

Make it!

 

I've often fantasized about an adjuster for the bushing end of the beloved Twin I-Beam. As a toolmaker, I could make it happen pretty easily. I wonder if a cam (eccentric) bolt would have enough travel?

 

I have used a level on the brake rotor on the gm stuff to get the camber close. With the weight of the truck sitting on the very outer end of the axle. I DO NOT KNOW IF IT WILL WORK ON A FORD.

 

Go to a good alignment shop that has the proper bender (big truck shop) for I beams and copy it, make your own. Is this worth the trouble like your bending beams all the time? I've had two trucks over the last 34 years and paid to have the beams bent once. One truck was T-boned over the left front fender, beam wasted, got another and bent it in a hydraulic press, installed and measured error and bent more. Yes a few remounts with beam, pin spindle, spring and wheel but got it perfect with a machinists level. Anything can be done with alot of effort.
.....=o&o>.....

 

Sorry, this post was referring to a Kingpin model. I thought of the 20 ton jack attached to a plate that would wrap around the top part of the beam.
I called two shops here around town and they both said they would torch them to bend them. NNOOTT.
Beemer, I'll take your advice and call a "big" shop in Dallas. They should lead me in a direction.
I'll keep this idea in the back of my mind. Just can't throw away an opportunity to build something.


Robert P.

 

I have seen shops screw up the old style I-Beam by bending it in the wrong place and by heating it. Both ways are a definate NOT. The bend should be as close to the knuckle as possible and it should be COLD bent.

A pair of chains with one wrapped around midpoint and one near the knuckle with a flat I-Beam below will work. Use a 10 tone hydraulic jack near the knuckle and be careful. It does not take much to correct the camber.

Usually after this repair the caster is off and tilted to the front, which makes driving it a beast. The caster can be corrected by removing the rear hanger and placing washers between the hanger and frame. Do not over do it. Maximum five washers. You will have to center punch and drill out (NO TORCH) the rivets and make the upper hole a little oblong so the bolt will go through. Use only class 7 or 8 bolts, lock washers and fasterners on the hanger. You will also need to place a slide washer on the top mount on the inside of the frame to avoid a stress crack.

I have done this many times (in my younger years working in a bodyshop). It takes approximate three hours to do it correct and I did it with the old style camber caster gauge that fit into the hub.

After that, center the steering wheel, by the way of the gear and set the toein to specs. Load the front. The easiest way is to put about 175 pounds (your fat beer drinking buddy that is no help) on the core support and set the toein 1/16 to 1/8 in on the left and 1/16 in on the right.

Drive it for a day, then take it to a shop with an alignment machine and set it the toein to specs.

 

My 81 F150 had a alignment problem when I first bought it new (especially after driving the Al-Can Highway).

It kept on wearing out the tires on the outer edge.

Brought it to an alignment shop and the guy put my truck on a frame rack, chained down both I-beams and slid a 50 ton hydraulic bottle jack under it.

He basically bent both I-beams.

Never had a problem since.