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The factory gauges are really not too accurate to guess by. Most times if they were in the middle somewhere...you were in "normal" range. As long as you have a std 195 thermostat...you'll be fine.
I'm thinking most point gaps are around .022
Don't think they changed between motors? If you have a dwell meter, you can re-confirm if it reads 28-32.
Call a parts house for the point gap. I don't think .022 is enough but I really don't know. On my 360 the gap was .035 which is why I don't think .022 is enough. A parts house like NAPA or Autozone will tell you in an instant. You can actually go to Autozone.com and shop for the spark plug for your car. It will show you the gap there.
qman I think you are a little confussed. The sparkplug gap is .035. For the points it is tough to say everybody has different recommendations. Some books say .022, some say .018, and a mechanic I know says .015, I usually go around .018. seems to run good for my 302 and depending how I drive it can almost get 20 MPG !!!!!! can not argue with that.
Oh yah, sorry, I was thinking spark plug gap. The point gap on my 360 was .018. He can still call a parts house and get the gap. That's where I got mine. He can still shop for points on autozone.com and the page will list the gap.
Got to get my .02 worth of advice in about points. I used to go thru points regularly and was always adjusting it seemed like. Since installing a Pertronix system into my diz, I havent touched it in the 7 yrs its been in. Well worth about $70.
The only way to know the real operating temp is with an aftermarket guage. All of the many I have owned or driven always sat on or below the halfway mark, typically. Your sending unit is a likely culprit.
I think that there are, three different thermostats available, 160, 180, and 195. Jake, i see live in NY, the 195 is probably right, that is probably what is in there, You can find out if open your radiator cap and hold a thermometer in the radiator while idleing the truck, watch the temp and watch for the thermostat to open.
You can use a meat thermometer, dial or digital, both under $10.
BTW If it gets to about 110*F shut it off. it will run hotter than normal because your not driving around to push air through your rad.
You can start at .018 or .022 for the points to get the vehicle started. Then you use your dwell meter to set it to spec. Probably 26-30 on your engine. The dwell meter is the proper way to set points, not the gap, imo.
about point gap.... seems that using a feeler gauge is useless, better to set the gap by sight then turn the distributer till it idles right given that the idle speed was correct before you played with the points, i then back it off till it stops pinging. usuallly only takes a little bit to get it right. i also leave my distributer bolt just loose enought that i can turn it by hand or with a screwdriver incase i need too play with it by the roadside. just my 2cents