Need help on this rough running problem
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Need help on this rough running problem
Guys, I need help in the worst way..
I thought my original problems were corrected after a few days of all OK but after a vacation away and then starting the truck again, my problems are still there.
When starting the truck it starts just fine, idles OK for about ½ to 1 minute and then about ½ the time, it runs really rough coughing and lurching and spits blue smoke for a few seconds and then stalls. The rpm’s register and it can’t be affected by the throttle pedal. I usually get the CEL light but no codes show. This happens mostly when engine is at ambient temp but sometimes also after it has been running hot and only a 45 stop period. I am about to pull my hair out on this one….
I have checked: the oil level, the oil level in the HPOP, water in fuel, all fuses out of the box, the glow plugs, the UVC harnesses, all connectors visual and for water and other, ikntake blockage, chip seating(Banks), codes, fuel heater/water in fuel sense, etc.
I have changed: oil and filter, fuel filter, fuel, CPS, IDM relay, GP relay, IDM O-rings.
I have no gauges or scanner at this time.
I am thinking maybe air in fuel line, or ICP sensor, or PCM, or bad O-ring on injector, or I don’t know what else.
I thought my original problems were corrected after a few days of all OK but after a vacation away and then starting the truck again, my problems are still there.
When starting the truck it starts just fine, idles OK for about ½ to 1 minute and then about ½ the time, it runs really rough coughing and lurching and spits blue smoke for a few seconds and then stalls. The rpm’s register and it can’t be affected by the throttle pedal. I usually get the CEL light but no codes show. This happens mostly when engine is at ambient temp but sometimes also after it has been running hot and only a 45 stop period. I am about to pull my hair out on this one….
I have checked: the oil level, the oil level in the HPOP, water in fuel, all fuses out of the box, the glow plugs, the UVC harnesses, all connectors visual and for water and other, ikntake blockage, chip seating(Banks), codes, fuel heater/water in fuel sense, etc.
I have changed: oil and filter, fuel filter, fuel, CPS, IDM relay, GP relay, IDM O-rings.
I have no gauges or scanner at this time.
I am thinking maybe air in fuel line, or ICP sensor, or PCM, or bad O-ring on injector, or I don’t know what else.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
It might be worth the money to invest in a programmer like the Predator that reads codes and run around with it plugged in so it can capture the live data. Then you would be able to know what's turning on that SES light. Plus you get a fast truck too! 
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,769
Likes: 95
From: Phoenix, AZ
If you are doing this work yourself and plan on doing so in the future it may be a wise and cost affective to purchase a quality diagnostic tool to troubleshoot your PSD. I recommend the Auto Enginuity software.
I would pull the chip and eliminate that possibility and get a good scan next.
Perhaps a bad fuel pump or a bad "O"ring at the fuel bowl conection?
I would pull the chip and eliminate that possibility and get a good scan next.
Perhaps a bad fuel pump or a bad "O"ring at the fuel bowl conection?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Thanks HeatStroked for the info. How much would this tool cost me and where to buy it??
BTW, probably forgot to mention before, I did pull the Banks chip and nothing changed in rough running symptoms.
I did think I could see a small amount of fuel leaking out around the fuel filter cap(just barely noticeable in the crack) could this be something??
I could not see anything leaking around the fuel line connection at side of fuel bowl. Would I notice any symptoms with a bad "O"ring at the fuel bowl conection?
Could a bad fuel pump make it only run rough just after start up??
BTW, probably forgot to mention before, I did pull the Banks chip and nothing changed in rough running symptoms.
I did think I could see a small amount of fuel leaking out around the fuel filter cap(just barely noticeable in the crack) could this be something??
I could not see anything leaking around the fuel line connection at side of fuel bowl. Would I notice any symptoms with a bad "O"ring at the fuel bowl conection?
Could a bad fuel pump make it only run rough just after start up??
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Florida
Updated with other notes:
Originally Posted by Big Red 00 F350
Guys, I need help in the worst way..
I thought my original problems were corrected after a few days of all OK but after a vacation away and then starting the truck again, my problems are still there.
When starting the truck it starts just fine, idles OK for about ½ to 1 minute and then about ½ the time, it runs really rough coughing and lurching and spits blue smoke for a few seconds and then stalls. The rpm’s register and it can’t be affected by the throttle pedal. I usually get the CEL light but no codes show. This happens mostly when engine is at ambient temp but sometimes also after it has been running hot and only a 45 stop period. I am about to pull my hair out on this one….
I have checked: the oil level, the oil level in the HPOP, water in fuel, all fuses out of the box, the glow plugs, the UVC harnesses, all connectors visual and for water and other, ikntake blockage, chip seating(Banks), codes, fuel heater/water in fuel sense. Pulled the Banks chip and no change. I did see a small amount of fuel leakage just in the crack of the fuel filter cap (could this be something??)
I have changed: oil and filter, fuel filter, fuel, CPS, IDM relay, GP relay, IDM O-rings.
Today also my horn would not work and checked fuse and OK and only thing on this fuse so maybe a coincidence only...
I have no gauges or scanner at this time.
I am thinking maybe air in fuel line, or ICP sensor, or PCM, or bad O-ring on injector, or I don’t know what else.
I thought my original problems were corrected after a few days of all OK but after a vacation away and then starting the truck again, my problems are still there.
When starting the truck it starts just fine, idles OK for about ½ to 1 minute and then about ½ the time, it runs really rough coughing and lurching and spits blue smoke for a few seconds and then stalls. The rpm’s register and it can’t be affected by the throttle pedal. I usually get the CEL light but no codes show. This happens mostly when engine is at ambient temp but sometimes also after it has been running hot and only a 45 stop period. I am about to pull my hair out on this one….
I have checked: the oil level, the oil level in the HPOP, water in fuel, all fuses out of the box, the glow plugs, the UVC harnesses, all connectors visual and for water and other, ikntake blockage, chip seating(Banks), codes, fuel heater/water in fuel sense. Pulled the Banks chip and no change. I did see a small amount of fuel leakage just in the crack of the fuel filter cap (could this be something??)
I have changed: oil and filter, fuel filter, fuel, CPS, IDM relay, GP relay, IDM O-rings.
Today also my horn would not work and checked fuse and OK and only thing on this fuse so maybe a coincidence only...
I have no gauges or scanner at this time.
I am thinking maybe air in fuel line, or ICP sensor, or PCM, or bad O-ring on injector, or I don’t know what else.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 10
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Get your hands on laser temp gun. point it at the exhaust manifold and read the temp @ each exhaust port and get reading. you will able to see if a cyl is firing or not. I came across couple of engine where the valve cover gasket needed to replace because the wiring harness was fried. the harness is connected to the gasket. goodluck! dc
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Originally Posted by derekc
Get your hands on laser temp gun. point it at the exhaust manifold and read the temp @ each exhaust port and get reading. you will able to see if a cyl is firing or not. I came across couple of engine where the valve cover gasket needed to replace because the wiring harness was fried. the harness is connected to the gasket. goodluck! dc
thanks for the input but as I had posted originally, I have checked each UVC harness already. This included a very thorough inspection in and out of the vehicle and connectors including all pins and connections, etc. No evidence at all of damaged or loose in fact, the harnesses ohmed out good when out of vehicle and moving around and looked as good as new... Just can't believe they are a problem. I will keep your point in mind however about the laser temp gun. Have used before at work but not on my PSD. Good idea....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Florida
yes, Max1775 I agree with your thoughts but I changed the IPR o-rings and no change. HeatStroke suggested the fuel regulator o-ring damaged so I will change that out and see. Then, I will try the IPC if that does nothing...
Thanks
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
From: Helotes, Texas
Sorry about that. I abbreviate everything (my typing is a bit slow, lol). The IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) is located on the HPOP. The ICP (Injector Control Pressure sensor) Is located on the driver's side HP oil rail.
Max
On edit, HPOP is the High Pressure Oil Pump that feeds High Pressure oil to the rails that drive the injectors.
Max
On edit, HPOP is the High Pressure Oil Pump that feeds High Pressure oil to the rails that drive the injectors.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Update as of Monday afternoon 7/25.
Purchased and installed fuel regulator repair kit today. It inlcuded the piston cup with o-ring, poppet valve, spring, and cap o-ring. No problems so far but will have to test further. Also bought and connected gauge and measured fuel pressure at 60 psi. Also ordered the ICP sensor to be here tomorrow if the fuel regulator kit did not correct my problems.
Purchased and installed fuel regulator repair kit today. It inlcuded the piston cup with o-ring, poppet valve, spring, and cap o-ring. No problems so far but will have to test further. Also bought and connected gauge and measured fuel pressure at 60 psi. Also ordered the ICP sensor to be here tomorrow if the fuel regulator kit did not correct my problems.