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I've got an 87 F250 with EFI 302 and 4spd stick. I just did the retro R12 to R134a swap. I also bought new o-ring gaskets and replaced a broken one in the quick connector line. The R134a kit already has the Ester oil in it, and I also got an extra bottle with the new o-rings I bought, but only put like 1oz in since I really didn't need it.
The system hasn't been run in a real long time because when my dad owned it, he paid a guy to fix it, and the guy replaced an o-ring gasket and then recharged it, but it ended up leaking all the R12 right back out, so he said screw fixing it again. As above, I did find a broken o-ring gasket and fixed it.
After charging up the system, it really isn't cooling much at all. I barely get a coolness out of the AC vents on max. under the hood, nothing seems cold to the touch, but up by the fan/blower, I can see it is pretty cool in there as I'm getting the cold AC sweat/drip of water coming out of it.
What to check next to get this thing blowing cold ASAP?
I'm assuming that you pulled a vacuum with a pump before you charged it. My 134 conversion is nice and cool.
As for vacuum, I just turned on the AC to max cool as the directions said do.. The compressor was kicking on for 2 secs and kicking off while I was trying to fill the system. I took a can of liquid wrench and sprayed between the clutch and drove it after I charged the system and it started working.
What psi should the system be at after charging it? Anything else to check or test?
I think you have air in your system. Why would you spray liquid wrench on the clutch?
After you purge the system of air, you first put the oil charge in, then the first Freon can, start the truck and let it idle on fast idle, on MAX COOL, and continue adding freon. Go by what your gauge tells you... Mine has worked just fine since 9/04.
Replace the orifice tube and accumulator. The accumulator collects moisture from the system and could be "full" from sitting with bad o-rings and being opened up to replace them. When I did the conversion on my '89 I used a red orifice tube and vacuumed the system down. I get 38* to 42* vent temps in 90*+ outside temps while driving and it runs at 55* at idle.
I have that red orifice tube, but I didn't install it.
I don't have anything to apply vacuum with, so I wonder how much it would cost to just have R12 put back in? How much for someone to put the R134a in correctly -- applying vacuum?
Where is the condenser? Is that the thing in front of the radiator?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm a total n00b with AC systems.
Condenser: Located in front of the radiator behind the front grille.
Evaporator: The coil that is inside the heater box. This coil is the one that cools down the air that is blown through it.
The accumulator is the round tank that is installed on the engine side of the heater box. The extra freon is stored there, and there is a thing called a dryer that removes residual moisture from the system. Freon and moisture equals death.
You need to drain the system again and pull a vacuum before you recharge it. You must get all of the air and moisture out of your system. Call around to some of your local mechanics. One of them might do an evacuation for $15 or so, if you are lucky. Then, take it home and put in the freon again. Hopefully, you will be dealing with a mechanic that can reclaim your freon for you. This will save you some money.
Dont spray anything in your air conditioner clutch. Ever.
R12 is going to cost alot more than R134 currently does. But, the way things are going, R134 is just going to get more and more expensive as time goes by.
Last edited by Holmesuser01; Jul 24, 2005 at 04:29 PM.
An AC shop only charges $25-$35 to evacuate and recharge an AC system plus the Freon. They will put in precisely the 80% of the old R12's weight and it will perform perfectly.
Screwing it yourself is pennywise but pound foolish.