I'm trying to put in a new intermediate parking brake cable on my '93 F-150. I cannot see a simple starightforward way to do this. I can't get enough slack in the cable to fit the new ends in their places. What's the secret? Please help....

 

im having the same problem with mine seems to be about 1/2 and inch

 

It's the retarded automatic slack adjuster in the pedal asembly, like Ford figured it was too difficult to climb under the truck every couple of years...... I unbolted mine from the dash/kick panel and threw the damned thing out (after it toasted my rear drums) I'm going to try and retrofit an older manual one....

 

im having the same problem with mine seems to be about 1/2 and inch short

 

Mine Broke The Metal Block The One That Holds Both Lines And I Bought A New One But Cant Put It Back

 

Got it. The slack adjuster... what a pain in the butt!!! It took me hours to figure it out. Any one dealing with the same thing, you have to remove a little white plastic piece that locks the slack aduster ratchet. Once the white plastic thing is out, you can yank on the cable that's attached to the parking brake pedal and pull out about two inches of slack.

 

It also took me several hours to figure it out, the reference manuals were of little help,
but, if it were easy, anyone could do it.

 

HMMM, care to elaborate? I just dug mine out of the barrel out back and the only white plastic piece I can find on it is the switch....
I think the return spring on mine is shot as well, does your pedal return to the stop when you pull the lever (without the cable on it?)

 

actually there is two holes that line up on the pedal assembly that if you stick a nail in it will allow the slack that you need to install the new cable.

Removal

2. Remove the cowl side trim panel (02344).

3. Disconnect the parking brake signal switch and bracket connector at the parking brake control (2780).

4. Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull directly rearward on the intermediate cable until all front parking brake cable and conduit (2853) is unwound from the parking brake control. Be careful not to damage the coating on the parking brake cable.

5. Insert a 4mm (0.156 in.) drill bit or equivalent size pin into the hole provided in the parking brake control. This holds the slack.

Cable and Conduit, Intermediate


Removal of cable

1. Remove the LH cowl side panel (02038).

2. To gain the needed slack, have an assistant pull the intermediate cable toward the rear of the vehicle.

3. While the assistant holds the intermediate cable, insert a 4mm (0.156 in.) pin into the hole provided in the parking brake control (2780).



4. Disconnect the intermediate cable from the cable connector.



5. Disconnect the intermediate cable from the parking brake cable equalizer.

 

Ford installed those plastic wedges as part of a recall to keep the parking brake pedal from blowing through the ratcheting mechanism and causing the driver to believe that brake was set when in reality it wasnt.

 

Pony racer...that's interesting. As far as the book that I was using for service, it was a Haynes Repair Manual. There was absolutely nothing in it about servicing the parking brake cable.

 

That is from the Factory Ford Manuals on CD and DVD. Haynes is the better of the aftermarket but nothing is like the factory manuals!! This is also from my 11 years as a Ford factory Master technician at a local dealership. I hope this helps you all!

 

I'm replacing the intermediate cable on my 95 F350 Crew. I have TOO MUCH slack in the cable -- no tension. How do you put tension back on the cable?? Thanks

 

Beu,

I don't know if the setup is similar between my 93 F-150 and your 95 F-350, but, for what it's worth, my cable problems had to do with an "automatic" cable tensioner that I did not fully understand. If your cable setup is like mine, then applying pressure to the e-brake pedal should take up the slack. My main cable struggle seems to have to do with a little white plastic piece that Ford stuck in the works to keep the "automatic" tensioner from slipping back on its little ratchet teeth. It may be that you have to pull the plastic piece out with a pair af needle nose pliers to make the tensioner work.

 

The slack adjuster in the pedal assembly should take care of it.....the spring in yours is likely shot.....
With the pedal in the up (released) position, you should be able to pull the cable out a few inches against the spring.... I got a second hand assembly from a wrecker for mine and it works ok now.