stalling after start
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stalling after start
Over the last week I just recently started having a problem. Last Saturday, I started my van and then it died right away. I started it again, stepped on the gas a little and it stayed started. It drove fine. It has now gotten to the point that I need to step on the gas when I start it and slightly rev it for about the first minute or so before it will keep running on it's own, but at a very rough idle. When I am driving, it is fine. But at stop lights or when stopped on the highway, I will notice the idle drop almost as if it wants to stall then. I've asked my bf to look at it several times, but I don't think he's looking at the right things. He's more looking at spark plugs, distributor cap....and from the reading I've done, it sounds like it might be the IAC. Could someone please tell me where it is located on the 93 Ford Aerostar so that we can check it? Also, does that sound like it may be the problem, or could it possibly be something else?
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From: Mitchell, SD
welcome! 
First, loose your bf, he must be a bow tie guy.
Second, what you describe definetly sounds like your IAC going bad. It is a cylinder thing attached on the intake right next to the throttle body.
You did not mention if it is a 3.0 or 4.0?
First, loose your bf, he must be a bow tie guy.
Second, what you describe definetly sounds like your IAC going bad. It is a cylinder thing attached on the intake right next to the throttle body.
You did not mention if it is a 3.0 or 4.0?
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The IAC might be going bad... or it might be sticking. Get some throttle body cleaner (or maybe SeaFoam) and spray into the small side ports next to the butterfly while engine is running.
Since your engine has a MAF sensor (at least a 93 SHOULD, I'd think), you will want to warm the engine, stop it, disconnect the MAF harness, remove the intake tube, then start engine to do it.
If a good spray-down has no effect you need a new actuator at the least.
Wont hurt to clean the MAF while you're at it.
See SeaFoam Deep Creep Thread
{dang! THIRD EDIT!} Just had a thought... my son had a similar problem. My mind must have been clearer then... because I advised him to try removing the MAF harness and seeing how it reacted and drove.
In his case, it didnt stall with the MAF disconnected. So I had him clean the MAF and that fixed it.
Reason I suggest this is that a sticky or bad IAC resulting in low idle means that the car usually wont start easily either.
Since your engine has a MAF sensor (at least a 93 SHOULD, I'd think), you will want to warm the engine, stop it, disconnect the MAF harness, remove the intake tube, then start engine to do it.
If a good spray-down has no effect you need a new actuator at the least.
Wont hurt to clean the MAF while you're at it.
See SeaFoam Deep Creep Thread
{dang! THIRD EDIT!} Just had a thought... my son had a similar problem. My mind must have been clearer then... because I advised him to try removing the MAF harness and seeing how it reacted and drove.
In his case, it didnt stall with the MAF disconnected. So I had him clean the MAF and that fixed it.
Reason I suggest this is that a sticky or bad IAC resulting in low idle means that the car usually wont start easily either.
Last edited by Backyard Mech; Jul 22, 2005 at 09:34 PM.
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OK, bf back. Changed the spark plugs. Won't check the IAC (maybe because of ego) However, this is what it's been doing since....
Starts easier now. Once vehicle is driving and it gets hot, it wants to die. It stalls when pulling into a parking spot, stopping at light, slowing to turn a corner, etc. When I stop at a stop sign, I have noticed the check engine light come on, but then it turns off as I am driving. It's also sucking up the gas
Starts easier now. Once vehicle is driving and it gets hot, it wants to die. It stalls when pulling into a parking spot, stopping at light, slowing to turn a corner, etc. When I stop at a stop sign, I have noticed the check engine light come on, but then it turns off as I am driving. It's also sucking up the gas
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From: Houston,TX
you can pull stored codes from that check engine light, as well, if you can get a code reader... or just use the jumper method described in most manuals. that may point you in a better direction. but the vacuum leak will do just what you describe ....BTW any problems w/ shifting? if so, one line could be to the modulator on the tranny. if not, most likely both are from the PCV tree. pull the doghouse (access panel under the dash) for better access to the rear of the engine. good luck
Gary
Gary
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