We have been trying to figure out this problem for some time now.. For some reason the 05Ex just doesnt have it there.. i thought maybe it was just ours but i see now that we are not the only one.. We took the dash apart looking for these pesky wires with no luck. I am wondering if its just going to have to come down to buying the option from ford or an alarm system that will do it.. It really just bothers me so much because i was able to do it to our 04 SD no problem 15 min with getting everything out to do the job and not to mention it was only about a $3 dollar job,, Now im thinking we might have to go to ford and buy their part and i have heard its $$$$$$$

ryan

 

Have you guys tried posting on flatratetech? (Put the usual http:// in front and the .com at the end) As with this site, they are real informative on some of the wiring details... Just a suggestion.

 

Thanks alot i will give that a try.. appreciate it

ryan

 

Ryan,

I was just reading the body builders SVE bulletin, and thought hmmm maybe they used an E-Series harness on the EXCURSION!
It's way to hot outside (100F) to even think about looking for the harness.
I'll look tonight.

The bulletin said "the wires are in the engine compartment tagged and bundled with the large harness running below the windshield/cowl. Remove some of the plastic harness tape where the harness exits it's plastic support gutter above the engine air induction tube to reveal the blunt cut wires".

Paul

 

Thanks paul let me know how it goes.. you seem to have a good idea on whats going on with it so before i try i am going to let you and if it works out maybe you will be kind enough to help walk me though it... thanks alot

ryan

 

Ryan,
I ordered the schematics for the 2005 Excursion and according to the manual none of the wires for the SEIC are used.
I pulled the center connector from the PCM and sure enough those wires aren't even pinned out of the connector
(pin #'s 5.7.8,12,13,15,16,18,21,24,34,35,38,39,40)
From all the reseach I've done I belive pin # 12 is the same as the solid Orange one would apply switched 12 volts to that would initiate the fast idle sequence.
I'm not an electrical engineer so I hope someone can answer a few questions.
1) would the PCM already be programed to perform the SEIC function?
2) would the other upfitter wires need to be hooked up?
One would assume not since for the quick SEIC install you only apply switched 12 volts to the solid orange wire......

Does anyone have the wireing diagrams for the 2005 F series Super Duty Diesel?

If so could you look and see how many of the above mentioned pins are used coming off of the PCM center connector?

I asked the dealers service department when the Ex was in for service and they didn't have a clue.

Paul

 

I would love to know the Ex over here still doesnt have it in yet after all this time. I wouldnt be surprised if that wire you apply the 12v to old orange is in the PCM bundle..I wouldnt be surprised since FMC sells a mod that you plug in that does the high idle but they call it like the turbo cool down mod or something im not sure but i now that they want some 500 bucks for it. Now to me that seems crazy since your 2004 has a wire sitting there that you just add power to. Or maybe they found our that we figured this special wire out and now they are making it hard on us... Hope i can get it worked out soon for the EX. The superduty is running great with the mod still so..

Keep us updated.

ryan

 

Update......
I stopped by a different dealers service department today to have my fog light repaired. The adjusting nut is stripped out from the factory. One of the fog lights was pointing up way to high. I tried adjusting it with an 1/4" drive 8mm socket on the adjusting screw on the back of the light it just kept turning and turning and turning and the light never moved.

After talking to the service manager for a while I found out their service department is MOD friendly. Lift kit and 36's no problem, just bring it in and they'll calibrate for the larger tires. Exhaust, cold air intake no problem as long as the intake is properly filtering.

I asked him if they had any damaged PCM wiring harnesses laying around that I could have to remove the socket/pins from to add to the Excursions pcm harness so that I could enable the SEIC MOD. The service manager brought me back to the shop asked his diesel tech for a scrap harness. The tech said he would have one next week after labor day and would remove a couple of sockets/pins with the wires. The tech knew exactly what I was talking about and said it would work like I thought. He said all the rescue squads they serviced had the same MOD. He even asked what color wires I needed.

It's great to have found a dealer that listens the customer and respects you and your opinion.

I'll update the post once I complete the MOD. Be patient I'll need to figure out how to add the photos to a gallery and write a technical step by step MOD description.
Paul

 

Ryan and all,

The mod will work on late model excursions. ( It works on mine, SWEET)
Go to your dealer and ask them if they have any warrantied PCM harnesses to obtain your female socket and wire. You'll need this first. I write a walk through tonight and post it.


Paul

 

If you've been following the thread..... I hooked it up tonight and IT WORKS.

All you late model Excusion owners can have SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) and it will only cost you $5.95 and about two hours of your time
(one hour schmoozing your local dealer technician) Here's a brief description.

I highly reccomend if you're not up on the SEIC mod that you shoud do a search and check the tech sections so that you are up to speed with the modification.

Just because this works on my 2005 Excursion 6.0 PSD I have no idea if it will work on yours.
I cannot be held responsable for any oops I just fried what ever.

1)Visit your local dealer with a dozen Dunkin dounuts, and ask the service manager if they have any warrantied PCM hanesses they could cannabilize for you.
(you need one female terminal with wire 2 feet long, any color)

2)Go ahead and install your toggle or I prefer the round rocker switch. The switch will need to be connected to an ignition hot source. Connect the other side of the switch to one of the customer access firewall pass through wires.

3) Remove the drivers side battery cables, battery shield and battery.

4) This will give you access to the PCM. Next you need to remove one of the three PCM connectors. the one you want is the one closest to the fire wall ( connector #C1381a ) To remove the connector push the grey lever on the top of the connector towards the passenger side of the vehical.

5) Once you have the connector removed disassemble the black shroud from the back of the connector to do this gently release the four barbed tabs with a scratch pick and remove the cover.

6) Load a 9/64 bit in your drill, hold the connector horizonally in your left hand, locate the empty socket on the right hand vertical row of sockets, second from the top this is socket # 12. GENTLY drill the socket out ( the back of my connector had some plastic "flash" in it preventing the socket from fitting into the connector.

7) Get out your trusty Hot Melt Glue Gun and pre heat it.

8) Insert the socket salvaged from you local dealer into the back of the connector, oriented the same as the other sockets in that vertical row.
Hot melt glue the socket in place from the back side (the side with the wire)

9) Once the glue dries reinstall the black shroud to the connector, tie wrap your new wire to that connectors bundle and route it towards the firewall
(I fished mine through a new split loom in place already that I had run for my driving lights)

10) Connect your new wire to which ever through the firewall wire you're using.

11) Re-connect the PCM connector to the PCM. To do this gently push the connector on the socket, Hold your mouth just right and wiggle and jiggle the grey lever until it pulls the connector home and snaps in place.

12) Reinstall your battery, shield and cables.

13) Ready to test.
Vehical in park, parking brake set, no feet on either the service brake or the throttle. toggle switch off. Start your engine, flip your toggle switch and your engine will idle up to 1200 rpm.

14) You can quit grinning now!

I hope the instructions are clear enough. I'm not much of a technical writer.
When I get some free time I'll scan all the needed diagrams and post in my now empty gallery.

 

I've been following this thread for a week or so, and have read it over; and over again.... Much to my dismay, I tried this "mod", and had no luck. Are there any special circimstances that need to be present? Such as: Outside air temp., Seatbelt warning light off, ABS light off?
Reason being is, I found the #4 switch wire leading out from my bank of "upfitters", next I located the wire bundle w/ the PTO wire in it (SOLID ORANGE), then as to 'temporary wire' the mod. into service, I installed wire jumper from sw. wire to PTO wire, (with wirenuts). Yes... the connections were good. Ok, starting truck as usual, E-brake applied, shifter in neutral (mine's a 6-speed), all doors shut, and it was about 60 degrees out, give or take. NOTHING... no advance in the idle.. nada. Is there a short period of time before the engine advances itself, after the initial start-up? Any help would be gladly accepted here, w/ winter starting soon, I'd like to rely on this handy tip.
Thank you in advance, hope to hear back w/ some positive re-enforcements soon.."BR"

 

I have Tyco part numbers for all 3 connectors, along with pinout diagrams and working drawings...if anyone would rather order the connectors and install new terminals along with the one needed, just reply and I can post the numbers. They are already in a thread I started a while back named "Dual Processor Mod".

 

Big Ride,

I'll try to help.
What year and model truck do you have? I assume you have an 6.0 PSD?

I believe if you read through the articals in the tech section there is some language about manuel transmissions needing a resistor or potentiometer (sp)
being installed in the circuit.
If you go to www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas and seach for SVE bulletin Q-108
it will explain the resistor values.

Make sure you actually have 12 volts to the orange wire.
Make sure your foot is off of the clutch.
Good luck
Paul

 

TYVM,

Yes it is a PSD, 6-speed, 2005 F-350 SC, SB. Manual transfer case, upfitter switches, and electric brake controller.
13.92 volts is being produced on the O/LB wire leading out from sw. #4.
I read the bulletin, and I see the resistor listed there, but what looks confusing is.... outlined in dashes (says this provided by bodybuilder). Meaning that yes, perhaps the resistor is needed, but looking at the bulletin they are calling for a aftermarket relay, yada yada yada..
Any and all help is appreciated, ty again for your response to my qwandry Paul. Bbl to check for replies, 'tweaking' my 'ZooDad' right now.. hehe

 

Big Ride,

I have the same problem. I have an 05 F 350 PSD with the 6 Speed, uppfitter switches and brake controller. I connected the solid orange with the #4 O/Lb wires. No go. E brake is set, and feet off pedals. Checked the wiring with a test light, and it is getting power, the switch lights up etc. I don't get it. I am thinking I will try the purple and green wire with the switch wire. This is the wire that fluctuates RPM to maintain proper alternator charging. I would rather have a constant 1200 rpm, but I don't get it. Maybe it is a 6 speed issue? Anybody else with a manual got it wired up?