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A lot of you know I just replaced my IAC valve, and it solved my problem of a rough idling engine, but now I have a new problem. Whenever I put the transmission into Park, the engine either shuts off or clumsily tries to keep running, succeeding every once in a long while. I think it has something to do with my new IAC.
Refresh our collective memory - did it do this before the IAC was replaced? What happens if you place the selector in Neutral instead of Park? And, one last query, will the van restart in Park and idle correctly?
Hmmm, that is rather odd it starts and restarts okay but stumbles and dies going from Drive to Park. Try this, when it is idling correctly. Remove the electrical connection at the IAC and see if the engine reaction is the same as when moving from Drive to Park. If so, the new IAC could be suspect for either a poor external/internal connection or failure to react to the change in signal from the PCM (powertrain control module) when moving from Drive to Park. There are different IAC for different engines/models. If this is an aftermarket IAC is may not be the the correct one for your application. (wrong part number or two IACs were switched in box at parts store, etc.) Might not hurt to verify with parts store this is the correct one before delving further into this problem.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Jul 22, 2005 at 01:49 PM.
The brand of this IAC is Wells, which could have something to do with it. Autozone's website said it should work...
After more looking, I've found websites that sell the IAC, one says it's a geniune Ford part, the other is by Motorcraft? Which should I choose? I can still give this IAC back to Autozone, still got the receipt, no box...
Last edited by razor_jim; Jul 22, 2005 at 02:16 PM.
Motorcraft is the Ford parts brand - so both IACs you mentioned are the same item. At the very least, ask Autozone to exchange it for a similar unit and see if that makes a difference. Most people have good experience with aftermarket brands but there is always the rare "bad-out-of-the-box" unit and this may be one.
Okay, after a day of driving to and from work, I've found out that yes, shifting into Neutral has the same effect as if I shifted into Park; engine dies.
I've got my mind set on ordering the genuine Ford part, but I just wanna be sure that the IAC is indeed what the problem is. Is it?
I feel the IAC is one of those parts where, for some reason, the Motorcraft part works best. I had this dilemma, with replacing a MAP sensor with a Wells aftermarket, It was cheaper than the Motorcraft, but guess what? 10-12 months later, the same symptoms return. Then I think "Well, I just replaced the MAP sensor not long ago. It must be something else?". Then someone told me, think about this: You replace a Motorcraft factory part, with a generic aftermarket. The Motorcraft part lasted 70,000 miles before needing replaced. You save a few bucks, but parts are replaced more often. I pitched the Wells Map sensor, and got the correct Motorcraft part at the Ford parts. Dept. 25,000+ miles later, 3 years, the Aerostar runs fine. Also, anytime I replace a sensor part, that sends a signal to the computer, I like to disconnect the ground cable overnight. That might not mean anything, but I do it anyway, and don't have any other problems.
Okay, after a day of driving to and from work, I've found out that yes, shifting into Neutral has the same effect as if I shifted into Park; engine dies.
I've got my mind set on ordering the genuine Ford part, but I just wanna be sure that the IAC is indeed what the problem is. Is it?
I'm thinking it is but did you try the tests mentioned previously, especially disconnecting the IAC when the engine is running after the restart? If the problem did not occur before IAC replacement, then I think the new IAC is suspect.
I haven't gotten around to unplugging the IAC while the engine is running, maybe tomorrow. I wasn't having this problem with the old IAC, just unstable idling and the occasional stall, usually when sitting at a light or in the driveway.
I notice that when I got home from work tonight, I was able to put the van into Park without the engine even shuddering, so I'm wondering if it just takes time for the part to wear in. I suppose time will tell.
I think in any case, I'll probably go for a Ford IAC, this Wells one seems to keep my engine idling somewhat higher than it should when I crank it over after the van's been sitting.
Copper, I'm in Hesperia, which is part of a series of desert towns (Victorville, Apple Valley, Adelanto). If you're near the area I'll gladly make the trip on one of my days off, otherwise thanks for the offer on the free IAC. Unless you want to ship it to me through the mail, which I could send you a few bucks through Paypal for.
Last edited by razor_jim; Jul 24, 2005 at 05:47 AM.
I don't want to sell the thing, I just want to donate it to your car. I live in Huntington Beach, so if you have a chance to go down there on some other trip, just let me know and I will arrange for you to pick it up.
I don't know how much it'll cost to mail it to you, normally if it's just a few bucks, I would do it gladly and consider it a good cause
I don't want to sell the thing, I just want to donate it to your car. I live in Huntington Beach, so if you have a chance to go down there on some other trip, just let me know and I will arrange for you to pick it up.
I don't know how much it'll cost to mail it to you, normally if it's just a few bucks, I would do it gladly and consider it a good cause
Regards
Hmm, Huntington Beach is a bit far of a drive for me. If you want to ship it to me, I'll give you my mailing address over a Private Message, and you can let me know how much it costs to ship it. I can then reimburse you through Paypal or a cashier's check.
PM me your address and I'll mail it to you. Forget the postage, I'll take care of that. But that's for a '93 3.0L engine, make sure you have the same model.