All,
I am hearing alot of comments about holy floorpans and I don't mean in the biblical sense.
Replacing floor boards is not the easiest thing to do but, it is not that difficult.
The replacement floorboard is available for less than $20. Now comes the trick!
You will need a sawsall. This is normally a construction tool but fitted with a metal blade it makes this job feasible.
Trace a line around the bad floorpan area with a marker. It is not necessary to replace the entire area of the replacement metal.
Take a screwdriver and hammer it though at your starting spot. Once the hole is big enough for the sawsall blade just ripp around until you've removed the offending member(floorpan).
Pay attention to the structural steel and don't cut though it! You'll need a spot weld bit for your drill. Once you've cut away the sheet metal go back and cut the spot welds with the special bit. Try and remove the rusty floorpan in as large pieces as possible. Once it's all out place the pieces onto the replacement steel and trace out the shape you need. Now take the sawsall and cut off the excess.
Fit the replacement piece in place and push down on it to get the best fit possible. There should be some overlap between existing and new. Make sure there is!
Use short sheet metal screws to secure the floorpan in place. Once you've got it close, dissamble and prep your edges for welding. Welding may be the most difficult part for most but, if you've done the prep work well it shouldn't cost much to get the job finished.
Welding can be tac'ed but you'd be better off to weld it continuously. I would weld both inside and out if you live in a corrosive area (salt) but it is not required and may not be possible if the tranny is in the vehicle.
If you've got any question, ask'em.
KingFisher

 

You sure do make it sound easy, Kingfisher! Luckily my rust through spots were already repaired when I bought my truck. It wasn't the pretiest weld job, but it works. Instead of painting the under side bare metal the previous owner used some type of very durable undercoating/rust stopper. It helps to deaden the noise too. One thing to keep in mind is to watch out for any metal lines or wires or speedo cables that might be sitting under the floorpan that you plan to cut.

 

Hi David,

Appreciate the mighty-fine input; now all I need to do is learn how to weld....

Hopefully this time next year all the floor business will be over with and I'll have the electric windows installed....

Regards,

 

I wish I had tags on my truck so I could just drive it to my buddy's house and use his welder! Oh well, it looks like pop rivets (don't knock 'em till ya try 'em!), and RTV sealer for me! Undercoat, and carpet, you'll never know the difference.

Jared

 

Ford_six;
Aha!....pop-rivets - they are good enough for AIRplanes, they ought to be good enough for Harrison!!

 

All,
Pop rivets are a pain. Try using the TEK-Head self drilling sheet metal screws. I bank on them.
KingFisher

 

if your gonna use tek-screws, then predrill a few holes around the edges of your fresh metal b4 you attempt to fasten it down... makes life alot easier. i use them all the time and they are one of the greatest inventions of the 20th century.... right up there with duct tape.... i think red green should use them