When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's a TVS or Thermal Vacuum Switch. When the coolant temp rises enough, it allows the vacuum to "carry through" the valve. Your EGR doesn't open up untill the engine warms up. This is how it senses the engine is up to temp. It should hold vacuum when cold and not when hot.
Many vehicles have what is known as a Ported Vacuum Switch screwed into the waterneck to control one or more devices that activate off of a temperature controlled vacuum signal.
There should be another hose connected to another port on that TVS. The hose would go to a vacuum port at the base of the carb that provides vacuum only at partial throttle or decel. If you do hook it up make sure you don't use direct manifold vacuum or you will have stalling problems when the TVS opens after the engine reaches operating tempurature. The plastic the vaves were made from was very brittle and most of the time the nipples got broken off so you may not see the additional one on there just a hole where it used to be.
Any one that has TVSs on there vehicles should check them if they have drivability problems. They go bad quite often and especially if the engine was overheated. I used to change them when ever someone came in with a stuck thermo or overheating problem.
BTW TVSs were used before computer controls and solinoid activated EGR valves and such.
(I'm an oldtimer)
Besides the EGR, what else would need such a vacuum signal?
Some will switch the vacuum advance signal from ported to manifold vacuum at around 210 degrees. the timing is advanced and the idle goes up (and spins the water pump faster).
Some will switch the vacuum advance signal from ported to manifold vacuum at around 210 degrees. the timing is advanced and the idle goes up (and spins the water pump faster).
I forgot about that one Oldhalftons, lots of cars failed hydrocarbons inspection for a bad one.
Back when I was a tech they were $8-$12 list... prices have definately gone up!
You may want to try a dealer for price, sometimes on odd things like this they are actually cheaper! I remember when 9004 bulbs first came out, parts houses were getting between $10 and $15 for them and my local Ford dealer had them for $4.99!