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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 12:37 AM
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Rear Differential

What should i expect to pay for either a complete rear differential rebuild or installing a used rear end? I've gotten two quotes so far and both seem to be about the same. Upwards of $900 to throw in a used one and between $900-$1300 for a rebuild. Is this about right?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 12:42 AM
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I am guessing that you have an 8.8? To me that sounds a little steep. I had my rear end rebuilt, new rear axles, and 4:10's put in the front and rear diff. for $1200. Mine is also limited slip. I would look around a little more. If the ring and pinion are good I would look into doing it myself.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 12:01 PM
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Yes if you keep your original gearing then your ring and pinion is probabally fine. I replaced my out of a 28 yr. old truck and they were fine, but I also wanted to change my gears so it was worth it. I got new ring and pinion, a master install kit(with all bearings and seals) and a LS and labor for alittle over $800.

What do you want to do to your rear end, if you want us to trully help you this would be some usefull info.

IF you put a locker, new gears, and master install kit then that price doesn't sound to bad.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 02:01 AM
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$900 seems a little steep -- I paid $600 for one, including $100 core + tax, but could've gotten one for around $300 if I didn't want a LSD. Prices depend a lot on where you live, but I'd call around, and if the prices are high in your area, it might be worth to buy one elsewhere and pay for shipping. (I never tried a truck shipment -- and an 8.8" rear axle is heavy!) but sometimes they can be had for as little as a couple hundred bucks.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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A few months back, I removed driveshaft from '88 Bronco and took it to a shop to be rebuilt. Trunion was chewed up, required cutting old part off and welding a new one in place, plus new joints, high speed balancing.
While the truck was up on jackstands, I decided to remove cover from differential and change the gear oil. Upon inspection, the large ring and pinion gears were in good shape with little play, but both idler(?) pinion gears were missing one tooth on each side. Was told by mechanic at driveline shop, that "side" and "pinion" gears, allow axles to turn at a different ratios, when vehicle is in process of turning. Purchased a new gear set for the 8.8 [four gears, thrust washers, pin] for about $170. ... installation was relatively simple.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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I just found out from the shop that there is nothing salvagable. Everything including axle shafts all gearing (ring & pinion/spider) etc..is completely shot. They said they've found a rear end from a 94 Bronco w/ approx. 90,000 miles-90day warranty. Shop would obviously verify its condition before install. But, they've given me a high-end quote of $1200 which would include a new wheel cylinders/brake setup if neccessary. Does this seem a little steep for used? It does have to be shipped 500+ miles.
 

Last edited by cprescott; Jul 20, 2005 at 12:05 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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You could check ebay, but I don't know how much you could rely on those, but it's worth looking at to get some prices in your mind
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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yes the rear end should only run you anywere from $100-$400. if you have 2 jack stands and basic tools you can do a rear end swap in a few hours. i would have the rig towed home because they are rapen ya
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 12:37 PM
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$1200 is nuts for a used rear axle. Try a junkyard in your area, and install it yourself. It's very easy to do.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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So, I had the used rear-end put in and other than the gear grinding sound disappearing the truck is still shifting hard along with the infamous clunk when putting in gear (especially reverse). Which were the original diagnosed symptoms leading to the repairs performed. Both places I went to originally informed that they were unable to find anything wrong with the transmission..and that the problem was the differentail. It now also sounds/feels like it's kinda loose back there as between hard shifts I noticed a clunky rattle?
I know the E4OD's are problematic. The guy even went so far as to try to blame some of the hard shifting on the warmer weather. Any one have anymore input on some of these symptoms?
 

Last edited by cprescott; Jul 23, 2005 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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check your u-joints
 
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 03:38 AM
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The clunk? You just need to grease the slip yoke -- it's in the rubber boot in the drive shaft.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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Smile lotta money and a lotta miles!!!

there's got to be one cheaper and closer than that make sure that it is the same gear ratio as the old one [ axle code on the drivers door post] h9 is a 3.73 and trac-lock any one know for sure if a half ton pick-up is the sameand there's and lot of years they used the same set -up maybe if you posted this in the driveline section further down the main page some of the "gear heads" know this stuff and maybe guide you to some help good luck save some of that money for play
john
 
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 01:31 AM
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cpresscot, A loud clunk when putting it in reverse, is most likely caused by excessive play in the driveshaft cardigan(?) u-joints. Also, the side gears in my 1988 rear end (150K) had excessive wear, before I replaced them. One can not judge "wear" solely by mileage on the odometer, driver habits, poor maintenance, off-road use, towing trailers, etc. could accelerate wear on any part in a vehicle.
As for the hard shifting issues; you didn't state when it all began. Is it possible that a previous owner had a shift kit installed in the tranny?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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the mlp solenoid on the tranny may cause hard shifting also the VSS sensor in the rear diff could be bad. a stock bronco/f150 never came with 3.73 gears. they either had 3.08,3.55,4.10's thats it. sounds like this shop is bogus anyways because wamer weather wouldnt affect the tranny unless your tranny cooler isnt doing its job or you dont even have one then maybe.
 
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