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Ok guys I just spent two hours in 90 degree sun because my truck wouldn't start... It always starts and I left it for maybe 40 minutes came back and nothing.... Had a two truck come out and it took a batter pack and his cables to get the truck to turn over. I drove it for 30 minutes parked it and tried to start her back up and nothing the generator dash lights don't even come on....
Is this a bad generator? Is this a battery that won't hold a charge? How can a test to see if my generator is working?
My first step is to get a new battery...
Then I need to make sure that the chargeing system is working properly but I'm a novice at car repair....
Is there something else that could be draining the batterey?
The only thing I've done to the truck in weeks I did yesterday and it was very minor....The gas guage doesn't work right, it starts out in empty when off when you turn the power on it goes to full and stays there....my buddy said it mighjt be the ground wire coming out of the gas tank because it didn't look like it was metal to metal to much paint. So I sanded down the paint where it screws in and well it didn't help but just so you have all teh facts - I doubt they are related....
The first thing you need to do is check your battery connections if good. Get a volt meter and see how many volts your generator is putting out running about 1200 rpms. If it is getting 13.5 to 14.5 volts I would think the battery may have just shorted. another way to check the generator is start the truck turn on the headlights, Do they stay bright?
The first thing you need to do is check your battery connections if good. Get a volt meter and see how many volts your generator is putting out running about 1200 rpms. If it is getting 13.5 to 14.5 volts I would think the battery may have just shorted. another way to check the generator is start the truck turn on the headlights, Do they stay bright?
So I bought a meter so I could test the voltage... I tested at the battery and when the truck was reving I was getting about 20 Volts when it was at idle I was getting about 13.5... This would mean it's charging the battery right?
I agree with Hiball, your regulator is screwed up. Rev'd you shouldn't get more than 14.5. At idle it should be under 12 - that's what causes dimmed headlights when you stop.
That's probably what happened to the last battery.
I'm going to ordered a new Voltage Regulator from www.lmctruck.com, is there anything else in the electrical system that I should buy while getting the voltage regulator???
you should be able to get a regulater at any parts store...don't forget that when ever you disconnect a generator or voltage regulator you have to polorize it after install, you may already know that, but some new owners of older vehicles dont so I thought I would throw it in..good luck
you should be able to get a regulater at any parts store...don't forget that when ever you disconnect a generator or voltage regulator you have to polorize it after install, you may already know that, but some new owners of older vehicles dont so I thought I would throw it in..good luck
after you install the new regulator with the wires hooked up, remove the field wire (F terminal) and momentarly touch it to the battery terminal( B ), it will spark a little, not a problem, then reattach the field wire to the field terminal, thats it
after you install the new regulator with the wires hooked up, remove the field wire (F terminal) and momentarly touch it to the battery terminal( B ), it will spark a little, not a problem, then reattach the field wire to the field terminal, thats it
When you say B Terminal you mean the wire that is connected to the regulator that connects to the positve side of the Battery - correct?
What does the F Terminal conenct too? is this the one coming from the generator to the regulator?
Oh and I am assuming the polarizing happens with the key in the on position - correct??
Sorry for the never ending questions I just want to get it right?
sorry I don't do well at explaining on a keyboard, I'm just an old backyard mechanic...the regulator has 3 terminal ARM(A) FEILD(F) BAT(B)..thats what I was reffering to..connect the ARM and BAT wires to your new regulator....then touch the FEILD wire(before you connect it to the regulator)to the one next to it (BAT) before you connect the wire to the regulator...then its polorized and you can attach the field wire...hope this helps, it sounds more confusing than it is...maybe some can explain it better..feel free to ask any questions, lots of people here to help
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