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What method do people use to get rid of the surface rust in the cab flooring before refinishing. I have used some RustDoctor which is nice since you can paint it afterwards but it doesn't remove the rust but converts it to black. I have wire brushed the surface but that doesn't remove that much of the rust. Any suggestions? Thanks.
The easiest what is to sand or media blast it. You have to have the equipment to do it like a good size air compressor, blasting equipment, body/face protection and respirator system and a place to do it. It is messy, you'll have grit everywhere. You have to be sure it doesn't get into you dashboard components like speedometers or guages, it's better to remove everything before blasting.
The second thing you can to is use an chemicals like muriatic acid. This is time consuming and you also have the correct protective gear, body/face protection including rubber gloves, and very good ventilation, this stuff gives off nasty fumes. You will still end up will a mess but you can confine the mess a little better than blasting but you have to make sure you neutralize the chemicals after you're done and if any gets into a body seam and you don't get it out it will come back to haunt you when you do your final paint work. It will seep out and lift your paint.
I personally prefer blasting. You have to be careful you don't over do the blasting so you don't warp the sheet metal but floors usually a lot of ribs stamped into them to add strength and this will help when blasting. If you do it yourself just take your time, if you're going to hire someone make sure the person knows how to blast sheet metal. A lot of blasting places do mostly heavy metal not the flimsy sheet metal already weaken by rust.
I prefer sandblasting if it is more than surface with deeper pits. Surface rust is very minor rust that can be easily removed with sanding but heavier rust is requires alot more effort to remove.
For those of us on a budget, another low-cost method is the metal prep liquid they sell at Home Depot. It is called Jasco. It comes in a quart bottle for about $6.95. And unlike many metal preps, it reacts with regular steel as well as rust. I think that this would work very well for you on any rust you want to neutralize. Jag
Do you know if this stuff can cause a problem if trace amounts are left on the metal and it is painted over. The retoration book that I have says to be careful of chemical rust removers since if they aren't completely removed and the surface is painted over it can cause the repainted surface to peel.
Most people I have talked too just wipe Jasco with a wet rag the next day to neutralize any product that may be left. But I have had no problems with it. It just tuned to gray and white powder that I sanded lightly to remove. (Not necessary for floorboards) Then I primed and painted. Some of the other metal preps stay liquid unless they encounter rust. Jasco adheres to steel whether it's rusty or not. And turns to a dry powery appearance. I used por-15 before somebody told me about Jasco. The results look identical and the two liquids smell the same. The only difference was that por-15 came in a spray bottle that was half as large as the Jasco, but cost twice as much. So, according to my math, that means Jasco cost 1/4 as much as Por-15. Good luck, Jag
Any chemical treatment could become problematic if it isn't rinsed and cleaned very thoroughly. That said, if it were the floor that was rusted, I would just use ZeroRust and carpet it.
Randy and Jag, you wimps! Seawulff, git out that grit blaster and go at it son. Knocks all the crud off the metal and makes it fly clean out of the garage! Don't need no pansy chemicalicals and such. Yeeeee haaaaa!!! Ride that buckin' grit blaster!!!
Next George will be telling us about the time he dunked a cab in an extra large vat of molasses! A little sticky, but it does git rid of the dead mouse smell. Jag