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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Removing smog and etc....

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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 08:15 PM
  #1  
hacking_in2002's Avatar
hacking_in2002
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Removing smog and etc....

On my 81, 300 6 I'm planning on removing the smog pump and all of its components.I'm tryin' to do a little clean up work under the hood,Just a few questions,
1.Under the carb,I think its the EGR,can that whole assembly be removed?
2.On the valve cover in the front there is a cap with a pvc elbow,on the back there is a piece that runs a hose to the EGR and Vapor canister,can these be removed and valve breathers put in their place?
any help is appreciated...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 12:23 AM
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From: Hawkeye Country
ive gotta 82 F100 pretty much the same set up. i removed the vapor canister, besure to plug the hole on the carb, i followed the metal line out of the canister to the gas tank i cut the line and crimped it shut. i unbolted the egr tube out of the side of the exhaust maifold and pluged the hole with a big bolt. on the valve cover you mentioned the pcv system. i stuck a breather in the front hole, as for the pcv valve i removed it, but the engine ran a little funny, and it would cough up crankcase vapors, i'd be sitting at a red light and white smoke would be blowing around out from under the hood. so my advice would be to leave the pcv pluged in. from what ive seen im pretty sure its not possible to remove the hole egr setup from under the carb since there are vacume conections on it. do you still have your stock air cleaner? i pulled mine off and replaced it with a chrome open air cleaner assembly, i also found the tallest air cleaner i could fit on it.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 08:47 AM
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Got a picture of my current setup in gallery,the breather i'm gettin' has a built in pvc valve for the front,I heard of a cut off plate for the EGR but do they work or where can I get one?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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SmokyOlFord
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Mine has the inlet ports plugged with plumbing caps. The insides were left open. The pcv is just run to a vacuum port, which ain't right, as it's drawing all the time. When I bought it, the pcv line was plugged by a solenoid that wasn't wired in. This caused the system to vent backwards into the carb, leaving puddles of oil in the air breather.

Crankcase pressure is sorta high, probably from worn rings and/or valve seals. Just leaving the valve cover holes open vents a lot of oil vapors into the engine compartment.

I've thought about running a hose from the valve cover to the back of the truck to vent the engine out and away. Probably better to have the egr in operating condition, especially with a worn engine like mine.

-Ed
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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Red face

Use the PCV valve. You have to vent the crankcase.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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Hey, Hacking, thanks for the engine pic! I've been searching high and low for a match to my motor to see how things are supposed to be. All smog systems and vac lines are totally wrong, missing or inoperative on my truck.

I've sent you a PM about it.

later!
-Ed
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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hacking_in2002
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Originally Posted by Holmesuser01
Use the PCV valve. You have to vent the crankcase.
The valve on mine was originally run to the stock air breather,If I got one of the small chrome breathers with a pvc built in,would that work the same as the stock one?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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I admit to not knowing much about these computerized ignition and smog systems. I'm a '67 man at heart- points for ignition and simple rubber diaphragms for smog are more my speed.

The egr is supposed to meter in the fumes from the crankcase depending on engine flow. Eliminating it would either block all fumes (bad, pressurizes the block) or let them in even at idle (rough running).

It might depend in part on the pcv construction. Mine, for instance, has weak resistance to vacuum, thus vents all the time. You might find one for a different make or model that had a stiffer spring, such that it did not vent much until revs were higher.

The hose which connects to the air cleaner is supposed to feed fresh, filtered air into the crankcase. The pcv vents this air, now laden with crankcase fumes, on into the engine for combustion. Normally, this goes through the egr, mounted below the carb. If your motor were venting a lot of oil vapors, like mine is, sending it into the top of the carb would probably gunk it up in no time.

My egr is blocked off and the pcv is connected to one of the vacuum ports on its rear. Not the best, but all I got right now! I restricted the pcv hose diameter by stuffing a short length of smaller hose inside of it. A manually adjustable valve might be more elegant. My motor is too smoky out of the valve cover to just vent it via the old-fashioned crankcase vent cap.

How much smoke is vented from the holes in your valve cover if you just leave them open? If it's low pressure and not too oily/smoky, you may get by with just a simple pcv setup.

Hope this helps!
-Ed
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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Put a vac. diagram in gallery,if anyone can help me decipher all of it,I think I can leave my chrome breather and hook everything else up except the hose to the front of the valve cover....Thanks for the advice Smoky
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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I saw your pics, nice clear shots and helpful to my own projects, thanks!

If your motor's good, you might get away with the setup as you have it. The egr may not be allowing pcv vapors in, unless it leaks some, as the vacuum controls for it are missing. Same situation on my rig. But the pcv has two hoses, the second hose may be doing the job. I haven't figured all that out yet myself, I never knew where that second port connected!

If the pcv is drawing some vacuum, the front vent will mostly let air in. It should have a filter of some kind to keep dirt out of the crankcase. Is the insides of the front vent stuffed with "wool" or something to clean the air a bit? If not, for sure feed it from the air cleaner, that's the way it is on mine.

Mine vents a lot of oil vapor that ends up collecting in the air cleaner housing.

The problem with these older Fords is the systems are all separated, but their signals depend on one another for the whole thing to work as designed. Remove one or more parts, it may disable the contols for another. It may run, but timing or gas mileage may suffer. It may be a case of all or none. My rig's somewhere in the middle, not bad, but nowhere near running right.

later!
-Ed
 

Last edited by SmokyOlFord; Jul 17, 2005 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 01:22 AM
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Get rid of the computer controlled carb, and convert to a duraspark II ignition(wrecking yard item, take everything related....coil, distributor, spark control box...you name it)

From there you can run a one vac line pcv valve, eliminate the egr valve entirely...may as well grab the exhaust manifold off the same truck while grabbing the ignition system, and just run what actually works.
 
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