V-10 Towing Concerns, Update
As you may recall, I wrote:
I'm really disappointed; I had expected more out of this truck, given the discussions on this board. Any suggestions? It's a '99 E-350XL V10, 45k miles, 4R100 with the 3.73 L/S rear end. The only documented service history I have is regular oil changes with Mobil 1. - GA
My initial drive after doing the af, MAF, and Banks was mixed. It seemed to be good on tip-in, but felt like it was missing mid-throttle and above. That seemed to go away after it warmed up. Today, when I drove it to emissions, I didn't notice this problem at all, and cruise (without the trailer) seemed good. I'll get a chance to try it with the (empty) trailer Saturday (CT requires a trailer "VIN verification" before they'll let you transfer a title from out-of-state). TO tempt fate I filled it up with 87 octane ($73 worth!) and we'll see how it works out.
Following Fred's advice, shorter tires are out of the question short-term; these are nearly new 275s. I'll have to ask around to find a good Ford tech for diagnostics, but how does one get "the good code" for the ECU? Does Ford allow customers to pick and choose which flash they get? The exhaust guy wasn't too keen on the idea of hacking up the y-pipe, guess I'll have to find someone else.
Any other suggestions, ideas, comments? I'd like to hear of the experiences of LIVE2HUNT and others with similar experiences... - GA
But just for grins you should check out for sale posts here, ebay and local tire rim houses for a set of take offs that have the smaller tires on plane Jane factory rims.
I had three total sets of rims and tires for my PSD. Stock size, two size larger, and one size smaller. Gave me plenty of adaptability and by swapping them around every 6 months or so I got many many years down the road with out having to re-shoe.
Thanks to a member of this forum who lives close I now have two complete 18" sets for my V10. Both sets with the crap Contis....but I won't HAVE to buy tries any time soon.
Most of the time the price is just too good to pass up and if you need to tow heavy the small wheel/tires make a significant difference and who really care that it looks silly.
Greg all my specific CODE experience and research was for the 2001-2004 motors so I can not recommend a "good" code for the 99.
Go to this site and teach your self more than you want to know.
Knowledge is power. ]
Get a 99 PCM from a junk yard can not be too hard to find and pick and choose different codes than you have.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/PCMflash/default.asp?pageid=calibration_pub&gutsid=calibrat ion
Last night I changed the fuel filter, plus the oil and its filter. Today, I got a chance to tow with the empty enclosed auto trailer (figure a ~3500# big rectanguler box). Honestly, I really noticed an improvement. Cruising on the flat highway could be done with the throttle only partially cracked open, and the speeds could be maintained on gentle rolling hills with a quick downshift and half throttle. Only once did I have to mash the pedal, and that was when I had to lane-change and pass some bozo who merged onto the highway at a slow speed.
I cut open the fuel filter just now and it was pretty dirty, the input side of the paper was covered by a black film. It was a Motorcraft, and with 43K on the clock I suggest it's the original one.
I reserve final judgement until I can tow with the additional 3000 pounds in the trailer, but I'm reasonably optimistic. Mileage over 8 would be a big plus...
Now to find a "good code" PCM... - GA
Yes it is a daunting task to fully understand how to use that matrix and frightening how many software firmware updates are in there.
Years ago we had a thread going during the PCM re-flash days that Ford was trying to kill FLUTTER with programing (result always was loss of power) Ford can not tell what "codes" do what they are so fuggelled up on this. We could easily identify over 17 different codes for the 2000-2001 2v V10s I think mine was IGW0 and one of the high mileage strong ones.
At that same site is a link to the full description of OBDII processes and results. Mandatory reading for any tech motor head!
Bottom line: it's better than before, but less than I was expecting. It pulls real nice off the line, good torque. As I proceed up the highway entrance ramp, though, it seems to start falling flat. If I set the cruise at 70 it'll work fine on the flats but quickly downshifts on even the slightest hill. Steeper hills (not mountains, mind you) and it requires full-throttle.
So tell me, is this the nature of the '99 engine, or should I go searching for more problems?
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With fuel prices going as high as they are, I could use a little more mileage. My last tank was 8.65 mpg, where it has hovered for some time. I have not broken 10 in months and only a couple times at all
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Lots of good info has been given but I think your best investment would be 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Your better off towing at 2600 rpm in OD than 3000+ rpm every time you hit a grade. I like Fredvon4's idea of the smaller tire set just for towing.
I have a 04V10 w/3.73. It does fine in flat FL with 285 tires but it is also shifts out of OD on fairly small grades pulling a trailer. (9,200lb)
The service interval for the fuel filter is like 30K miles. I recently changed mine on the idea that my '01 V10 has seen more fuel than a "normal" motor does in 40K miles. It definitely woke up the truck under a load, big time.
The '99 V10 didn't breath as well as my '01, hence the power output differences. And, you at full-throttle is what mine is as 3/4's throttle. But even 3/4's sounds like a lot.
Re-gear it to 4.30's. You'll be suprised.
art k.
If I were to consider it, where would I go to buy the parts and get the work done (I'd prefer to avoid the dealer)?
If I were to consider it, where would I go to buy the parts and get the work done (I'd prefer to avoid the dealer)?
My '96 t-bird 4.6L came with a 3.27 rear gear. I switched to 3.73 and got an extra 400RPMs or so at 70MPH. Got BETTER mileage because the engine wasn't working as hard to push the car through the air. As in, it went from 22-23 to 25 on the highway doing 70MPH. I can't say that's the case with a Superduty V10 though

As for having a ring-and-pinion installed, a machinist can do it. Or a really, really good garage, but they usually send them out to somewhere else to have them done. The machinist can get the parts, or you can get them online, or from the dealer, they shouldn't be too expensive.
Summit racing (and I'm sure the sponsors here) have them for the 10.25" Sterling rear, but they don't seem to have 4.30's... only 4.10 ...
Worth $1000+ for ~250 RPM?
When changing gear ratios, it's important to take into account "what's it get me?".
A drop from 3.73 to 4.30's would be what, 15% difference? That's a lot when towing, that's like going from 425ft/lbs of torque (stock '01-'04 V10) to 488ft/lbs. WOW.
That's a LOT of difference. To bump the motor up more than 60 ft/lbs, without changing the RPM range more than a few 100's, almost impossible without spending more than $1000, especially when it includes labor.
That's the reason a gear change is such "cheap" power. Compared to trying to get more torque from the motor, a gear change is easy.
Whether "cheap" is in your budget, that's a different story
I'll make some calls manana, but I've spent the last hour scouring the Internet. Best I can figure I have a Dana 80 11.25" (or variant; 10-bolt case). I can only find references to 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.63, and 5.13 ratios. Further, it appears that the cases are different for the 3.73 and down versus the 4.10 and up, so I may have to change out the case as well. Sooo, from 3.73 to 4.10 is 9%...
Superchips claims +49 ft-lbs for ~$400...
Any recommendations for forum sponsors to contact that would know about this stuff? - GA







