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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:27 PM
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V-10 Towing Concerns, Update

Sorry the prior thread got hijacked (I'm guilty of the badgering as any) but I wanted to offer up an update on my personal situation.

As you may recall, I wrote:
For the first time I was pulling a 7000 GVW 26' enclosed auto trailer with my new-to-me '99 E-350. It pulls OK off the line but starts to run out of breath on the acceleration ramps and at highway speeds. Even the gently rolling hills of NE CT (I-84) and central Mass (I-90) were forcing me to pull it out of OD and floor it to stay up to the speed limit; in many cases I was back to 55mph in 2nd gear and not accelerating. To make matters worse, using the A/C killed the power significantly so I had to leave it off (on a mid-90s day), and I averaged about 6mpg while never going over 70 mph.

I'm really disappointed; I had expected more out of this truck, given the discussions on this board. Any suggestions? It's a '99 E-350XL V10, 45k miles, 4R100 with the 3.73 L/S rear end. The only documented service history I have is regular oil changes with Mobil 1. - GA
I spent some time over the last couple of days doing some basic stuff, First, I pulled out the MAF (dang safety torx!!!) and cleaned it with QD; it seemed fine. I also installed a K&N air filter at the same time. The old AF was in pretty bad shape (lot sof bugs and dirt) but didn't seem terminal. I also installed the Banks TransCommand (nice firm shifts) and pumped up the tire pressures. Finally, I had to go through emissions check today and it passed with flying colors, and the exhaust guy said he didn't find any evidence of cat plugging. Tomorrow I plan to replace the fuel filter

My initial drive after doing the af, MAF, and Banks was mixed. It seemed to be good on tip-in, but felt like it was missing mid-throttle and above. That seemed to go away after it warmed up. Today, when I drove it to emissions, I didn't notice this problem at all, and cruise (without the trailer) seemed good. I'll get a chance to try it with the (empty) trailer Saturday (CT requires a trailer "VIN verification" before they'll let you transfer a title from out-of-state). TO tempt fate I filled it up with 87 octane ($73 worth!) and we'll see how it works out.

Following Fred's advice, shorter tires are out of the question short-term; these are nearly new 275s. I'll have to ask around to find a good Ford tech for diagnostics, but how does one get "the good code" for the ECU? Does Ford allow customers to pick and choose which flash they get? The exhaust guy wasn't too keen on the idea of hacking up the y-pipe, guess I'll have to find someone else.

Any other suggestions, ideas, comments? I'd like to hear of the experiences of LIVE2HUNT and others with similar experiences... - GA
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 07:17 PM
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Greg you are on the right path and I truly understand about the tires.

But just for grins you should check out for sale posts here, ebay and local tire rim houses for a set of take offs that have the smaller tires on plane Jane factory rims.

I had three total sets of rims and tires for my PSD. Stock size, two size larger, and one size smaller. Gave me plenty of adaptability and by swapping them around every 6 months or so I got many many years down the road with out having to re-shoe.

Thanks to a member of this forum who lives close I now have two complete 18" sets for my V10. Both sets with the crap Contis....but I won't HAVE to buy tries any time soon.

Most of the time the price is just too good to pass up and if you need to tow heavy the small wheel/tires make a significant difference and who really care that it looks silly.

Greg all my specific CODE experience and research was for the 2001-2004 motors so I can not recommend a "good" code for the 99.

Go to this site and teach your self more than you want to know.

Knowledge is power. ]

Get a 99 PCM from a junk yard can not be too hard to find and pick and choose different codes than you have.


http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/PCMflash/default.asp?pageid=calibration_pub&gutsid=calibrat ion
 
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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Thanks, Fred, I appreciate the feedback. As a correction, I actually have 245 tires on there, but I'll keep my eyes peeled for replacements anyway.

Last night I changed the fuel filter, plus the oil and its filter. Today, I got a chance to tow with the empty enclosed auto trailer (figure a ~3500# big rectanguler box). Honestly, I really noticed an improvement. Cruising on the flat highway could be done with the throttle only partially cracked open, and the speeds could be maintained on gentle rolling hills with a quick downshift and half throttle. Only once did I have to mash the pedal, and that was when I had to lane-change and pass some bozo who merged onto the highway at a slow speed.

I cut open the fuel filter just now and it was pretty dirty, the input side of the paper was covered by a black film. It was a Motorcraft, and with 43K on the clock I suggest it's the original one.

I reserve final judgement until I can tow with the additional 3000 pounds in the trailer, but I'm reasonably optimistic. Mileage over 8 would be a big plus...

Now to find a "good code" PCM... - GA
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 06:51 AM
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GregA - Please keep posting on your finding. I have 225's on the rear and had a terrible time pulling 4000 pounds up and down the hills of PA. Changed the fuel filter but haven't had the opportunity to pull anything again. My fuel filter had about 108K on it, the original. I like to get my money's worth!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 08:38 AM
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fred
holy smokes a 05 v10 has 215 possible pcm codes? thanks for the link
 
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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Charlie

Yes it is a daunting task to fully understand how to use that matrix and frightening how many software firmware updates are in there.

Years ago we had a thread going during the PCM re-flash days that Ford was trying to kill FLUTTER with programing (result always was loss of power) Ford can not tell what "codes" do what they are so fuggelled up on this. We could easily identify over 17 different codes for the 2000-2001 2v V10s I think mine was IGW0 and one of the high mileage strong ones.

At that same site is a link to the full description of OBDII processes and results. Mandatory reading for any tech motor head!
 
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Finally got to towing a full load with the '99 E-350 today.

Bottom line: it's better than before, but less than I was expecting. It pulls real nice off the line, good torque. As I proceed up the highway entrance ramp, though, it seems to start falling flat. If I set the cruise at 70 it'll work fine on the flats but quickly downshifts on even the slightest hill. Steeper hills (not mountains, mind you) and it requires full-throttle.

So tell me, is this the nature of the '99 engine, or should I go searching for more problems?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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Would a pcm from say, an 2001 truck, work in an 04? I ask because a friend of mine is a junk yard scavenger and can come up with pretty much anything I ask him to With fuel prices going as high as they are, I could use a little more mileage. My last tank was 8.65 mpg, where it has hovered for some time. I have not broken 10 in months and only a couple times at all
 
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:26 PM
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"I'm really disappointed; I had expected more out of this truck, given the discussions on this board. Any suggestions? It's a '99 E-350XL V10, 45k miles, 4R100 with the 3.73 L/S rear end. The only documented service history I have is regular oil changes with Mobil 1. - GA"

Lots of good info has been given but I think your best investment would be 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Your better off towing at 2600 rpm in OD than 3000+ rpm every time you hit a grade. I like Fredvon4's idea of the smaller tire set just for towing.

I have a 04V10 w/3.73. It does fine in flat FL with 285 tires but it is also shifts out of OD on fairly small grades pulling a trailer. (9,200lb)
 
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Yup, re-gearing would probably help a LOT.

The service interval for the fuel filter is like 30K miles. I recently changed mine on the idea that my '01 V10 has seen more fuel than a "normal" motor does in 40K miles. It definitely woke up the truck under a load, big time.

The '99 V10 didn't breath as well as my '01, hence the power output differences. And, you at full-throttle is what mine is as 3/4's throttle. But even 3/4's sounds like a lot.

Re-gear it to 4.30's. You'll be suprised.

art k.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 03:31 PM
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Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I understand how it could improve towing; any chance that a gear change could improve the fuel economy?

If I were to consider it, where would I go to buy the parts and get the work done (I'd prefer to avoid the dealer)?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GregA
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I understand how it could improve towing; any chance that a gear change could improve the fuel economy?

If I were to consider it, where would I go to buy the parts and get the work done (I'd prefer to avoid the dealer)?
The economy may get better, or just not change at all. Putting out at least more than 10% more torque to the rear wheels, you'll see a few hundred more RPMs running at the same speed, but you also don't have to push the go-pedel down as much. It can be either a straight trade-off, or a gain, but can also be a loss.

My '96 t-bird 4.6L came with a 3.27 rear gear. I switched to 3.73 and got an extra 400RPMs or so at 70MPH. Got BETTER mileage because the engine wasn't working as hard to push the car through the air. As in, it went from 22-23 to 25 on the highway doing 70MPH. I can't say that's the case with a Superduty V10 though

As for having a ring-and-pinion installed, a machinist can do it. Or a really, really good garage, but they usually send them out to somewhere else to have them done. The machinist can get the parts, or you can get them online, or from the dealer, they shouldn't be too expensive.

Summit racing (and I'm sure the sponsors here) have them for the 10.25" Sterling rear, but they don't seem to have 4.30's... only 4.10 ...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by krewat
Summit racing (and I'm sure the sponsors here) have them for the 10.25" Sterling rear, but they don't seem to have 4.30's... only 4.10 ...
Reviewing Dana's web site (http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~deabill~2~), I snagged my BOM number off the axle (606209-4) and entered it. Unfortunately, it doesn't show up. However if I search by make and model, I found the one I think is correct (probably 606109-4). If you select their "Change Ratio" option, they'll give you the proper replacement part numbers, but they only list 3.55 and 4.10 ratios as optional.

Worth $1000+ for ~250 RPM?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GregA
Worth $1000+ for ~250 RPM?
Aye, there's the rub!

When changing gear ratios, it's important to take into account "what's it get me?".

A drop from 3.73 to 4.30's would be what, 15% difference? That's a lot when towing, that's like going from 425ft/lbs of torque (stock '01-'04 V10) to 488ft/lbs. WOW.

That's a LOT of difference. To bump the motor up more than 60 ft/lbs, without changing the RPM range more than a few 100's, almost impossible without spending more than $1000, especially when it includes labor.

That's the reason a gear change is such "cheap" power. Compared to trying to get more torque from the motor, a gear change is easy.

Whether "cheap" is in your budget, that's a different story
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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Yes, but would you do it for 9%, or +40ft-lbs? From 410 ft-lbs (on my '99 E-350) to 450?

I'll make some calls manana, but I've spent the last hour scouring the Internet. Best I can figure I have a Dana 80 11.25" (or variant; 10-bolt case). I can only find references to 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.63, and 5.13 ratios. Further, it appears that the cases are different for the 3.73 and down versus the 4.10 and up, so I may have to change out the case as well. Sooo, from 3.73 to 4.10 is 9%...

Superchips claims +49 ft-lbs for ~$400...


Any recommendations for forum sponsors to contact that would know about this stuff? - GA
 
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