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quote: "I noticed the guage creep past 3/4, then to full hot when i pulled over."
Did it go to hot while running or when you shut it off? Does your gauge naturally go to HOT when shut off like the earlier ones?
Could be a head gasket problem, could be a block crack, could be a sticking thermostat, but most likely just the normal fluxuations during summer temps. My 48 runs a little warmer during hot summer months too. Look under the truck around the overflow tube. If you're venting coolant you'll see the splatters around the end of the tube. With only a 7# radiator cap they dump coolant pretty easily. Don't be tempted to use a higher pressure cap - you'll blow the seams out of the tanks.
Watch it for a while and note what it does. It's hard to tell what's normal for your truck - each one is different.
Also, I sleed the anti-freeze at the fill cap, and did not smell gas, so I think thats a good sign that there is no crack in the block. I remember reading a post that said if ou smell gas in the fluid you have a cracked block.
I do sometimes smell a hint of radiator fluid in the cab however, but I don't see any fluid on the engine block.
Depends where the crack is. I have a cracked flathead that sucks down a lot of coolant, but coolant doesn't smell like gas.
Smelling coolant in the cab: could be a heater core leak, or could be just the coolant blowing from the radiator vent tube and wafting thru the holes in the firewall. Check your floorboard for drips from the heater core.
i put all new hoses on last fall, the system had all new fluid put in then
Had a bubble in the system after doing that, it ran really hot the first time I drove it after replacing hoses. I only went 1/4 mile at 25mph, but it was steaming hot. adding another 6 quarts and it ran fine
Hope it didn't crack back then.
I replaced both thermostats this spring.
You think I should take it in to be flushed? I have not done that in the 13 years I've had the truck.
What do you recommend for getting the "clean" engine
'52 and earlier used 4# caps. Not sure what a '53 would be, because it's a function of radiator design more than anything. But a 7# cap might be pushing water past the water pump bearing seals. I would think it would be obvious tho.
If you were using that much coolant and it was due to a block crack, I would really expect it to affect engine performance noticeably -- missing, stumble, hard to start, etc.
It sounds like you are either losing a lot of water, or it wasn't filled all the way until recently. Any leak that you lose a gallon of water in a week would be really obvious. You can't "burn" that much and have a decent running engine. 8BA's can trap a lot of air, is it possible you've just not had it really full after your thermostat replacement?
The other way to lose water and not see it on the floor is if the radiator cap is lifting and blowing it on the ground while you drive, like MT noted. That could be either from a bad cap or cap gasket, or because of trapped air raising the temp's. Are you going to a catch-can with the overflow? Might be worth running it into an old milk jug to see if you collect anything significant.
My flathead always puked some antifreeze out the overflow, I'd fill it full but it would spit out until antifreeze was about 1 1/2 inches below the cap, and that's where it wanted it to stay apparantly. You can put on an overflow tank to catch what comes out, and if you have the right kind of cap it should pull some back in as the engine cools as it's turned off. If anything the catch can will keep from having a puddle of toxic antifreeze that your or your neighbor's dog or cat finds tasty.
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