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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
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I got the bushing. $6.40 with tax. I will try to get this put in. If i rember right fomr last night i had a larger whole on the back of the crank. (last night was a long time ago... LOL )

I was thinking ( i know that this is not the original motor and trans) from the looks of the shaft on the old trans and the clutch. I dont belive that it was a pilot bearing in the it to start with I might be wrong i have been wrong before.

would i need to put any kind of anti sieze on it before i put it in or oil or something like that. Or should i put it in dry?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 12:44 PM
  #17  
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I'm still lucky, I have a real autoparts store (the last one locally) you just go in and say I need a pilot bushing for a big block, no problem............If I go to Autozone, they want to know if it has a 2 barrel or 3 barrel carb(they realy asked me that one time.......LOL) and does it have air, ps, bp etc etc..so I just look at these people like they have a pile of s**t on their heads and walk out...........sorry got carried away..........just drive it in, no sealer
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 01:05 PM
  #18  
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you would be surprised at what they asked me.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 01:06 PM
  #19  
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I do not do NAPA anymore. (those people in their (our store) are just Fing stupid)
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #20  
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Pilot Bushing Removal

There's an easy way to remove a pilot bushing. Find a long bolt that just fits into the pilot bushing. Put a gob of grease on two fingers and pack the bushing with that grease. Now line up the bolt with the hole in the pilot bushing and give it a whack with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create with the force of your whack will pop that baby right out.
jor
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jor
Pilot Bushing Removal

There's an easy way to remove a pilot bushing. Find a long bolt that just fits into the pilot bushing. Put a gob of grease on two fingers and pack the bushing with that grease. Now line up the bolt with the hole in the pilot bushing and give it a whack with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create with the force of your whack will pop that baby right out.
jor

I mean nothing buy this but. That almost sounds to good to be true. In my hands it would be the start to a big mess.


when putting the pilot bushing in will it bottom out when it is all the in. Or do have to have it fluch with the outer ring of crank shaft. or will it be sitting further into the crank shaft.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #22  
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I do put a dab of grease on tranny before installing. You could just put it IN bushing before installing tranny? Just a small dab to help. The bushing is actually oil impregnated..but a dab more grease helps.

I've tried the Hydraulic version of removal.........buy mine are usually destroyed to the point of that won't work. Working at a machine shop...I usually scab up a worn out tap that fits tight, then use it to "screw" the bushing out. Works great!!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 02:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
I do put a dab of grease on tranny before installing. You could just put it IN bushing before installing tranny? Just a small dab to help. The bushing is actually oil impregnated..but a dab more grease helps.

I've tried the Hydraulic version of removal.........buy mine are usually destroyed to the point of that won't work. Working at a machine shop...I usually scab up a worn out tap that fits tight, then use it to "screw" the bushing out. Works great!!

that is a good idea. I dont think my bushing is in but if it is i will try the grease, If that doesnt work i have soem old taps. I that big. I can use them.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 03:08 PM
  #24  
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You'll need something in the line of 3/4" or so, since the pilot is like 5/8 or slightly bigger.

Mine(in race car) have been soooooooooooo bad that it takes a 1 1/4" tap to get them out!!!!! Ya, the sintered iron disc in there really works hard on that bushing. I have since used a bearing instead and have two years now without issues.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 03:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
You'll need something in the line of 3/4" or so, since the pilot is like 5/8 or slightly bigger.

Mine(in race car) have been soooooooooooo bad that it takes a 1 1/4" tap to get them out!!!!! Ya, the sintered iron disc in there really works hard on that bushing. I have since used a bearing instead and have two years now without issues.

I dont have a tap that damn big....... LOL
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 04:11 PM
  #26  
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jor's got the solution on getting that bushing out. When I was doing alot of work on vehicles I used to keep old front shafts from transmissions to use for this. Pump behind the bushing with grease till it's full, put in the right size shaft in the bushing and hit with a hammer. It'll pop that bushing right out of there every time. I learned that trick from my dad when I just a kid. I've removed a bunch of bushings over the years this way and never had a problem. Of course it's always easier to tear something up than to put it back together....LOL.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 01:07 AM
  #27  
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Just an update. I did not have a bearing in my crank so i hammered the new one in with no problem.

I put the clutch in, and started to snug the bolts. I centerd the disc. and finsihed pulling them flush about a turn for each bolt in a criss cross pattern until the snugged up. Then i started to trq. them to spec. 15-20. I put them at 20. I got all of the tight in a criss cross pattern still. I got to the last bolt to and SNAP a clean break.


After cussing a little. I started to take it all back apart. I worked to so that i could drill the broke bolt out. I worked on that for awhile. I got the bolt out. Then took a tap to the threads just to make sure they are ok and clean. better for it to break now instead of under the truck.

The question that i have now is will any 5/16-18 bolt work?

I was thinking of getting a grade 8 bolt. and no lower then a grade 5.

Will that be ok or are the special bolts?

I plan on replacing them all it that happened to one the other are probly close to doing the same thing


Thanks
-Brandon-
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 08:07 AM
  #28  
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NO...you must use CLUTCH bolts!!!! They are special "SHOULDER" type bolts. If you look at them closely the thread does not go to the top. That shoulder is what locates the clutch and also if you notice the holes in flywheel are counterbored to match. This makes a much stronger shear area since there are no threads. It also locates the plate to centerline better(no slop).

Mr. Gasket makes pressure plate bolt sets....just order a set up.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:17 AM
  #29  
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I have called all around this BULL***** town and no one has a clue. I am going to order a set from summit.

Can just stick a grade 8 bolt in for now and when the new ones come in go under the truck and change them out in a criss cross fashion or will this cause me problems?

The reason i am asking is i need this truck out of my shop by this weekend. and the motor is sitting right in front of the truck waiting for the new bolts.

Thanks
-Brandon-
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:20 AM
  #30  
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you could do that, but I hope you mean roll the truck out by hand, don't fire it and drive it
 
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