Ignition Cylinder Replacement
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Ignition Cylinder Replacement
I'm trying to replace the worn ignition cylinder in my '94. I've read the other posts describing it as a 5-minute job; just turn the key to "run", press the pin in the hole, and the cylinder comes out.
I have about 2 hours invested in this "5-minute job" and still don't have it out. I have both the plastic covers off, but the lock cylinder is surrounded by a heavy steel cylinder with no holes in it. It has what appears to be two rivets on the bottom, probably holding it to the casting underneath. And it has a screw at the 7-o'clock position, about 1/2" in from the end, about where people say the hole is supposed to be. But when I remove the screw, it's a blind hole; nothing rotates inside, and pressing on the punch while turning the key doesn't do anything. Am I supposed to drill out the bottom of this hole to get to the pin? Do I cut off the rivets and try to remove the whole steel cylinder (and how do I reattach it later?) Surely I don't have the only Aerostar that's made like this.
I'd be glad to email pictures to anyone who's done this before.
pickwick
I have about 2 hours invested in this "5-minute job" and still don't have it out. I have both the plastic covers off, but the lock cylinder is surrounded by a heavy steel cylinder with no holes in it. It has what appears to be two rivets on the bottom, probably holding it to the casting underneath. And it has a screw at the 7-o'clock position, about 1/2" in from the end, about where people say the hole is supposed to be. But when I remove the screw, it's a blind hole; nothing rotates inside, and pressing on the punch while turning the key doesn't do anything. Am I supposed to drill out the bottom of this hole to get to the pin? Do I cut off the rivets and try to remove the whole steel cylinder (and how do I reattach it later?) Surely I don't have the only Aerostar that's made like this.
I'd be glad to email pictures to anyone who's done this before.
pickwick
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From: Northern California
Hmm
On my 95 Aerostar, I did the following: as Aerostarman2002 instructed and it took me 45 seconds to take out, less than 5 minutes total.
"Replacing the lock cylinder is about a five minute job.
The ignition lock cylinder can be bought at nearly any parts store. I replaced mine like 6 months ago because it was starting w/o the key, and the key was sticking in it.... I believe it was something like ten dollars.
Look on the bottom of the steering column, there should already be a hole there for a small round tool, I.E. bent metal clothes hanger... anything long enough that will fit in there... if there is no hole you just remove the bottom steering column cover via the four screws, also if tilt wheel, you unscrew the tilt lever.
find the round hole on the bottom of the lock cylinder and push up on it with your long round tool, while at the same time turning the key to the RUN position and pulling the old lock cylinder out.
The new lock cylinder should come in the RUN position, but if not just fiddle with it until it slides in. all you have to do is push it in, and it should work, and hopefully fix your problem.
You can also tek the two keys to the lock smith and have him cut the door pattern off of the old key into the new ignition key, then you wont have to have two keys!"
I hope that helps you, it should work, mine took very little time and my fiance was like wow! you got it fixed????
This is the whole posting if you like.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=164713
Yours is a 94 should not be much different than a 95. Send pictures if that don't work.
L8R
Aaron
"Replacing the lock cylinder is about a five minute job.
The ignition lock cylinder can be bought at nearly any parts store. I replaced mine like 6 months ago because it was starting w/o the key, and the key was sticking in it.... I believe it was something like ten dollars.
Look on the bottom of the steering column, there should already be a hole there for a small round tool, I.E. bent metal clothes hanger... anything long enough that will fit in there... if there is no hole you just remove the bottom steering column cover via the four screws, also if tilt wheel, you unscrew the tilt lever.
find the round hole on the bottom of the lock cylinder and push up on it with your long round tool, while at the same time turning the key to the RUN position and pulling the old lock cylinder out.
The new lock cylinder should come in the RUN position, but if not just fiddle with it until it slides in. all you have to do is push it in, and it should work, and hopefully fix your problem.
You can also tek the two keys to the lock smith and have him cut the door pattern off of the old key into the new ignition key, then you wont have to have two keys!"
I hope that helps you, it should work, mine took very little time and my fiance was like wow! you got it fixed????
This is the whole posting if you like.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=164713
Yours is a 94 should not be much different than a 95. Send pictures if that don't work.
L8R
Aaron
Last edited by Nappers; Jul 14, 2005 at 06:38 AM.
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I had a problem with this on one of my older Toyotas the key wouldn't insert into the ignition thus I couldn't start the car this presented a problem in removing the cylinder becuase the cylinders tumblars usually retract when you insert the key and there is only 1 retaining tumblar holding the cylinder in or in the Aeros has a hole with a release in it just push that in and pull the cylinder out.
Heres what I did on the car not sure if it works for the Aero since I haven't had any problems with the Aero yet.
With a defective cylinder some or all of them don't fall making pulling out the cylinder a pain. I guess you can slip in something thin like a paperclip to push all the tumblars down and put the long coat hanger into the release hole then try pulling it out.
A more aggressive method I used is I used a slide hammer or a dent puller that thing with the screw on the end and the round metal thing you slide back. I inserted the screw into the cylinder and gave it a brisk yank and it came right out.
However the gas station attendant looked at me funny when I was filling up before I got the new cylinder because I was starting my car with a regular screwdriver
.
Look at the post above and if that doesn't work try pushing the tumblars down and actuating the release with a coat hanger.
Heres what I did on the car not sure if it works for the Aero since I haven't had any problems with the Aero yet.
With a defective cylinder some or all of them don't fall making pulling out the cylinder a pain. I guess you can slip in something thin like a paperclip to push all the tumblars down and put the long coat hanger into the release hole then try pulling it out.
A more aggressive method I used is I used a slide hammer or a dent puller that thing with the screw on the end and the round metal thing you slide back. I inserted the screw into the cylinder and gave it a brisk yank and it came right out.
However the gas station attendant looked at me funny when I was filling up before I got the new cylinder because I was starting my car with a regular screwdriver
.Look at the post above and if that doesn't work try pushing the tumblars down and actuating the release with a coat hanger.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jul 14, 2005 at 06:13 PM.
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But the problem is I can't find a release hole to stick a pin in; everything seems to be covered with this heavy steel guard. I drilled out the bottom of the blind screw hole but the spring-loaded release pin wasn't at the bottom.
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Pickwick:
Private e-mail me so I can get your e-mail address and I'll send you pictures. I have done this half a dozen times (lots of Ford in the family) and it never took me more than 10 minutes. Don't drill anymore holes. Also, you can rekey the new cylinder to the old key by swapping some small pieces from the old cylinder to the new one, just so that you don't have to carry two keys.
Regards
Private e-mail me so I can get your e-mail address and I'll send you pictures. I have done this half a dozen times (lots of Ford in the family) and it never took me more than 10 minutes. Don't drill anymore holes. Also, you can rekey the new cylinder to the old key by swapping some small pieces from the old cylinder to the new one, just so that you don't have to carry two keys.
Regards
Last edited by copper_90680; Jul 18, 2005 at 11:58 AM.
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A Lock-smith once told me that even with a double-sided key that it only uses one side of the key. He said that I could take the new key and the old key and have another key made with one side the old key and one side the new key.
Then I would only have to carry one key to unlock both the doors and start it.
Jay
Then I would only have to carry one key to unlock both the doors and start it.
Jay
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Just double checked my 94 to be sure.
Put the plastic back on.
The bottom piece has 4 holes in it.
Three of them have screws in them.
Put key in ignition.
Turn key to the on position.
Stick an awl up in the fourth hole in the bottom plastic piece & apply pressure.
While pressure is being applied, pull ignition cylinder out.
Replace with new ignition & you are all set
Put the plastic back on.
The bottom piece has 4 holes in it.
Three of them have screws in them.
Put key in ignition.
Turn key to the on position.
Stick an awl up in the fourth hole in the bottom plastic piece & apply pressure.
While pressure is being applied, pull ignition cylinder out.
Replace with new ignition & you are all set
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