Hi All,

ok, been wanting to do this for a while, finnally have the time, and the nerve to do this...

I need to replace my ignition key cylinder - 1989, 3.0 - so shifter is on the floor, etc...

no access hole for the little release needle, but when I open the plastic cowl for the column, I can see it I think...

I can't remember if I need to have the key in it, or not, and what position? off, run, etc...

same question for the new one... does the key need to be in when I slide it in?

also, is that all there is to it? just depress that eye hole with? and it slides right out?

The issue I have, is that the placement of the rotation of the contacts is all screwed up - if you turn it to AUX, the radio doesn't come on, until you slowly go back on the rotation towards off... but worse - after it starts, at KOEO rest, there is a short right there, it's not so bad that it kills the engine (yet) but it kills the wipers, radio, windows... and I get "door ajar" lit on the dash...

if I very slowly rotate the key away from it's stop, sometimes it will "hold" as all is well, if I hold the key by hand, JUST off the stop rest for KOEO...

Ford DOES still make the ignition switch for this year (89) - but not the cylinder of course, which is fine, have a new aftermarket...

I want to try this first, and of course, if I have the same result, I know I have to replace the ign switch too - is that a hard job? I think I can see it in there? but what about getting to it, etc...

Thankshttp://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...ilies/wink.gif

 

Are you sure the problem is with the cylinder, and not the switch, or the linkage going to the switch?

To remove the cylinder, I think you push that little pin in, which allows you to turn the key back past the AUX position, then you should be able to pull it out.

 

not sure, actually, I thought it attached directly to the switch itself... could be the linkage for sure, but gonna try this first, being it should be easy to see if it is the culpret... but I don't want to make it so I can't re-replace it, if I swap them, and that's not the issue, which is why I wanted to be sure I wasn't gonna damage anything in pulling it out...

so, you are saying, push that pin in, and CC rotate past AUX, and it will twist out? how abut sliding the new one in then?

 

I just checked my Haynes manual, and it says for that year, you turn the key to the RUN position, then stick a 1/8" punch into the hole to push the retaining pin, and pull out the cylinder. Since this would turn the car ON, you should disconnect the battery first.

To install, position the cylinder to the RUN position and insert fully into the housing while pushing on the retaining pin.

It looks like the lock cylinder engages a pin that actuates the switch. So that is the "linkage". Somewhere between the cylinder and the switch is some slop.

 

Ignition switch is 11572.

 

To me it sounds like the switch, not the cylinder. Cylinder problems are more along the lines of: key won't turn, key requires lots of wiggling to turn, key won't go all the way in, key won't come back out, key can come out anytime, etc. If you are having problems with electrical functions, it is usually gonna be the ignition switch itself.

 

As others have said, your symptoms sound like a failing switch, which is accessed from below, left side of steering column. See this post for a picture and details that should apply.

As for replacing the Ignition Cylinder, the Haynes instructions you quoted above are correct. Unless you're swapping one cylinder for another immediately, you'll want to disconnect the battery, as the switch will be ON when you can remove the cylinder from the column. As I am in the business, I made a dummy cylinder to use to turn the switch back OFF again while servicing the original cylinder, but if you have a replacement, just yank the old one out, carefully transfer the key minder switch (white or black nylon, has a small plastic catch that you have to very gently pry up to release, then slide the switch off the cylinder, then transfer to the new cylinder in the same location), install the new one, and then rotate back to OFF.

[later edit]
I see that some of the aftermarket Ign. Cyls. now come with the key minder switch too, so you may not have to deal with transferring yours. If your cylinder came packed in a round cardboard tube, that's to protect the switch in shipment.

Let me see if I have a pic of that tool I made . . . yeah, I took a pic three years ago for a tip-of-the-month submission to our local locksmith association:

(click on image for larger)



I painted it bright green so I wouldn't leave it in a customer's car!

Anyway, you don't need this tool, you can disconnect the battery instead if you feel you're going to take more than ten minutes to swap the new cylinder in.

BTW, you can't use a screwdriver to turn OFF the switch. There's a hardened guard plate that the end of the cylinder has to go through, and it prevents a screwdriver from turning the pinion behind it. That's why these cylinders are "necked" 1/2" from the end.

 

Update...

Ok, as many thought, the key cylinder was not the issue - I swapped them, and same issue...

So, I pulled the ign switch and I think I opened a big can of worms, cuz no the slider that sits on top, is out, and a ball bearing....

the good news is, I can feel the slop in the linkage.. there is a pin that sticks out and slides when the key is turned... if I hold the key, I can feel some play in that pin... not sure if they are supossed to wiggle at all or be 100% solid...

The bad news, is it looks like I may not be able to fix this one on my own.. how do you access the linkage? - in the diagram above, all the parts are 3E something...

I wish I could see a diagram of how it all goes back together, since I have a ball bearing, the white ign switch, the black 3e691 and a little loose stem from the linkage....

Im stuck not running until this is fixed.


Thanks for all the help

 

What the ignition cylinder is turning is a gear (pinion). The gear moves a toothed bar (rack: actuator).

On older GMs and Fords (80s), there is a pot metal part that breaks that causes that. It's so common that there's a Help! part for them. I've probably replaced a couple dozen of them over the years, but that's on the older Fords & GMs with the Saginaw column.

I found a vid of a T-Bird with a newer column and someone replacing the equivalent part:
Part 1: Part 2: Part 3:
I didn't have the patience to view the whole thing, but the actuator is shown in the 2nd vid at about 2:18.

This is not a job I've done, and I've no idea if that's your problem but if you turn the key and the hooked rod down at the switch does not move almost immediately -- ie there is lost motion -- then you're going to have to take the top of the column apart and figure out why. Because it's a tilt column, there are lots of parts. The first few I did were dicey. Take lots of pictures, and I always put down a sheet over the seat and floor for the greasy parts that drop off the column or that you drop.

I hate to say this, but this is honestly one of those times when a JY column might be a better solution. I'd try to fix the column, but then I've been into a few of these. If you're the patient, methodical sort, I'm sure you can fix it. But if not, a $50 column can look awfully tempting. Of course, if yours was a later model with the airbag, dealing with clockspring issues would have me leaning back to fixing existing, but since yours is simpler . . .

I had one fellow with an F250 with a broken actuator, he could turn the key but it wouldn't unlock the shifter so he couldn't get it out of Park. He yanked and yanked and finally broke the column and drove it to us. I had to sell him $300 of parts to fix that one. Towing it would have been a lot cheaper!

 

E63Z 3E723-A msrp $23.02 still available from Ford, these tend to wear out over time. If memory serves me right, the only way to replace it is to tear the steering wheel off and work your way down to them like Al has posted.

This is one of those instances where the parts are cheap, but the labor will kill you.

 

Ah, yes, the . I don't know if the Dorman part is any worse than the Ford part, but it certainly looks like the part that will give you grief.

Click here for larger


I've never (AFAICR) replaced one on an Aero, but the similar part is very prone to breakage in the older columns.

If you do get your old one out, I'd like to see a picture of where it broke or wore out.

 

when is the labor any cheaper than the part? lol

The video is showing something a bit newer, but same idea - yeah, sort of scares me to tear down the whole wheel like that, but might be the only way...

being an 89, it was pre-air bags, pre clock springs, etc... but it's all inside that gray housing... ford should have thought this through a lot better - I just saw something similar in a Chrysler car/neon/PT crusier - and all they had to do was take the top and bottom plastic shrouds off to gain full access... it was in a Dorman video actually... three pieces - key cyl, attenuator, and switch... 20 min repair...

well, at least now I understand how easy it is to steal a car... lucky that MOST people look at my old van and say "why would I want that?" and keep walking... but all of us on here Know better :-)

I think I'm going to try to replace the ign switch first, and maybe between that, and a new key cylinder, it will fix the problem - If not, anyone have a tear down guide to the steering wheel - my books don't have this info exactly...

if I get it torn down, I will make a video on how and what I did, and post it... and/or photos

 

ok, new problem -

got my new ign switch ready to go in...

looked under the column, and see that there are the 2 screws/bolts I need to have access too, but the plastic cover is in the way....

is there an easy way to move it out of the way 3 inches or so, or how does one remove it? it only opens from the bottom (has trap door type deal)

I hope I don't have to pull the wheel after all... I see it is held down by the key lock, but thats easy now to pull back out...

don't want to break it, or drill holes for those torx access...

any ideas? the heads of the screws sit right next to the plastic... so, wondering how I got it out to begin with? - well it fell apart in my hands when I went to pull the harness off...

so close but so far lol

Anyone?

Thanks

 

The plastic clamshell that wraps the column between the wheel and the dash? Screws in recessed holes in the bottom half. Long thin Philips screwdriver.

If it's not that, I need a picture.

 

There is the wheel, then like a hard plastic collar, and then the longer softer plastic housing...

Yes, 4 screws in bottom, but only opens "trap door" - it doesn't separate into 2 halves -

the one side is secured via the turn signal switch level, and the other side with the key cylinder...

my guess is that the center collar does something to help secure the top of that piece... maybe more screws under?

This is the 1st gen aero, with the shifter on the floor, which I love BTW...

Thanks,