As many of you have heard, the loose tentioner on the 4.0 SOHC Ford Explorer is the cause for an engine sound that sounds like a Diesel engine and I will tell you how to fix it. The dealer had a recall to fix the problem for several years ago and due to the fact I was overseas during these years I was not able to fix the problem. When I came back from Europe I was told by my local dealer "Sorry but you time to fix the problem has expired". I did asked the parts department how much the parts cost and was told $52.00 or so.
I did some research through this forum and found out the tentioner could be changed through an access on top of the engine--this is true.
I bought the kit that contains the gaskets for the upper and lower plastic manifolds, one small plug, a plastic pencil looking part, the tentioner and the tentioner gasket.
Once I saw the tentioner I new I did not have to remove the timing chain cover and everything else that goes in front of it.
The process of replacing the chain tensioner is relatively simple; however, there are some tools you must have to complete the job.
The most important tools are a T-30 Torx bit, a 1-1/8 deep socket or open end wrench and a torque wrench. It will not hurt if you have set of Torx bits and a set of deep sockets that go up to the 1-1/8.
To start, disconnect the battery negative cable and remove the upper cover for the intake manifold--four small screws and the speed control cable clip.
Remove the cruise control and accelerator bracket screw--two. the accelerator cable is removed by turning the butterfly assembly clockwise and slipping the end of the cable out. the speed control is removed by snapping the plastic clip UP.
remove the intake rubber hose coming from the filter. remove and remember to reconnect all vacuum hoses. Remove upper intake and lower intake manifolds. replace the old tentioner located next to the thermostat housing on the right hand side as you face the engine from the radiator. all you will see is a 1-1/8 head. replace it with the new one--new one is about 1-1/4 longer. remove the plug next to the tentioner and insert the plastic part that comes with the kit and place the new plug till it is tight. I had to remove the temperature sending units because I did not have a 1-1/8 open end wrench and had to use a deep socket. Once you have replace the plug--next to the tentioner--and the tentioner itself, place the new lower intake gaskets in place and torque to the appropriate torque as specified in the chilton's book and follow torque sequence.
do the same with the upper intake and ensure all vacuums are connected. I forgot the one below the intake in the front and the engine ran real rough as well as the check engine light came on--after connecting it, it was gone--disconnect the battery if the light comes on to reset during the time the vacuum is being connected.
I took some notes as I was disconnecting items to ensure all was connected as when I started and as you can see I still forgot one vacuum hose--this hose came from the intake right after it left the air cleaner.
Torque specs are on the chilton's book; however, if you would like me to post them on the forum please e-mail me at marwin13@yahoo.com
Hope this helps with clarifying the tentioner is not like other tentioners found in engines that require the removal of all that is in front of the engine before you can access it. Also, I am not a certified mechanic; but a mechanic who likes to assist those who want to help themselves. Yours truly--Cid

 

Thats good info to know Cid. I hope I never need to use it!

 

This is good info, thanks for taking the time to post .

 

What is the Part # for the whole "Kit" ??

How much was it ??