bronco won't start
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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bronco won't start
Well, the other day my ignition switch stopped working, it won't start the truck. All the accessories will come on when I turn the key, but in order to start my truck, I have to jump the starter with a screwdriver. At first I though there was a problem with the switch itself, I no longer have to use the key lock button to remove my key, and if I turn the key counterclockwise to turn the radio on, it won't turn off unless I turn the key all the way to the start position and then turn it off. From the searches I've done here, it sounds more like the actuator wore out. As this will be my first time replacing this part, I was hoping I might be able to get some tips from those of you that have done this before.
First of all, how does the column come apart, there are a few screws on the bottom towards the dash, but those are all I can find. Do I have to remove the steering wheel?
Thanks guys.
First of all, how does the column come apart, there are a few screws on the bottom towards the dash, but those are all I can find. Do I have to remove the steering wheel?
Thanks guys.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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Did you try replacing the starter relay yet? It sounds as if your symptoms may warrant this. I've had to replace it twice on my '88 once on my '90 and once on my dad's "93 F-350. It's cheap and easy, so make sure that's not it before tearing your truck apart!!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
You have accurately described the classic symptoms of a broken actuator. You will have to remove the weeel to repair this one. I am guessing that you have tilt steering. There are several posts that describe the process of repairing. It is not that big of a job once you decide to start. The part is around 15.00 at Ford.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for the info. I've tried searching but haven't been able to find anything specifically on replacing the actuator yet. But I'll keep looking. But, no, I don't have tilt steering. From what I've been reading, that should make it a bit easier, right?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Remove the under dash cover around the steering shaft and you will see two large bolts that hold the steering column up. One you remove those, be carefull NOT to pull down too hard on the steering wheel or it will bend some of the linkage and your shift lever, (If you have an auto tranny), will be off a bit and it will still work but it won't feel right anymore shifting in and out of park. (I made that mistake). The actuator is on top of the column and you can unplug the harness and remove the actuator.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
There isn't anything to the actual "Key Switch" other than it moves a rod that connects to the main "Switch" or actuator on the top/foward of the steering column. Now if someone else meant another part by "actuator", please chime in so we can help out. GMAN88?????
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Houston
When you put her in reverse, does you backup lights come on. If not then your neutral switch could be out located on your transmition, and this could cause your truck not to start too.
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Freshman User
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yeah, all my lights and accessories still work fine, other than needing to be adjusted, the neutral safety switch is functional. I'd be surprised at this point if it wasn't the actuator. Thanks everyone for your help. I'm not actually going to be able to take care of this for the next few days tho, as I work just about every day, so anymore tips on replacement would be greatly appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Tip - Take your time. Get it done right the first time.
Being in a hurry and not paying attention can cause wires to get piched from the harness then sparks fly and then smoke and then you get yelled at for filling the garage with smoke then....oh oops. Umm yes, just take your time and don't rush. You should be able to get it done in about 30 to 45 minutes. Not hard just alot of crap to get through.
Being in a hurry and not paying attention can cause wires to get piched from the harness then sparks fly and then smoke and then you get yelled at for filling the garage with smoke then....oh oops. Umm yes, just take your time and don't rush. You should be able to get it done in about 30 to 45 minutes. Not hard just alot of crap to get through.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
The actuator is a pot metal piece of aluminum that runs off the ignition lock cylinder drive gear and connects to the actuator rod that connects to the ignition switch. The tilt steering is more prone to breaking due to the nature of the tilt mechanism, the actuator is a half horseshoe that easily breaks. It is possible that the gear portion of yours is bad or the gear on the ignition lock cylinder. You may want to check the mounting bolts of the ignition switch itself and watch the action of the rod to switch, you should be able to see this along the mid to lower portion of the column. My setup is a tilt wheel with a manual tranny. The repair was not all that bad for me and it was very nice to have everything working again.
What year is the Bronco and is it automatic transmission? Does the key spring back when moved to the start position and released?
What year is the Bronco and is it automatic transmission? Does the key spring back when moved to the start position and released?
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Freshman User
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I've removed the lower portion of the steering column, and when I turn the key the, actuator rod moves, but no action from the ignition, planning on eventually installing a remote ignition system, with keyless entry, but for now planning on a push-button starter switch. Does anyone happen to know the wiring code for the steeing column of an '89 bronc, or should I try the dealership?
Of course, it's an '89, manual trans. solid steering column(no tilt)
Of course, it's an '89, manual trans. solid steering column(no tilt)
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
If the rod is moving, and you have removed the lower half of the column, then just remove the two large bolts at the base of the column that go into the dash frame. This will allow the column to drop down and you can get access to the switch that does the work at the top of the column. 1 large harness, two screws.