73 F-250 camper special 2wd 390 in it. The seal is leaking where the driveline goes into the rear diff.
How tuff is it to get that seal out (any special tools) or is it a simple drop the ujoint and pull a few things out of the way and you have it or what?
Thanks for any help.

 

How bad is it leaking? If it isn't dripping leave it alone...

Otherwise it gets complicated, involving bearing preloads etc.

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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jan-03 AT 06:55 PM (EST)]A 1973 F250 uses a Dana60 rear axle. Replacing the pinion seal is as simple as pulling the yoke off and replacing the seal. Use a speedy-sleeve on the yoke if it has a bad groove from the old seal.

Torque1st is correct in that pinion bearing preload is important, but your D60 axle uses shims (instead of a crush sleeve) to set the preload. As long as you do not take out any shims and put everything back in the exact same order, there will be no change to the preload setting. Be sure to torque the pinion nut properly (~200 ft-lb)!

Art
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=3467&.jpg

 

 

I have the same problem but it is on a Ford 9in. Is it as simple, or do I need to worry about preloads. I have been searching for a manual to do it, but have come up short.

 

The 9 inch is as easy if not easier. simply remove the drive shaft, pull the pinion yolk out, remove the old seal and tap the new on in. In fact, I am going to do one tonight, I can snap a couple of pics if you would like.

 

You do need to be careful on reassembly. You don't want to overtighten the pinion nut. But overall, like witty73 said, its a simple repair.
Taking it apart is easier if you have an impact wrench to take the pinion nut off, BUT don't use it to tighten the nut on reinstallation.
It is a good idea to use a new pinion nut because they come coated with sealer but its not mandatory. If you reuse the old nut get a tube of Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer. Coat the splines of the pinion and pinion yoke with the sealer, you don't need to go overboard.
Put a coating of gease on the lip of the new pinion seal and also on the pinion yoke where the seal rides.
I like to put a thin coat of sealer on the od of the seal too.
Once you install the seal and the yoke, take the pinion nut, put a coating of sealer on the flange and also on the threads and install.
This is where you can't get carried away with tightening. Snug the pinion nut down. The torque on the nut is 200 ft/lbs but I wouldn't go that tight. I see nothing wrong with stopping at 150. If you don't have a torque wrench just tighten it good 'n tight.
The thing you DON'T want to do is overtighten. If you do you will collapse the crush sleeve more and change the bearing preload.
Its a simple repair, you just need to be a little careful on reassembly. Once you've done one, you'll realize, "yeah, that was simple".
Good luck.

Also, check the pinion flange where the seal rides for wear. If its worn you can get new ones from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard.

 

Thanks for the heads up guys. I have to take the kids to the pool and then it is TRUCK time! I will let you know how it goes.

 

I finally got to replace my seals yesterday. It was pretty easy! I went a step further and replaced the gasket between the diff housing. Taking the bell off the housing was a bigger job than I thought it was. I had just put my axles back in and found out I had to take them back out to do it. I am not sure anyone has ever taken it apart before. It was stuck on there pretty good. I also replaced my U-joints while I was at it. It was a lessen in patience but I finally got it done. I ended up putting them in where I can't lube them again unless I take the end clamps off. I won't make that mistake again. I hope to get pics up of the girl soon.

 

Congratulations...

 

Just a thought for future reference. If the seals start seeping again anytime soon look for a clogged vent.

 

Are you talking about the vent on the axle housing? I installed a new line on that today. I am trying to figure the best place to mount in on the bed or the rail somewhere. That side is starting to get a little cluttered with all the brake lines, fuel lines, and wiring. Do you know where it was originally installed to?

 

Here is the stock location for the rear axle vent line. Also, the vent is actually a pretty small hole and clogs up easily. You should unscrew the vent, take a drill bit and run it through the vent to be sure it is clear.

 

Mikeo0o0o0,
There's something missing, like rust and mud!

 

Naw, its just hidding under all that black paint.