Yes. I know it should be doing better. This post is thick with that kind of reparte'.
But nobody seems to be able to "stear" me in any direction. I'm not gonna just start throwing money at it.
Exhaust mod this . . .
Super Diablo Chip that . . .
Bigger throttle body over here . . .
Throw me a bone you posting magnates. What is your best opinion on what might be wrong?

 

Do I start with a 4.30 rear end?
Open up the exhaust?
Will removing the cat screw up the computer?
I want it to do what it should be doing. Right now I feel like I'm driving a "Rolls Kinardly"
[I]Rolls down one hill . . . Kinardly get up the next!

 

That will help - no doubt.
Maybe... a little help.
No, it won't even know it's gone.


I would suggest you let a good tech (hard to find) hook it up for diagnostics and do a drivability test while under load - preferrably with your Trailer. Maybe he can see something going on that just won't throw a code.

 

Hard to diagnose a rig from cyber space, based on the accumulated centuries of experience here from some of these guys, I'd guess their advice was dead on.

Now, I hate to throw a wrench in the kitty but I've driven a V-10 that is owned by my bro in law, it's a dog, I mean a 3.8 Taurus engine in a F-350 dually could whoop it. But I believe the Y-pipe is congesticated, and have told my BIL the same. Except he doesn't care, as he drives the 'hotrod V-10'. So his guys drive this one and the other 4 or 5 V-10 F-series he owns. There was a fairly big discrepancy among some of the early V-10's in power. Fred is a smart dude, and he's been a giant help to many of us. I'd throw my cards in with him and try a couple of his suggestions. Couldn't hurt ? Ken

 

check your email. the photo is to big and i'm a dumbie when it comes making some thing smaller so i can attach it. 25% grade trucks over 4 tons excluded

 

live2hunt,

I would not spend money on any aftermarket power makers at this point. You need to unleash the stock power first. If it were mine I would:

1) Change the fuel filter.
2) Change the cat if you are reasonably sure it is plugging. I've had this happen to one vehicle, and once it started plugging it got progressively worse in a hurry. Do you feel you have lost any power or acceleration recently even when not towing? Hopefully others will chime in with their experience on clogged cats.
3) Swap your R&P to 4.30's. If your motor is performing properly, this will be your best bang for the buck IMHO. For about $1K you will get ten times the performance increase a $400 tuner will get you.

 

Ken04, are you saying that all V-10s are dogs, or just that your bro-in-law drives a lemon?

 

Live2hunt, by the title that you have we share common interests, now we have steep passes here in MT, but I have to agree with alot of the fellas in the above posts, I have a 2000 v-10 and by no means is it a slouch, I work in a 130 vehicle Vehicle Maintenance section, and I would most definitely find a good technician, and go from there, other cheap mods are definitely the Y-pipe, I changed mine and went to a flowmaster exhaust and the difference was awesome, a cat would be my next on the list, check fuel pump pressure, filter and go from there.

 

One of my BIL's V-10 out of 5 or 6 now is doggier than the others, there have been a few people through here have remarked to similar opinions. My guess is the Y-pipe or maybe the ECM program, his was doggy from new. Consider dog-like in comparison to another V-10, not to other engines.

 

Sorry, was taking it the wrong way.

 

I checked everything I could possibly check on mine last nite. Vacuum hoses, MAF, PCV valve, all looks perfect. I even started it up and squirted DW-40 around all the TB gaskets, hoses, brake booster, hoping I would find a vacuum leak or something, but nada. It runs perfect. I also disconnected the battery for approx. 1 hour, and reconnected it. Still no error codes from the PCM either. Guess I'll try some of the way over priced high end gas in it and see what happens. I am going on a 3.5 hour trip Saturday morning towing the same boat again. Some of the hills will be not as bad as the one I mentioned in a previous post but I should be able to test it for detonation whenever I down shift.

 

Hope you find out what it is. I know how you must feel. Been there, done that. They have some good Engine shops in California.

 

Talk to Fredvon4 about a re-flash of the ECM. I'm understanding that there are 'hot codes' and other codes. Much like what a chip does, but it's from Ford. May be worth a look into ?

Good luck, and ya gotta let that V-10 rev baby, it does take a while to get used to it, but it's a revvin son of a beyatch. After a while you'll start jones'in for it, it's sweet, sweet music.

 

You mean to tell me that the computer won't know the cat is gone?! I assume you leave all the O2's?
As far as a diagnostics or good "tech" . . . I'm in Cheyenne, WY, not a lot to choose from. I called evary big shop in town, including the Ford dealer, and all of them seemed to want to know "Any warning lights come on?". [/I][/B]Just hook it up and shut up!
Frustrationg. Going out again this weekend with the same camper/ATV load combo. I'll see what happens.

 

I am out of town on business and do not have the luxury of good broad band connections. Can't devote a lot of log on time to this answer

Live2hunt

Sorry to set your hair on fire and add to your frustration. You are right you have a problem. First, the old skool V10 is a very capable motor but in some configurations is already limited. I still don't have a great idea what your truck is weight wise.

So assuming a full boat crew cab 4x4 long bed with 3.73:1 gears and an early design E4OD/4R100 trans trying to haul 10,000lbs up and down the modest hills of Wyoming and a driver decidedly unhappy with the performance asking questions.

Yes sir there are some simple things you can do to gain some power.

Get a good set of radial designed "E" series tires no bigger than 30.6 inches tall (265s) but preferably done in 225-235 range. Smaller diameter tires is a cheap way to change effective gear ratio.

Get a competent exhaust shop to hack out the factory "Y" pipe, inspect the CAT for plugging (very rare) and fab in a decent 2 1/2" two to one collector to the cat. There is not much HP to be gained behind the cat unless you want to do a true dual exhaust system.

Since you don't say empty and normal cruise is a problem. Then lets assume you just need more ponies for the heavy tow in the hills. Either way you look at it you need to be down a gear or two and between 3600 and 5000rpm. Up there the old skool V10 needs some better air charge so this is the one time I recommend looking at one of the cold air kits.

As suggested earlier get a competent Ford tech to run a drivability diagnostic.

The age of the truck suggests that perhaps the IAC or other vacuum operated items my be weak or failing. some of the rubber "ell" connectors are notorious for deteriorating and causing all sorts of air leak grief. Most of the time they will manifest the problem with poor or uneven idle.

Don't know you economic situation but before sinking a ton of cash into the beast look into the extraordinary deals right now on 2001-2005 V10 powered trucks.

RPM wise... remember this is an overhead cammed motor and she pulls strong stable torque from 1900 rpm all the way to 4800rpm before going flat. The down side is screaming up a LONG steep hill at 4800 is nerve wracking for some folks and certainly costs a lot of fuel.

You folks with noticeable pingnig... if the PCM is not retarding and eliminating the ping there is a problem. I use mid grade 89 octane to delay the retard but there is absolutely no benefit from 90 or higher other than we accept you generous contribution to the economy.

Live2hunt.... ask very stern question of the trany re-builder about brand and type of trans fluid. I seem to remember a fellow a few years ago that the rebuild shop put straight no brand ATF in and it destroyed the 4R100. That trans is very picky about what TYPE fluid is used.