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I had the same problem in my '69. I assume that you're talking about the rear tank, 'cuz the behind the seat tank is easy to siphon. The in-bed tank has too long a filler hose to jam a siphon hose into, especially where it goes over the frame rail (it's really pinched there). My '70 has a connection with hose clamps right before it goes over the frame rail and if you take that off you can jam a siphon hose into the tank. My '69 doesn't have that connection and the only thing I can think of there is to take off the gravel pan over the tank, and undo the filler hose and then siphon. I'm wondering if you need to drop the tank, though, and if the gas line and sender have enough slack to remain in place (while the tank is dropped), or if they need to be dissconnected also. My bad gas went away when I picked up my "new" truck in Oregon and went sight-seeing with my girlfriend on the way home to Wisconsin. We side-tracked to see a ghost town in Montana, and the ghost town was 10 miles up an old logging road into the mountains. The road turned into a deeply-rutted gravel track at about a 40 degree incline that I had no business being on (having only 2wd) and I tore out the rear filler hose and all the bad gas leaked out. Now I just need to replace that filler hose.
Duh, if you're smarter than me you'll do what 4cammer says. Sheesh, I totally forgot about that 'cuz I'm hung up on my ruptured filler hose. 4cammer, can I loosen my tank enough to get a new filler hose in there without taking out the sender and disconnecting the fuel line after I take the gravel pan off?
I didn't think it would be too hard, but before I take the drive to the farm I just wanted to make sure there was no tricks I was going to run into. Is there anything I can put through the tank to clean anything that may be in there for whatever reason?
Rick
gregorri, if yo are worried about the tank yo canremove it , take it to a radiator shop, have it boiled and coated inside. most radiator shops will do this and it is supposed to remove any rust and seal the tank. not sure on the price but it works. been awhile since ive had it done.
knight , ive found that its usually easier to take the bed off rather than drop a frame mounted tank with gas in it. there's usually only about 8 bolts and a few screws attaching the bed and its convienient to have the tank stil mounted while you work on it. i only say this through experience. some others may have a better way but this has been alot quicker and easier for me in the past.
We had a reader that had a great suggestion the last time this came up. He says to put a hose in the filler neck into the tank, place a second hose through the neck and duck tape it closed. Then blow compressed air into the second hose and this starts a syphon like action with the other hose.
The old gas is big S T I N K Y so don't wear anything that you can't throw away if you get it on you. Once you get most of the old gas out, 5-10 gallons of fresh should mix with it and you can burn it out.
I like that idea better than working under the truck only because of the skunk funk of the old gas.
i get a kick out of old gas. i have a 69 that sat for 4 years with half tank left in it. fired it up a week ago and ran the gas out. but i did put 2 gallons of cleaner and octane boost in it so that i did not carmel the carb and cylinders. to my rememberance in the old days we use to get bad gass all the time. there was no thing as octane bosters or tank carb cleaners. it was recomended by the ford manufactures in them days to run a tank of lower octane through every once in a while, to get a coating.
i like the idea of a positive vacume to purge the fuel. nice idea jowilker
save your fuel and put it in your lawnmower.