I dont think those bolts are grade 8. Usually grade fasteners are reserved for applications where both the tensile and shear forces are higher than they would be on the one you broke.

Also.....after you soak them with the PB....go like 1/4 turn left then re tighten just a bit.....and keep working the bolts like that until they come out. After you get it out if it aint too boogered up clean it up like you said on the wheel, but first chase the threads on the block with either a store bought or homemade thread chaser.....and yes I would use the anti seize.

 

I'm gonna get new bolts from ford, since they are a bit different in length and thread depth (Just the 4 that are near the jackets). Cleaning them up may lead to other problems later, so for the couple of bucks, I'll go new. I also need to replace the Ford-only heater core to water pump adapter that runs to the lower pump input, since the hose is old and is pressed onto the adapter pipe. I don't know if you guys are cutting the pipe and sliding on the hose, but I'm afraid it will leak without a lip. The adapter routes the heater hose around the alternator, and is ford only. Bought a new t-stat housing ($10.00). I don't mind buying all new parts since I'm saving so much on labor. Bought the new timing gears/chain since I had to remove the cover to get out the busted pump bolt. Funny, the local shop said "Passenger side water pump bolt?". Got the broken bolt out by running a nut all the way to the block, then running a second nut tight against the first, and use a wrench on the nut against the block to back it out. If the bolt breaks cleanly at the point where the threads stop, you will just have enough to do this. If not, you may need to weld a nut to the bolt to get it out. I measured 1/2" sticking out.....just enough thread for 2 nuts. Soak the crap out of the bolts, and be patient. Since it may be a day or two before the rest of my parts are in, I'm soaking all the bolt holes prior to reinstallation, then blowing out the holes and covering all bolts with never-sieze.

 

You're right, not grade 8, but sure look like it. And about 1/8" shorter than standard, and deeper threads. Just enought to make you worry about cracking the head or something with any other bolt. Why take the chance?

JD

 

The original water pump bolts from ford is no longer available. Had to use retrofit. The job went well. The one broke bolt on the passenger side came out with using a double nut, pb blaster, and some patience. Unfortunately, I put in a high volume pump, and caused it to start overheating (never a problem before). After several posts, phone calls, many discussions, and a tarot card reading, I decided to pull the hi-flow, and go back to stock, since nothing else was working. Problem solved. My advice - DON"T USE THE HI FLOW PUMPS ON YOUR TRUCK! It doesn't appear as though the application is appropriate.